http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Bariloche#
Date 41 9 Dec 2008 El Chalten
Patagonia Adventura picked me up at 8:10a.m. The bus went to pier and took picture en route. The sky had nothing but blue colour. The Torre & Fitz Roy were clearly seen. I arrived at the pier at 9:45a.m. The boat was modern, comfortable and deluxe.
The cruise was about 40 minutes. I appreciated the wonderful view of Glacier Viedma. My boat was the only one there and was tranquil in such a beautiful Viedma Lake. Although Glacier Viedma was less famous than Perito Moreno Glacier, I could see the whole glacier now. It seemed that it belonged to me only.
I landed at 11:00 a.m. and walked on rocky surface for 30 minutes. I changed the crampon and walked on the glacier. It was not difficult for me as it was not the first time. The ice-trek used crampon without ice axe and helmet.
We walked along a gentle slope without difficulty. When I came close to crevasse, I was advised to stop. I had reached the highest point after 30 minutes and advised to turn back. It was too short and I felt being cheated as I had walked 7 days on the glacier in Pakistan.
The guide got some fresh ice and champagne for us to taste. They felt excited. I thought they were native. I went back to shore at 2:00 p.m. and waited until 3:00p.m to return.
Date 42 10 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I ate simple bread as breakfast and left 7:45a.m. The walking distance was 25km and I estimated that I needed to walk for 10 hours.
I arrived at the trailhead at 8:00a.m. The first part was gentle uphill and went under forest. The trail was well-maintained and the view was clear after 30 minutes. I could see panoramic view of El Chalten town. I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:30 a.m. I could see the first view of Ritz Roy, Poincenot & Co-Torre that were higher than 3000m. Two trekkers overtook me at this point. I walked downhill to grassland and along the riverbank.
The sky had nothing but emerald blue. Ritz Roy was in the front ahead. I walked toward the destination step by step. I met some campers who returned and I arrived at Poincenot Campsite at 11:00 a.m. My target was to Laguna De Los Tres by 12:30 a.m.
I passed over the Rio Blanco and saw Camp Rio Blanco. The trail was along scree slope. There was signage on the way and it was easy to follow. I was so tired as I had already walked for 5 hours. The tip of Ritz Roy was appeared at 12:00a.m. and it rose above slowly in my eye.
After climbing scree slope, it was terminal moraine that was not new for me. When I climbed over the moraine, the Laguna De Los Tres came into my eye. The lake was frozen with emerald blue water. It was like a sapphire! The tarn & and moraine were usually gray colour with scatter icebergs. Now it was frozen completely and was the most beautiful one ever seen. Although the lake was small, it was right in front of the Ritz Roy whose image was reflected in the surface. The scenery was stunning.
I took lunch (Tomato & bread) at the lakeshore and climbed up to terminal moraine later. The view was much better on the top and returned at 1:45 p.m. It was rest day tomorrow and I walked slowing. I arrived at 6:00p.m. after 10 hours' walk. I took dinner($35) menu lamb. It was delicious. The tour of El Chalten was finished.
Date 43 11 Dec 2008 El Chalten ~ Bariloche
I would take the bus "Marga" to Bariloche (36hr). The trip to Patagonia was end. The first time I saw it was the brand "Patagonia" which was an expansive sports wear brand in Hong Kong. Moreover, I had also seen the scenery of Patagonia from the documentary in National Geography Channel. My brain was embedded in enormous picture of it. Now, I came to there to see. The dream came true!
Patagonia was the southern part of South America(Argentina and Chile). I had visited the eastern part, Peninsula Valdes. I was amazed to see unexpected 10 giant Southern Right whale in a single cruise. Elephant seals and Orca were also seen there. The temperate grassland was great from Puerto Madryn to Ushuaia. The same grassland feature could last for 1000km. Ushuaia was the most southern city of Argentina and it was also the end of road from Alaska. The bus ferry crossing Strait of Magellan was leant in school time and it was very meaningful to see it 30 years later.
5 days-trek-Torres del Paine was the highlight of Patagonia. I thought only a few Hong Kong people could manage it. It was not the reason of strength, but the time constraint and the information required. The most memorable day was that I walked for 14 hours with my 18kg load. I needed to use your own strength to climb in order to see the Torres!
El Calafate was just a traditional tourist city. Moreno Glacier was famous and it might be more tourists visiting it. I thought Viedma Glacier was more beautiful.
The 4-days trip in El Chalten was the last stop in Patagonia. The Ritz Roy was equally attractive as the Torres Del Paine & the Yosemite Half-dome. I needed to walk 10 hours to see it.
The bus left El Chalten at 23:00p.m. and it was a classical one. I prepared some food to eat it the bus and it was full.
Date 44 12 Dec 2008 On the bus to Bariloche
All day was in the bus. It was uncomfortable as it was hot and stuffy. It was boring and tiring. The bus passed through Rio Mayo, Esquel and El Bolson. I took tea stop on the way.
Date 45 13 Dec 2008 Bariloche
I arrived at Bariloche at 8:40 a.m. after 32 hours bus-ride. The bus station was not in downtown. I went to Tourist Information to get some maps. However, there was no one on duty. I went to the local bus station to take route no. 20 ($1.7). I walked 10 minutes to Perikos Hostel after taking off in town centre. The bed cost $40 including breakfast. The room was spacious and the bathroom was very modern.
I decided to join rafting by "Patagonia Rafting" ($280) after consulting hostel manager. Moreover, the Club Andino advised me to a 3-days trek to Cerro Catedral & Tres Reyes. They said that there was no need to make reservation.
As the hostel was vacant in the afternoon, I uploaded some photos into my facebook. The speed was extremely slow. It took 2 hours to upload 7 photos!
Date 46 14 Dec 2008 Bariloche
The hostel room was mixed sex in Argentina and I was the king and slept with three queens. One girl was dream lady. Foreign girl was normally young and more than 40% was beautiful. Hong Kong travellers were more mature and they had intrinsic beauty only. If they were beautiful, they would not go there. I slept very well and waked-up at 7:00a.m. Although the breakfast was simple bread only, the drink was unlimited. I was required to clean the dish myself after use.
Patagonia Rafting picked up at 9:30a.m. with three more ladies from the same hostel. One was very beautiful. The van speed was 80~90 km/hr in the highway and 50km/hr in gravel road. The scenery was fascinating on the way. However, the van did not have photo stop.
We arrived at the base camp at 12:00a.m. It was an open grassland near the river bank and was surrounded by mountains. We changed the rafting equipment after brunch. 15-minutes drive was needed to the starting point.
I was taught some rafting safety and technique on land. In fact, I learnt it before. This river was class III. We had 11 people and were divided into two boats. I was in the advanced one.
The flow of the first 15 minutes was slow and the water temperature was about 15oC. It was very comfortable under warm some sunlight. The rapid was not great and I had no difficulty in it. 4 people were dropped off in a great rapid. Two (including me) were safely stayed in the boat. We swam into the water in the middle section. It was the first time and very funny. The rafting ended after 2 hours when we arrived at the Chile border.
The van drove us back to camp site at 3:00p.m. We took a BBQ lunch and I ate a lot of meat. I left campsite at 5:00 p.m. and back to hostel at 6:50p.m. $280 was value for money.
The rafting river name : Manso River (Class III)
Length : 12km, 2hr
Distance from Bariloche : 118km, 2 hr
Date 47 15 Dec 2008 Refugio Frey
I stored up some luggage in Hostel in the morning and left at 8:40a.m. I arrived at the bus station at 9:00a.m in order to catch the bus at 9:15a.m. However, the schedule had changed into 10:10a.m. Anyway, I got on bus at 10:10 and arrived at the Catedral bus terminal at 10:40a.m. Catedral was a sky resort in winter but it was cool now.
The first part of the trail was gentle slope and passed through forest. When I went to the back side of the mountain, I walked along river Van Titter. This part was not difficult to walk. I came to Piedritas Camp after crossing a river junction. The path was rocky and steeper in the following. I could see some snow in opposite mountain slope. I arrived at the Refugio Frey at 4:10 p.m. It was only 5 hours and not too bad. The refugio was primitive and dirty. One bed cost $30, $25 for a dinner & $18 for a breakfast.
There was some snow outside the refugio and snow line was about 1700m. The map showed that I needed to climb two steep passes tomorrow. I was surprised that it was so demanding.
The refugio was very small and only a few people stayed tonight. Local people were mainly camped outside. Dinner was spaghetti only while others prepared their food themselves. Pizza was only $35. It was free in entering this park as well as camping. However, the living condition was primitive and no shower facility. I strolled along the lakeside after dinner. It was covered by deep snow.
Date 48 16 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I waked up at 6:20 a.m. and took breakfast at 7:15a.m. The breakfast ($18) was chocolate+3 breads. The weather was excellent. The sky was emerald blue and I could see the mirror image of snow-capped mountain in the water surface of lake.
I left at 8:00a.m. and walked along the Laguna Tonchek. It seemed that it was very small but it took half an hour. Catedral mountain was closer and closer. It was similar to cathedral and the sharp hill attracted many climbers from the world. The blue sky was scattered with cirrus cloud.
I hiked uphill after passing the lake. More snow was formed on this slope. I could see Laguna Schmool at 9:10 a.m. It was a very small lake and part of the surface was frozen. Moreover, it was surrounded by snowy slope. I was surprised to see this amazing scenery. I was the only person there and it was completely silent. All I could hear was my breathing. I hopped over boulders and went to various positions to take photos. I could also look back to the Refugio Frey.
Although it was a heaven, I had to carry on along the snowy slope. The slope was steep and slippery. I was required to put extra attention to every step. If I slide down to the lake, no one would help me. More rocky and steep were near the top. I needed to climb in last part in order to reach the top at 10:00a.m.
I took a rest on the top to appreciate the surrounding area. There was various shapes of rocks. I could see a small glacier when I crossed the pass. There was a path junction that one was back to Catedral and the other was San Martin Refugio.
The downhill road was a very steep scree slope. Some part was about 80 degree. I could not walk and just slide down. It was very difficult to slide down the plain (1 hours) at 11:00 a.m. I took the early lunch on a boulder. The following part was easy route under the forest. I washed my leg and took a shower in the stream. The water temperature was so cool that I sank into water for 20 second only each time. It was because there was no shower facility in the refugio.
I hiked uphill again after an hour in the plain. The slope changed from gentle, steep to snowy & rocky. The last part was almost vertical and I needed to use every once of energy to overcome it. It took me 2 hours from the plain (1430m) to the pass (1870m). The pass had some snow only. I was the solo person there. I would see the 360 degree mountains neighbors. It seemed that they were belonged to me only! I could see the San Martin Refugio at the lakeside.
The downhill was the same in the morning. It was steep scree slope and took me an hour. Another 15 minutes was required to arrive San Martin. I arrived at 4:15p.m., 8 hours after the start. I was the first one to stay there. The refugio was better than Refugio Frey. One bed cost $30 and $45 for set dinner. More trekkers were coming in the evening.
Date 49 17 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I left the refugio at 6:00 a.m. and wanted to finish by 11:00 a.m. The first part was steep rocky path. The pace was slow. I wore all the clothes as it was about 0oC in the early morning. I wore only one after half hour. I took a rest after an hour. I increased my pace when the path became gentle. My watch showed the temperature was only 8oC and snow was formed in the plant. However, I did not feel cold.
I crossed the mid-way bridge 3 hour after start at 9:00 a.m. The latter part was along the riverside and there was no good view. The trail was boring up and down. Finally, I finished the track at 11:30 a.m.
I realized that the road was gravel when I came to the trailhead. There was no public transport and the closest one was 6km away. I needed to walk as I did not see any people and car. The sun appeared in an unsuitable time. The road was hard and dusty. The weather was hot in such a road without shadow. I did not see any car within next half hour. I was so tired to take a rest near a bridge.
All of a sudden, a truck stopped beside me and they generously offer a lift. They could speak simple English and dropped me in the bus station. I took bus no.20 to the Bariloche bus terminal.
I brought the ticket ($37) to Sam Martin de los Andes at the bus station. I went back to Perikos' Hostel at 2:00p.m. I took a good sleep after shower. Dinner ($40) was taken at a Chinese restaurant and it was not good.
2009年3月29日 星期日
2009年3月25日 星期三
South America Trip D34 ~D40
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Torres_Del_Paine#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_calafate#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_calafate#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008
Day 34 Date : 2 Dec 2008 Refugio Los Cuernos
It was a tough day today and I waked up at 3:30 a.m. and started at 4:00a.m. It was cloudy and cool in the early morning. The sky was completely dark. I went alone and led by my headlamp and recalled a song "千山我獨行不必相送". The trail was easy to follow. The sky had light from 5:42 a.m. The beautiful mountains were covered by clouds. I arrived at Campamto Italiano at 7:00 a.m. The distance covered was 9.5km.
The park office did not open yet as it was really too early. I look around to see any place was suitable for storing my bulky backpack. I saw that there was one put in front of the door. I thought that it was unsafe and decided to carry my pack (20kg) to climb up!
I filled up my water bottle in a river and saw the ice capped mountain "Punta Bariloche France Valley". It was a glacier which was nothing special for me. I walked along the lateral moraine. I could jump over the boulders if I walked without the backpack. Now, it was hopeless to crawl on it.
The sky was clear at 8:30 a.m. The grand granite mountains were silhouetted with blue sky. The scenery was stunning. I hided the instant noodle in the bush in order to decrease the load and hoped to get back on return.
Afterward, I needed to pass through forest and valley. More people overtook me from 9:00 a.m. I was surprised they only carried the small backpack. I arrived at the look-out venue at 10:20 a.m. It was surrounded 360oC by snow-capped mountains. I had to stop for rest there as me left leg cramped after 6 hours-walking.
I took 30 minutes rest there and went downhill at 11:40 a.m. I wanted to arrive at Los Cuernos by 6:00 p.m. Downhill road was not easier than uphill as the moraine was hard to walk. I could not find out the noodle and was back to Camp Italiano at 2:30 p.m. The trail was easier from there. But it was rocky and debris on the way and I arrived at 5:15p.m. It meant that I had walked about 13 hours from the morning.
Full board was $20,000. I paid $US 50 as I did not have enough Chilean cash. A coke cost $2000. It was pricy and liked stealing money from my pocket. I had no choice!
"肉隨針版上!" The dormitory was three storey.
The dinner consisted of soup, chicken rice and desert. The amount was small e and the taste was poor! It was heaven in Grande Paine yesterday and was in devil now. Overprice! Poor quality!
My body hurt in many parts as carrying such a heavy backpack for traveling for long distance. It included back, shoulder, leg and sun burn.
Day 35 Date : 3 Dec 2008 Refugio Chileano
The breakfast was scramble egg, cereals & 2 pieces of bread. The trail was along the lake in the morning. Although there was snowy mountain, it was rather hot. I only wore T-shirt and walked slowly as the distance to Refugio Chileano was only 16km. The trail was along a knoll in the afternoon. The view was much open. I enjoyed the hiking today as there was no need to struggle with time. I arrived at Refugio Chileano at 3:00 p.m. It was in the valley of Ascenio River.
I took a comfortable shower and asked the manager about the look-out point of Torres Del Paine. It was only 2 hours walk. As it was still early, I thought I could be back by 8:00 p.m. I carried the small backpack with camera & water and went at 4:15 p.m. Now it was hiking. My body was light and I was freedom to move without the heavy backpack.
It took me an hour to Torres Camp at 5:10p.m. and turned left to hike uphill on the moraine. It was various sizes of boulders. I needed to walk along trail but needed to hop over boulders. It was a real hike and sweating all the way. I required to rest for every twenty minutes. There was no view but endless boulders on the way.
I arrived at the look-out point at 6:05p.m. Three landmark granites towers appeared in front of me. They were Torre Norte, Torre Centre & Torre Sur. Now the dream came true. I had seen them many times in the National Geographic Channel. I always said I would be there when I was retired.
I traveled half the earth and walked four days carrying 18kg load. Each days walked 10~12 hours. This dream was hard to achieve. The view was breathing-taking and I sit there for more than 30 minutes. However, the direction of light was not good and I decided to come again in the next morning. I returned at 6:30 p.m. and arrived at hostel at 8:10 p.m. for dinner. I walked for 11 hours today.
Day 36 Date : 4 Dec 2008 Puerto Natales
I waked up at 3:40 a.m. and set off at 4:00 a.m. It took me 1 hour and 15 minutes to Camp Chilean. I was surprised to walk slower even after a rest day. It was faster to hike up on the moraine and it took only 50 minutes. It was such a coincident that I arrived at 6:10 a.m. 12 hours later. There were many people already there. Some carried the sleeping bag.
Now the direction of sun light was in the perfect direction. The view was stunning and much more beautiful. It was worthy walking another 4 hours to come again. I turned back at 6:30 a.m. and came back to hostel at 8:00 a.m.
I started to go downhill at 9:15 a.m. and the trail was very easy. I arrived at Hosteria Las Torres at 11:15 a.m. and took a shuttle bus ($2000) to park entrance. As the bus back to Puerto Natales was at 2:30 p.m., I was free to enjoy sun-bathing, writing diary & rest. It was really a leisure time. I recalled I had finished the W-route using 5 days.
I came back to Puerto Natales at 5:30 p.m. and brought the bus ticket ($10,000) to El Calafate in the bus station. I enjoyed the shower in the Hostel and took a great dinner from a restaurant. I sent an email for booking hostel tomorrow.
Day 37 Date : 5 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The bus picked up at 7:18 a.m. The distance was 352km and would need 5 hour to El Calafate including immigration clearance. I entered Argentina again today.
Omnibus station was in the city centre of El Calafate. I got a map in the tourist centre and walked 15 minutes to the America Del Sur Hostel. It was unluckily that the hostel was full. It was the first time in my trip. They introduced another hostel ($40)for me.
The hostel was not as good as America Del Sur. It also had kitchen for cooking. My room was a 6-bed room and only slept two people. I asked the manager about the activities there. Finally, I decided to go to the glacier by public bus.
The temperature was warm and clam. I only wore short T-shirt to Omni-bus station again to buy the bus ticket ($80) to Moreno Glacier. I also brought ticket ($70) to El Chalten on two days later.
I took a pizza ($20) as lunch at 3:00 p.m. I just walked around few shops as too tired and hungry. One pricy T-shirt cost $50. I brought ham + beacon + pizza as dinner and lunch tomorrow. I came back to hostel at 5:00 p.m. and slept until 6:30p.m.
The manager said she could not book the YHA in El Chalten using internet. I invited her using my phone to book. However, it was full. She helped me to book the Rancho Grande Hostel later. She was very helpful. I strolled outside after dinner. The sunset time was 9:00p.m. It was very charming!
Day 38 Date : 6 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The distance was 78km today. The bus departed at 9:30 a.m. The park entrance fee was $40. The next stop was Puerto Bajo De Las. One-hour cruise to El Calafate was $35 and it was the cheapest tour. The ship could sit for more than 300 people.
The ship sailed close to the glacier. I was unluckily to see the avalanche. The maximum height of the glacier was 50m from sea level. The view was impressive. The cruise ended at 11:45 a.m. The bus continued to the final view point at 12:30 a.m. and would pick me up at 3:30 p.m.
I thought there was no need to use 4 hours. It was just a view point. Therefore, I walked very slowly, took lunch and was waiting for avalanche. Although Moreno Glacier was the largest one in Argentina, it was not amazing to me as I had already seen too much in Antarctica. I felt it was tourist area for all ages.
I recalled Torres Del Paine which was suitable for adventure people only. I had spent 5 days there and stayed one night on different huts. I met a couple from Holland. They spent two days on each hut. One day was walking and the other was for leisure and rest. This was the major difference from Hong Kong.
The most striking venue was three towers in Torres Del Paine. Other scenic points were not spectacular. Most trails walked inside forest without good view and there was no clear signage along the road.
Grande Lodge was good among five huts. Most were poor facilities with pricy charge. For instance, $25HK a 600ml water & HK$40 a pack of chocolate. The food were small amount. "五粒星收費， 二粒星服務。" I think two days was enough in travelling Torres Del Paine and stayed one night at Italiano Refugio.
Day 39 Date : 7 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I took the bus "Chalten Travel" to El Chalten. The distance was 220km. The bus departed at 8:10 a.m. A fat lady sat beside me. I was lucky that the bus was not full and I could change sit when the bus had started. It was very comfortable I sat for two seats.
The bus drove 90~100km/hr on the paved road in the beginning and it was a new one. I had a tea stop in a small hotel at 9:40 a.m. and continued along the Viedma Lake. The Ritz Roy was in the opposite side of the lake. Most people took picture of such amazing view. I arrived at the entrance of El Chalten at 11:30 a.m.
All passengers were required to enter Park Office for briefing and I got a map. I returned to bus and arrived at Rancho Grande Hostel at 12:00a.m. The reception girl spoke quite well English. I was allocated in room 29. The bed cost $50 without breakfast! One word described it "Expansive". However, the room was spacious and had partition for storage of backpack. The window was large but it could not be opened.
I went to downtown to get information after a rest. Ice trekking to Laguna Torre was $360 among all companies. Patagonia Adventura had ice-trekking to Glacier Viedma ($350). I decided to join as it was cheaper than Chile($US 150).
I walked for an hour with finding the bus company "Tasqa" office. I asked the tourist information and was informed that it was only a very small office. The office hour was 5:30~8:30 p.m. Now it was 2:30 p.m. So I came back to hostel and took a rest.
I brought the ticket ($300) to Bariloche 4 days later. The bus ride was about 30 hours and it was a classic bus. Nightmare! No way! There was only two bus companies to offer this route and the other company's price was $360.
I hiked to the Condores Look-out afterward. It was only 25 minutes and I arrived at 6:30 p.m. The village of El Chalten was in my sight. It was pity that Ritz Roy was covered by thick cloud. I went back at 7:00 p.m. Dinner menu set ($26) was steak served with potato + coke. It was very delicious and value for money.
Day 40 Date : 8 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I got a very good sleep yesterday and it was the best in my trip as I was too tired. I only waked up once from 9:30 p.m. to 6:50 a.m. I took a $10 breakfast (unlimited tea + orange juice + 4 pieces of breads) at 7:00 a.m.
I left hostel at 8:00 a.m. and went to Laguna Torre. The trail entrance did not have signage and I need to ask people to confirm it. The first part was uphill and it was easy to walk. The path merged with the north path at 8:40 a.m. and I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:00 a.m.
I could see the Torre which was not El Chalten. Torre meant tower and it was a giant granite cliff cut by glacier. The height of Torre was 3102m. The sky was emerald blue and the Torre was covered with snow. The view was stunning. There had everything except a companion!
The trail was downhill and I arrived (3 hour walk)at CB De Agostai campsite. The time was the same as mentioned in the map. I did not enter the camp and walked to Laguna Torre along the terminal moraine. I arrived at 11:20 a.m. There were glaciers running down from the bottom of the Torre and its shadow was reflected in Laguna Torre. This break-taking was hard to be described in words. Torre had three sharp cut towers while Torres Del Paine was three round-shaped towers. Both were equally stunning.
I had my lunch on the lake shore. I hiked up along the lateral moraine and arrived at other look-out point at 12:30 a.m. Glacier Grande was in a better view there. I returned at 12:50 a.m. I supposed it would faster on return. However, my energy was decreasing fast. It took me 4 hours and I got back to hostel at 5:00p.m. It was 9 hour walk today.
I went to Patagonia Aventura to join Glacier Viedma's glacier walk($350) tomorrow. I had dinner in the same restaurant on yesterday at 7:00 p.m. after shower. The dinner ($30) was fried minted steak + salad + Fanta. It was quite good.
2009年3月22日 星期日
索罟群島孖洲探奇
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/KXdHyB#
今天參加友晟之友的活動，8時尖沙咀公眾碼頭出發，船程二小時。很久沒有綑邊，行程約3小時要綑邊、闖林和爬石。手腳共用，少一點功力，亦不能完成。暢遊巨蟹石、怪人石、神眼洞、怪獸石、嬰兒石、象牙石、難過水、飛來石等異景，今天見到很多新面孔。
今天參加友晟之友的活動，8時尖沙咀公眾碼頭出發，船程二小時。很久沒有綑邊，行程約3小時要綑邊、闖林和爬石。手腳共用，少一點功力，亦不能完成。暢遊巨蟹石、怪人石、神眼洞、怪獸石、嬰兒石、象牙石、難過水、飛來石等異景，今天見到很多新面孔。
2009年3月19日 星期四
Maldives Diving Dec 2003
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/Maldives#
Maldives Diving CLOSE ENCOUNTER
Introduction
What is Maldives?
It is a small country consisting of many inlands. It lies in the southwest of India. The capital is Male. Its population is about 260,000. The major attractions are sunshine, beaches and crystal clear sapphire water. However, the highlight of Maldives is the underwater sea life.
Most holiday-makers will join a tour and stay in a resort for a couple of days. I have joined a one-week live-a-broad diving trip during the Christmas Holiday.
Whale sharks Encounter
24 December
We went to a dive site near Sun Island, South Ari Atoll. We drove a speedboat to search for whale sharks. We jumped into the water while whale shark swam up to surface. They swam slowly and gracefully.
I have used up every once of energy to keep pace with it. Its mouth was large enough to swallow me and its tail could splash me out of water. However, it was so timid, harmless and friendly to allow us to swim along it and even touch it!!!
It is such a wonderful and everlasting experience.
Manta Ray Encounter
24 December
It was the 2nd dive in the afternoon. The water visibility and sunlight were not good. It was so boring in such a diving condition for 20 minutes in the depth of 20 meters. All of a sudden, my dive buddy had pointed something. It was unbelievable that a 5-meter wide manta ray was swimming across us. I picked up my camera immediately and swam towards it.
I was totally exhausted after chasing it for several minutes. After a while, it turned back. Pictures from all directions were taken. I had used up all the air in my tank and had to make emergency ascent and used the skill of oral inflation to inflate my BCD. It was the first time out of 300 diving logs. These stunting nearly cost my life!!
Napoleon Wrasse Close Encounter
25 December
I met a 2 meter long Napoleon Wrasse in the dive site called Fish Head, North Ari Atoll. It swam closely, made circle around us and looked at us curiously. It was very lovely and friendly. I swam with it in a slow and elegant pace within an arm distance.
Photos were taken from 360o. One of my friends said that I had to use one of the amazing pictures to produce a year calendar card.
Sharks Encounter
26 December Night dive
It was the first night dive in this trip. We had seen a "BLUE PANET" DVD about the feeding habit of sharks. Our dive guide said that this scene would be seen that night.
We descended onto a platform in depth of 10 meters. I had seen two sharks moving slowly. We descended to 20 meters and back to 10 meters again. We had seen many sharks with our torches. Sharks were moving faster and faster.
All of a sudden, I saw a shark feeding on a small fish crudely or I had better to use the word instantly. My adrenalin level had risen to supreme level. These sharks swam closely and made circle around us. They appeared from all direction within a touching distance. I was sacred as I could only see them using a torch while they were extremely close to my feet.
It was the first time I wanted to quit the dive in my 7-years diving history. It was the most thrilling experience in my life!
Conclusion
Fish life in Maldives is very rich. The fish life that I have seen in this week is not less than what I have seen in my 300 dive-logs experience. Besides fish life, I also enjoy the BBQ night in a deserted island under twinkle stars. Moreover, I enjoy the comfort and cozy environment of the living boat "Island Safari I".
Personal Diving Education
Dive Level Date Venue
Open water Aug 1996 Sabah
Advance Open water Dec 1996 Philippines
Rescue Diver Sep 1999 Hong Kong
Master Scuba Diver Jan 2001 Hong Kong
Dive Master Nov 2001 Hong Kong
Assistant InstructorApril 2002 Hong Kong
Instructor ? ?
Open water diver is the first entry level for scuba diving. You can dive any where in the world with this C-card. However, it is not sufficient for me as I am a person of searching personal achievement through out my life.
PADI system provides a continual education for divers to enrich their knowledge, skill and experience. I lack one step to be the instructor. I think it is not far from teaching diving instead of Mathematics.
Maldives Diving CLOSE ENCOUNTER
Introduction
What is Maldives?
It is a small country consisting of many inlands. It lies in the southwest of India. The capital is Male. Its population is about 260,000. The major attractions are sunshine, beaches and crystal clear sapphire water. However, the highlight of Maldives is the underwater sea life.
Most holiday-makers will join a tour and stay in a resort for a couple of days. I have joined a one-week live-a-broad diving trip during the Christmas Holiday.
Whale sharks Encounter
24 December
We went to a dive site near Sun Island, South Ari Atoll. We drove a speedboat to search for whale sharks. We jumped into the water while whale shark swam up to surface. They swam slowly and gracefully.
I have used up every once of energy to keep pace with it. Its mouth was large enough to swallow me and its tail could splash me out of water. However, it was so timid, harmless and friendly to allow us to swim along it and even touch it!!!
It is such a wonderful and everlasting experience.
Manta Ray Encounter
24 December
It was the 2nd dive in the afternoon. The water visibility and sunlight were not good. It was so boring in such a diving condition for 20 minutes in the depth of 20 meters. All of a sudden, my dive buddy had pointed something. It was unbelievable that a 5-meter wide manta ray was swimming across us. I picked up my camera immediately and swam towards it.
I was totally exhausted after chasing it for several minutes. After a while, it turned back. Pictures from all directions were taken. I had used up all the air in my tank and had to make emergency ascent and used the skill of oral inflation to inflate my BCD. It was the first time out of 300 diving logs. These stunting nearly cost my life!!
Napoleon Wrasse Close Encounter
25 December
I met a 2 meter long Napoleon Wrasse in the dive site called Fish Head, North Ari Atoll. It swam closely, made circle around us and looked at us curiously. It was very lovely and friendly. I swam with it in a slow and elegant pace within an arm distance.
Photos were taken from 360o. One of my friends said that I had to use one of the amazing pictures to produce a year calendar card.
Sharks Encounter
26 December Night dive
It was the first night dive in this trip. We had seen a "BLUE PANET" DVD about the feeding habit of sharks. Our dive guide said that this scene would be seen that night.
We descended onto a platform in depth of 10 meters. I had seen two sharks moving slowly. We descended to 20 meters and back to 10 meters again. We had seen many sharks with our torches. Sharks were moving faster and faster.
All of a sudden, I saw a shark feeding on a small fish crudely or I had better to use the word instantly. My adrenalin level had risen to supreme level. These sharks swam closely and made circle around us. They appeared from all direction within a touching distance. I was sacred as I could only see them using a torch while they were extremely close to my feet.
It was the first time I wanted to quit the dive in my 7-years diving history. It was the most thrilling experience in my life!
Conclusion
Fish life in Maldives is very rich. The fish life that I have seen in this week is not less than what I have seen in my 300 dive-logs experience. Besides fish life, I also enjoy the BBQ night in a deserted island under twinkle stars. Moreover, I enjoy the comfort and cozy environment of the living boat "Island Safari I".
Personal Diving Education
Dive Level Date Venue
Open water Aug 1996 Sabah
Advance Open water Dec 1996 Philippines
Rescue Diver Sep 1999 Hong Kong
Master Scuba Diver Jan 2001 Hong Kong
Dive Master Nov 2001 Hong Kong
Assistant InstructorApril 2002 Hong Kong
Instructor ? ?
Open water diver is the first entry level for scuba diving. You can dive any where in the world with this C-card. However, it is not sufficient for me as I am a person of searching personal achievement through out my life.
PADI system provides a continual education for divers to enrich their knowledge, skill and experience. I lack one step to be the instructor. I think it is not far from teaching diving instead of Mathematics.
Kilimanjaro Trekking Dec 2006
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/Kilimanjaro#
What is Kilimanjaro?
It is the highest mountain ( 5895m ) of Africa. How high is it? The highest peak is only about 1000m in Hong Kong and 4100m in South East Asia. It is bounded by two countries ( Kenya and Tanzania) and in East Africa.
Introduction
I planned trekking in Kilimanjaro for two years. I had sent request to several local agents. Two offered me reasonable price. I decided in joining Victoria Expeditions that was recommended by a bulletin board. I was surprised that I was the only client in trekking. The trekking party consisted of a guide, a chef, a porter, a waiter and me!! It was so luxury that I was served by four people.
Brief Review
The objective of the trip was the summit(5895m). Kilimanjaro was lying in Africa. The image of Africa should be grassland, animals and (off course) hot. However, the climate was cool, cold and freezing as altitude. The snow line was about 4000m in a normal condition.
There was only a 6 trekking days. The first five days were not difficult and the scenery did not spectacular because of raining. The highlight was the summit days.
Summit day
I had walked 8 hours and arrived the campsite at 4:30p.m. on the day before summit-day. It was again another raining day. Although the altitude was 4700m, I had no symptom of AMS. I had a tea break consist of a H.K. noodle, which was the most delicious one in the mountain.
The schedule was that we set off at 11: 00 p.m. It meant that I only had 5 hr for sleeping. Undeniably, it was difficult to sleep. In fact, I just lied on the tent for a couple of hours.
I set off at 11:15 p.m. after taking a simple dinner. When I came out of tent, I was amazed that it was covered a layer of snow which was fallen in the past hours. The temperature was freezing cool. The sky was unexpected clear. Thousands of stars were scattered on the sky. I could see the town on the foothill of mountain. It was the most exciting moment from the past few days.
I was the first one to climb in the campsite and was leaded by my guide ( Julius). The path was illuminated by headlamp and the moon. It was not difficult to follow with common sense. Sometimes, it walked through rocks and it might also hop over boulders. It was too demanding in just a high altitude. I almost gave up after an hour. Julius was so kind to take my personal backpack. I resumed zest for pushing up up up!!!
A dazzling headlamp was coming from far below. It did not take long to take over me and disappeared uphill. The phenomenon was happened again and again.
The path was covered by snow after an hour start. The snow depth was increasing when I was walking up. Walking strategy was the same as before. ( 30 min walk 5 min stop; 20 min walk 5 min stop ; 5 min walk 5 min stop; finally rest on trekking pole between steps!!!).
Although I had headache, it was not so serious. Low temperature, AMS and sufficient food in-take caused fatigue and I had eaten chocolate bar on the way. The drinking tube was frozen several hours later and I thought the temperature is -20o C.
The final ascent was a gentle slope to the rim of crater. It was about 50m distances that I could run in a minute in Hong Kong. It was a completely different picture after 8 hours walking. I had to crawl step by step and rest in alternate steps. It took me 15 minutes to finish the last leg. Julius hugged me and I was amazed by the stunning view. Blue sky and crystal clear snow were in harmony with breathtaking glacier as background.
I took a rest, taking picture and looking for the following trekkers. I stood on the rim of the crater that was a junction. Trekkers were coming from each direction and all were in slow motion that was the mirror image of myself.
As the time and my physical conditions, I managed to climb to 5700m only that was the highest altitude in my life. The summit was still another 1.5 hr away. Downhill back to campsite took another 4 hours. 3.5 hr walking down to another campsite after an hour rest. It was 22 hours walk in two days time.
Itinerary:
Date
1&2 H.K. to Kenya 13hrs
2 Shuttle bus Kenya to Tanzania 5 hrs
3-8 Trekking days
9 Shuttle bus Tanzania to Kenya
10 Kenya to H.K.
Cost Expenditure
Air Ticket: HK$ 8600
Local Cost : US 970
Tips : US 150
What is Kilimanjaro?
It is the highest mountain ( 5895m ) of Africa. How high is it? The highest peak is only about 1000m in Hong Kong and 4100m in South East Asia. It is bounded by two countries ( Kenya and Tanzania) and in East Africa.
Introduction
I planned trekking in Kilimanjaro for two years. I had sent request to several local agents. Two offered me reasonable price. I decided in joining Victoria Expeditions that was recommended by a bulletin board. I was surprised that I was the only client in trekking. The trekking party consisted of a guide, a chef, a porter, a waiter and me!! It was so luxury that I was served by four people.
Brief Review
The objective of the trip was the summit(5895m). Kilimanjaro was lying in Africa. The image of Africa should be grassland, animals and (off course) hot. However, the climate was cool, cold and freezing as altitude. The snow line was about 4000m in a normal condition.
There was only a 6 trekking days. The first five days were not difficult and the scenery did not spectacular because of raining. The highlight was the summit days.
Summit day
I had walked 8 hours and arrived the campsite at 4:30p.m. on the day before summit-day. It was again another raining day. Although the altitude was 4700m, I had no symptom of AMS. I had a tea break consist of a H.K. noodle, which was the most delicious one in the mountain.
The schedule was that we set off at 11: 00 p.m. It meant that I only had 5 hr for sleeping. Undeniably, it was difficult to sleep. In fact, I just lied on the tent for a couple of hours.
I set off at 11:15 p.m. after taking a simple dinner. When I came out of tent, I was amazed that it was covered a layer of snow which was fallen in the past hours. The temperature was freezing cool. The sky was unexpected clear. Thousands of stars were scattered on the sky. I could see the town on the foothill of mountain. It was the most exciting moment from the past few days.
I was the first one to climb in the campsite and was leaded by my guide ( Julius). The path was illuminated by headlamp and the moon. It was not difficult to follow with common sense. Sometimes, it walked through rocks and it might also hop over boulders. It was too demanding in just a high altitude. I almost gave up after an hour. Julius was so kind to take my personal backpack. I resumed zest for pushing up up up!!!
A dazzling headlamp was coming from far below. It did not take long to take over me and disappeared uphill. The phenomenon was happened again and again.
The path was covered by snow after an hour start. The snow depth was increasing when I was walking up. Walking strategy was the same as before. ( 30 min walk 5 min stop; 20 min walk 5 min stop ; 5 min walk 5 min stop; finally rest on trekking pole between steps!!!).
Although I had headache, it was not so serious. Low temperature, AMS and sufficient food in-take caused fatigue and I had eaten chocolate bar on the way. The drinking tube was frozen several hours later and I thought the temperature is -20o C.
The final ascent was a gentle slope to the rim of crater. It was about 50m distances that I could run in a minute in Hong Kong. It was a completely different picture after 8 hours walking. I had to crawl step by step and rest in alternate steps. It took me 15 minutes to finish the last leg. Julius hugged me and I was amazed by the stunning view. Blue sky and crystal clear snow were in harmony with breathtaking glacier as background.
I took a rest, taking picture and looking for the following trekkers. I stood on the rim of the crater that was a junction. Trekkers were coming from each direction and all were in slow motion that was the mirror image of myself.
As the time and my physical conditions, I managed to climb to 5700m only that was the highest altitude in my life. The summit was still another 1.5 hr away. Downhill back to campsite took another 4 hours. 3.5 hr walking down to another campsite after an hour rest. It was 22 hours walk in two days time.
Itinerary:
Date
1&2 H.K. to Kenya 13hrs
2 Shuttle bus Kenya to Tanzania 5 hrs
3-8 Trekking days
9 Shuttle bus Tanzania to Kenya
10 Kenya to H.K.
Cost Expenditure
Air Ticket: HK$ 8600
Local Cost : US 970
Tips : US 150
K2 _ Trekking in Pakistan July 2005
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/PakistanK2_trekking#
Introduction
Once upon a time, I had seen a program about K2 in A1 adventure channel. I was interested in it and found some information from internet. I also borrowed book from library and bought magazine about K2.
The height of K2 was 8611m. It was the second highest peak in the world and was lying between Pakistan and China. I joined a local tour of the standard 20-days' package "K2 Base Camp Trek". The base camp was about 5000m. There was only 12 trekking days while other time spent on transport.
Preparation
The local tour cost was Euro $1000, trekking permit US$ 50 and domestic flight
US$ 110. Single supplement was another Euro $200. I had only to pay US$110 as deposit while balance was paid upon arrival. It was very fair and safe for me. I was surprised that other travelers had made all payment first.
A long equipment checklist was received after I had paid the deposit. I had to shop around various outfitters to buy necessary equipment such as water filter and gaiter.
Diary
Day 1 & 2
Hong Kong to Islamabad (Capital of Pakistan) was 10:00 p.m. ~ 4: 00 a.m. The flight stopped in Bangkok for 2 hr. It took only 30 min. to get through immigration. I saw my nametag when I stepped out of airport. Mr. Malik was waiting. He was the manager of the local tour and was man that communicated with me for more than 20 emails. I had met another traveler in the hotel. Her name was called "Shelagh" who was a Canadian and was working in Kuala Lumpur Philharmonic Orchestra as violinist.
Day 3
It was an extra-day. I rented a car for 800Rs ( 1 HK$ = 7.5 Rs ) to go to Taxila which was one of the World Heritage. I met another 8 more trekkers, 4 from England, 2 from German, 1 from Australia and one from Korea.
Day 4
5:00 a.m. wake up 5:30 check out 6:00 breakfast
7:00 a.m. Mr. Malik came with a mini-bus. Luggage was put in the roof and some put inside the car. When the car had droved about 30 min., some luggage had dropped from the roof. It took us about an hour to tie up safely again. Total driving time was 16 hours to cover 475 km from Islamabad to Chilas. The highway was KHH which was built with the help of China. The highway was from Islamabad to China. We stayed in Shangrila Hotel.
Day 5
Today was another driving day (10 hrs). The scenery was very fascinating with deep gorge and rapid along the highway. We stayed in the camping resort which was a small building, two toilet, and primitive kitchen with open ground for camping. My tent was Northface. All equipment was checked and tested in the night. We were briefed about details of the trek.
Day 6
This is a free day. I went to the local town Shardu to arrange return domestic flight. As the flight was easily cancelled for bad weather, I had to book a jeep back to Islamabad at cost of 17000 Rs ( HK$ 2300). The trip was 800km and estimated driving time was 16hr.
Day 7
5:30 wake-up: Temp : 20~30C : Altitude : 3200m
I got on a small jeep with three other trekkers. The jeep was 4-wheels drive with 2 sets of gear. The road condition was very good in the first hour of the journey. It changed from bad to worst. There was snow-capped mountain with cliff and rapid. The road condition was similar to Tibet .The scenery was very stunning. In fact, Tibet was only 200km from here.
The jeep had crossed 2 feet waterfall. Sometimes, we had to get off the jeep and put some rock under the tire to let the jeep go up the slope.
It took 10 hrs for us to arrive small village Askoli. We would camp there and there was about 35 porters waiting for us.
However, there were several other trekking groups. It was surprising noisy. Anyway, scenery was very nice and hoped that it would be better on tomorrow.
Day 8
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~33C : Altitude : 3200m Trekking time : 5hr
As the high attitude, I had headache so I could not sleep well yesterday night. Our luggage was weighted with maximum of 12.5kg. We had to carry for the rest of other. In fact, luggage was weighted for equal share among porters everyday.
Today was the first hiking day. I walked very slowly for the fear of mountain sickness (AMS). I had eaten very little at lunch as there was a little effect of AMS. It was better after a short sleep. One of our member, Sofi, who got serious ill with shivering. She had not eaten anything for the day.
Day 9
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~30C : Altitude : 3350m Trekking time : 11hr
Our guide, Raza, said that hiking time was about 8 hr.(Their average time !!) Therefore, I prepared 2 liters of water only. In fact, water bottle was filled in the morning. If we needed more water during the day, we had to filter and added iodine to purify water from stream. The smell of iodine was no good and the process was complicated and time consuming.
I hiked along the trail which was along the riverbank and in the valley. It was very hot (30C) in the daytime. My hiking strategy was 30min. walk with 5 min. stop with a drink and headache along the way. I hiked across lateral moraine and terminal moraine. Every once of energy was used up to reach the campsite "Batdumal". It was very primitive with a small stone house and water tap.
I went to see our porters in the evening. They were preparing dinner with simple food.
Their salary was about US$5 each day which included everything. They used some stone to erect a rectangle as shelter. They did not have a tent while they only had a blanket to sleep in the cold night.
Day 10
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~25C : Altitude : 3380m Trekking time : 5 hr
The scenery was much better. I went much closer to the mountain just similar to find the origin of life. We hiked along a muddy rapid which origin was Baltoro Glacier. The length was 65km and was second longest in the world. The origin of Baltoro Glacier was K2. Although the trek was 5 hr only, it was very tough.
Paiju camp was very nice. It was located in the slope overlooking rapid, Baltoro Glacier and snow-capped mountains. I took a first cold water shower for the past four days.
Day 11
5:30 wake-up: Temp : 15~25C : Altitude : 3780m Trekking time : 3 hr
It was an acclimatization day and was the most comfortable one. It was difficult to sleep in the night and waked up several times. However, headache had improved a lot.
We hiked to a surrounding hill with some exercise. It was not an easy hike although it was only 400m-altitude gain. We came back to camp in the afternoon. There were more tents and porters. There was a 40 Korean group with 140 porters. This campsite had changed into a village. There was no sign of tranquility.
Day 12
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 3780m Trekking time : 9 hr
After one-hour hike, I arrived the terminal of Baltoro Glacier. I would walk on the glacier in following days. I walked on the muddy and rocky surface for a couple of hours. Suddenly, I recognized that I walked on the glacier. I thought that glacier should be shinny with white crystal as I had seen in many documentaries. Now, it was just under dirty sandy surface.
I ate very little at lunch after 6 hr walking. In fact, I could not eat. I arrived at the camp "Khabursay" with another 3 hr leaving only half of my life while other trekkers only used 6 hr .
Although this camp was very small, there was only our group camp. There was snow-capped mountain surrounding us with breathtaking blue sky. The tranquility gave me the feeling that I was in the heaven.
Day 13
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 4140m Trekking time : 10 hr
I had a best sleep with headache and suitable temperature in the night. I walked along the lateral moraine. It was relatively easy as there was lesser up and down. I felt extremely small when comparing with the glacier. The scenery was much better today. Although, the altitude was over 4000m, trail was easier to walk.
The campsite was called GoroII. There had nothing but rocks and ice only. We slept on ice only. It was hard to imagine for a Hong Kong to sleep on ice. However, it was not so cold in the night. It was very easy to wash my leg here. I just put my foot on the icy-surface as there was running icy water on any crevice. However, I had to change leg for every 15s.
Day 14
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 5~25C : Altitude : 4500m Trekking time : 10 hr
I carried a lot of clothes so the backpack was very heavy. I walked on the glacier and saw ice tower protruding from underground with high mountains as background. When I arrived at lunch spot, most people had gone already. I took some food but without water to refill. It was demanding to finish the rest of the day without enough water.
Luckily, one porter helped me to carry me backpack. I was walking like running without backpack. I caught up with other slow trekkers. One was sick. So porter helped taking his pack, I had to carry my own one. Nightmare was come!! AMS came on 4500m. I had totally wrongly thought that I had already conquered it. 4500m were completely different to 3500m. I felt fatigue and headache. I was crawling slowly and even step-by-step to the campsite "Concordia". I was totally exhausted. I drank two cups of water and vomited immediately. I could do nothing but sleep. I still could not eat anything in dinner.
Day 15
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 4700m Trekking time : 4 hr
I had eaten a very little food in breakfast. The destination was "K2 Base camp". The altitude was about 5000m and distance was 18km. The guide said hiking was about 10 hr. I thought I could manage in 12 hr in good condition.
When I walked 2 hours, I saw the base camp lying far away and other trekkers were already far ahead of me. After a deep thought and estimation my own ability at that moment, I decided to turn back to Concordia. Although I could not reach the base-camp, Concordia was already a very fascinating place and worth to come. The most important thing was that I would come back safely, healthy and enjoy the process of hiking.
My decision proved to be a good one as I vomited again when I came back to campsite again. I ate Diamox this time and AMS syndrome had improved a lot.
Other trekkers came in three groups. The best fit came back in 9hr. The second group came back in 11hr. The weakest came back in 13hr. Some blame theirselves could not reach the base camp.
Day 16
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 0~35C : Altitude : 4500m Trekking time : 13 hr
Our group was divided into two. Eight trekkers would go to "Ghondoghoro Pass", which was a technical clime. They had to go through 5600m pass with 300m-fixed rope with equipment of crampon and axe.
Shelahg and I retreated back the same route. Initially, I thought that it should be easier down hill. However, there was too much up and down on the glacier. It was hard to imagine how I would walk up just a few days ago. I would not eat anything at lunch. As the energy level dropped very fast, porter carried my personal backpack. I stopped for a rest from every 30min., 25min, 20min. 10min, or even 5min.... I was plagued by fatigue, dehydrated and deoxygenated. It was completed dark when I crawled to campsite. It was already 13 hr of walking. I had not eaten anything at night. I was very surprised I did not feel hungry for not eating for more than 18hr.!!!!
Day 17
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 0~35C : Altitude : 3400m Trekking time : 11 hr
I could not eat anything again in the morning. It was more than 24hr without eating!! However, I had to walk down using my physical and psychology tired body. I walked very slowly, slowly and slowing. The walking pace was similar to the last hour of walking yesterday. I walked alone and was far behind our group. I was thinking about calling emergency helicopter rescue as I could claim insurance.
Luckily, I had frustrated after 3 hr' walking. There was a porter of other party passed by me. He helped me to take my backpack. It was just a present given by God. I would walk into normal pace. Although it was still demanding, I could walk. I thought that I could not move without the help of porter. The situation had changed from devil into heaven!
I could eat something this time at lunch. It might be without burden of backpack and lower altitude at lunch spot. The guide suggested me using 500Rs ($70) to hire this porter for the following days.
Although I ate only very little at lunch, it was a real eating for the past two days. I resumed energy to walk as a normal people. It was 11hr walking today.
Day 19 and 20
It was a very easy walk back to starting village Askoli with my 500Rs personal porter. I even walked faster than him. The jeep picked us back to Shardu on day 20. When we went back to K2 motel, the local guide said that the domestic flight was cancelled in past two days. It was very likely that we had to rent a jeep to go back Islamabad ( 800km apart) Finally, we made a arrangement for a Corolla car at cost 17000Rs ( $2400 ).
Day 21
We waited in hotel lobby at schedule time 7:30 a.m. However, the driver did not show up. I called him and the manager. The driver came at 8:00 a.m. without the car !!!!!!
Finally, we managed to leave at about 8:30a.m. The driver said that driving time was about 16hr. The driver drove very, very fast. The driving speed was 110km/hr for a relatively good road and was 70~80km/hr when turning corner. I was holding the rail all the time. You could imagine KHH highway was built along cliff and high rising mountains. There was no safety block near the rim of road. I would drive at about 50km/hr if I were the driver. I told the driver to have a rest after 4~5 hr driving. However, he said he was fresh.
Anyway, we arrived Islamabad at 4:00a.m. after 18hrs' drive. After having a breakfast, I took a morning flight to Hong Kong.
Introduction
Once upon a time, I had seen a program about K2 in A1 adventure channel. I was interested in it and found some information from internet. I also borrowed book from library and bought magazine about K2.
The height of K2 was 8611m. It was the second highest peak in the world and was lying between Pakistan and China. I joined a local tour of the standard 20-days' package "K2 Base Camp Trek". The base camp was about 5000m. There was only 12 trekking days while other time spent on transport.
Preparation
The local tour cost was Euro $1000, trekking permit US$ 50 and domestic flight
US$ 110. Single supplement was another Euro $200. I had only to pay US$110 as deposit while balance was paid upon arrival. It was very fair and safe for me. I was surprised that other travelers had made all payment first.
A long equipment checklist was received after I had paid the deposit. I had to shop around various outfitters to buy necessary equipment such as water filter and gaiter.
Diary
Day 1 & 2
Hong Kong to Islamabad (Capital of Pakistan) was 10:00 p.m. ~ 4: 00 a.m. The flight stopped in Bangkok for 2 hr. It took only 30 min. to get through immigration. I saw my nametag when I stepped out of airport. Mr. Malik was waiting. He was the manager of the local tour and was man that communicated with me for more than 20 emails. I had met another traveler in the hotel. Her name was called "Shelagh" who was a Canadian and was working in Kuala Lumpur Philharmonic Orchestra as violinist.
Day 3
It was an extra-day. I rented a car for 800Rs ( 1 HK$ = 7.5 Rs ) to go to Taxila which was one of the World Heritage. I met another 8 more trekkers, 4 from England, 2 from German, 1 from Australia and one from Korea.
Day 4
5:00 a.m. wake up 5:30 check out 6:00 breakfast
7:00 a.m. Mr. Malik came with a mini-bus. Luggage was put in the roof and some put inside the car. When the car had droved about 30 min., some luggage had dropped from the roof. It took us about an hour to tie up safely again. Total driving time was 16 hours to cover 475 km from Islamabad to Chilas. The highway was KHH which was built with the help of China. The highway was from Islamabad to China. We stayed in Shangrila Hotel.
Day 5
Today was another driving day (10 hrs). The scenery was very fascinating with deep gorge and rapid along the highway. We stayed in the camping resort which was a small building, two toilet, and primitive kitchen with open ground for camping. My tent was Northface. All equipment was checked and tested in the night. We were briefed about details of the trek.
Day 6
This is a free day. I went to the local town Shardu to arrange return domestic flight. As the flight was easily cancelled for bad weather, I had to book a jeep back to Islamabad at cost of 17000 Rs ( HK$ 2300). The trip was 800km and estimated driving time was 16hr.
Day 7
5:30 wake-up: Temp : 20~30C : Altitude : 3200m
I got on a small jeep with three other trekkers. The jeep was 4-wheels drive with 2 sets of gear. The road condition was very good in the first hour of the journey. It changed from bad to worst. There was snow-capped mountain with cliff and rapid. The road condition was similar to Tibet .The scenery was very stunning. In fact, Tibet was only 200km from here.
The jeep had crossed 2 feet waterfall. Sometimes, we had to get off the jeep and put some rock under the tire to let the jeep go up the slope.
It took 10 hrs for us to arrive small village Askoli. We would camp there and there was about 35 porters waiting for us.
However, there were several other trekking groups. It was surprising noisy. Anyway, scenery was very nice and hoped that it would be better on tomorrow.
Day 8
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~33C : Altitude : 3200m Trekking time : 5hr
As the high attitude, I had headache so I could not sleep well yesterday night. Our luggage was weighted with maximum of 12.5kg. We had to carry for the rest of other. In fact, luggage was weighted for equal share among porters everyday.
Today was the first hiking day. I walked very slowly for the fear of mountain sickness (AMS). I had eaten very little at lunch as there was a little effect of AMS. It was better after a short sleep. One of our member, Sofi, who got serious ill with shivering. She had not eaten anything for the day.
Day 9
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~30C : Altitude : 3350m Trekking time : 11hr
Our guide, Raza, said that hiking time was about 8 hr.(Their average time !!) Therefore, I prepared 2 liters of water only. In fact, water bottle was filled in the morning. If we needed more water during the day, we had to filter and added iodine to purify water from stream. The smell of iodine was no good and the process was complicated and time consuming.
I hiked along the trail which was along the riverbank and in the valley. It was very hot (30C) in the daytime. My hiking strategy was 30min. walk with 5 min. stop with a drink and headache along the way. I hiked across lateral moraine and terminal moraine. Every once of energy was used up to reach the campsite "Batdumal". It was very primitive with a small stone house and water tap.
I went to see our porters in the evening. They were preparing dinner with simple food.
Their salary was about US$5 each day which included everything. They used some stone to erect a rectangle as shelter. They did not have a tent while they only had a blanket to sleep in the cold night.
Day 10
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 20~25C : Altitude : 3380m Trekking time : 5 hr
The scenery was much better. I went much closer to the mountain just similar to find the origin of life. We hiked along a muddy rapid which origin was Baltoro Glacier. The length was 65km and was second longest in the world. The origin of Baltoro Glacier was K2. Although the trek was 5 hr only, it was very tough.
Paiju camp was very nice. It was located in the slope overlooking rapid, Baltoro Glacier and snow-capped mountains. I took a first cold water shower for the past four days.
Day 11
5:30 wake-up: Temp : 15~25C : Altitude : 3780m Trekking time : 3 hr
It was an acclimatization day and was the most comfortable one. It was difficult to sleep in the night and waked up several times. However, headache had improved a lot.
We hiked to a surrounding hill with some exercise. It was not an easy hike although it was only 400m-altitude gain. We came back to camp in the afternoon. There were more tents and porters. There was a 40 Korean group with 140 porters. This campsite had changed into a village. There was no sign of tranquility.
Day 12
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 3780m Trekking time : 9 hr
After one-hour hike, I arrived the terminal of Baltoro Glacier. I would walk on the glacier in following days. I walked on the muddy and rocky surface for a couple of hours. Suddenly, I recognized that I walked on the glacier. I thought that glacier should be shinny with white crystal as I had seen in many documentaries. Now, it was just under dirty sandy surface.
I ate very little at lunch after 6 hr walking. In fact, I could not eat. I arrived at the camp "Khabursay" with another 3 hr leaving only half of my life while other trekkers only used 6 hr .
Although this camp was very small, there was only our group camp. There was snow-capped mountain surrounding us with breathtaking blue sky. The tranquility gave me the feeling that I was in the heaven.
Day 13
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 4140m Trekking time : 10 hr
I had a best sleep with headache and suitable temperature in the night. I walked along the lateral moraine. It was relatively easy as there was lesser up and down. I felt extremely small when comparing with the glacier. The scenery was much better today. Although, the altitude was over 4000m, trail was easier to walk.
The campsite was called GoroII. There had nothing but rocks and ice only. We slept on ice only. It was hard to imagine for a Hong Kong to sleep on ice. However, it was not so cold in the night. It was very easy to wash my leg here. I just put my foot on the icy-surface as there was running icy water on any crevice. However, I had to change leg for every 15s.
Day 14
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 5~25C : Altitude : 4500m Trekking time : 10 hr
I carried a lot of clothes so the backpack was very heavy. I walked on the glacier and saw ice tower protruding from underground with high mountains as background. When I arrived at lunch spot, most people had gone already. I took some food but without water to refill. It was demanding to finish the rest of the day without enough water.
Luckily, one porter helped me to carry me backpack. I was walking like running without backpack. I caught up with other slow trekkers. One was sick. So porter helped taking his pack, I had to carry my own one. Nightmare was come!! AMS came on 4500m. I had totally wrongly thought that I had already conquered it. 4500m were completely different to 3500m. I felt fatigue and headache. I was crawling slowly and even step-by-step to the campsite "Concordia". I was totally exhausted. I drank two cups of water and vomited immediately. I could do nothing but sleep. I still could not eat anything in dinner.
Day 15
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 10~25C : Altitude : 4700m Trekking time : 4 hr
I had eaten a very little food in breakfast. The destination was "K2 Base camp". The altitude was about 5000m and distance was 18km. The guide said hiking was about 10 hr. I thought I could manage in 12 hr in good condition.
When I walked 2 hours, I saw the base camp lying far away and other trekkers were already far ahead of me. After a deep thought and estimation my own ability at that moment, I decided to turn back to Concordia. Although I could not reach the base-camp, Concordia was already a very fascinating place and worth to come. The most important thing was that I would come back safely, healthy and enjoy the process of hiking.
My decision proved to be a good one as I vomited again when I came back to campsite again. I ate Diamox this time and AMS syndrome had improved a lot.
Other trekkers came in three groups. The best fit came back in 9hr. The second group came back in 11hr. The weakest came back in 13hr. Some blame theirselves could not reach the base camp.
Day 16
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 0~35C : Altitude : 4500m Trekking time : 13 hr
Our group was divided into two. Eight trekkers would go to "Ghondoghoro Pass", which was a technical clime. They had to go through 5600m pass with 300m-fixed rope with equipment of crampon and axe.
Shelahg and I retreated back the same route. Initially, I thought that it should be easier down hill. However, there was too much up and down on the glacier. It was hard to imagine how I would walk up just a few days ago. I would not eat anything at lunch. As the energy level dropped very fast, porter carried my personal backpack. I stopped for a rest from every 30min., 25min, 20min. 10min, or even 5min.... I was plagued by fatigue, dehydrated and deoxygenated. It was completed dark when I crawled to campsite. It was already 13 hr of walking. I had not eaten anything at night. I was very surprised I did not feel hungry for not eating for more than 18hr.!!!!
Day 17
5:00 wake-up: Temp : 0~35C : Altitude : 3400m Trekking time : 11 hr
I could not eat anything again in the morning. It was more than 24hr without eating!! However, I had to walk down using my physical and psychology tired body. I walked very slowly, slowly and slowing. The walking pace was similar to the last hour of walking yesterday. I walked alone and was far behind our group. I was thinking about calling emergency helicopter rescue as I could claim insurance.
Luckily, I had frustrated after 3 hr' walking. There was a porter of other party passed by me. He helped me to take my backpack. It was just a present given by God. I would walk into normal pace. Although it was still demanding, I could walk. I thought that I could not move without the help of porter. The situation had changed from devil into heaven!
I could eat something this time at lunch. It might be without burden of backpack and lower altitude at lunch spot. The guide suggested me using 500Rs ($70) to hire this porter for the following days.
Although I ate only very little at lunch, it was a real eating for the past two days. I resumed energy to walk as a normal people. It was 11hr walking today.
Day 19 and 20
It was a very easy walk back to starting village Askoli with my 500Rs personal porter. I even walked faster than him. The jeep picked us back to Shardu on day 20. When we went back to K2 motel, the local guide said that the domestic flight was cancelled in past two days. It was very likely that we had to rent a jeep to go back Islamabad ( 800km apart) Finally, we made a arrangement for a Corolla car at cost 17000Rs ( $2400 ).
Day 21
We waited in hotel lobby at schedule time 7:30 a.m. However, the driver did not show up. I called him and the manager. The driver came at 8:00 a.m. without the car !!!!!!
Finally, we managed to leave at about 8:30a.m. The driver said that driving time was about 16hr. The driver drove very, very fast. The driving speed was 110km/hr for a relatively good road and was 70~80km/hr when turning corner. I was holding the rail all the time. You could imagine KHH highway was built along cliff and high rising mountains. There was no safety block near the rim of road. I would drive at about 50km/hr if I were the driver. I told the driver to have a rest after 4~5 hr driving. However, he said he was fresh.
Anyway, we arrived Islamabad at 4:00a.m. after 18hrs' drive. After having a breakfast, I took a morning flight to Hong Kong.
Switzerland Hiking Aug 2006
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/Switerzland#
The Walker’s Haute Route
Introduction
MacLehose Trail was 100 km in length across Hong Kong countryside. The Walker’s Haute Route was 180km in length. It linked up Mont Blanc ( 4807m: The highest mountain in Western Europe ) and Matterhorn ( 4478m : Landmark of Switzerland). I crossed 11 passes, gained more than 12,000m in height within two weeks. The trail was a pilgrimage to the Matterhorn. The Route was walking from Chamonix in France to Zermatt in Switzerland
This time was hiking not trekking. Trekking meant walking in high attitude ( normally over 3000m) with load carried by porter. Hiking meant walking under 3000m and all load was carried by myself. My full backpack was about 18kg while normal luggage weight limit was 20kg only in plane!
Normal day schedule was as follows :
6:00 a.m. Wake-up
6:30 a.m. Breakfast
7:00 a.m. Start ( 6 ~11 hr walking)
4~6 p.m. Finish
10:00 p.m. Sleep
I stayed in single room of hotel in villages or dormitory in mountain huts.
Trail Description
The trail was a good path and well-marked. Signposts were founded at major junctions. It was very easy to follow. The trail not only came across country side, but passed through small lane of villages as well as backyard of local house.
The path might be a well-paved track, narrow lane along hanging valley contouring hanging cliff and went through forest or larch tree.
There were some difficult parts too. I had to walk across scree slope, suspension bridge, hoping over boulders and walk over glaciers. Sometimes, I had to cross over streams, rivers and rapids.
To sum up, the level of difficulty was similar to that of the MacLehose Trail in most parts. I discovered delightful villages and remote hamlets, wander flower meadows and forests, skirt exquisite tarns that turn mountains on their heads and clamber beside glaciers.
Mountain Hut
Mountain huts were located among countryside in a suitable walking distance. There were always stunning views. Although mountain huts were in remote location, they provided modern facilities such as drinking water, electricity, food, coke, beer, wine, modern kitchen, hot water shower,…
It was a base for holiday hikers as well as serious climbers. Dormitory accommodation and half-pension were the norm. Dormitory meant sleeping in a bed in a large room which might be from 2 to 20. Half-pension meant dinner, bed and breakfast. Lunch was provided with extra cost. The price was in the range $350 ~ $500. It was reasonable in Switzerland standard.
Traditional dinner included :
Soup
Salad
Main course : pork, beef, steak or spaghetti.
Desert
The longest day
26 July 2006 Wednesday
Cabane Du Mont Fort to Cabane De Prafleuri
Distance : 14 km, Climb : 886m , Hiking time 10.5 hr.
I woke up at 6:30 a.m. and had a breakfast at 7:00a.m. I set off at 7:45a.m. The first part was along the very narrow footpath to Col de Termin. The trail was a high pass contouring at about 2500m altitude. City La Cable was on the valley below. Grand Clambin mountain and Grand Clambin glacier were on the opposite site of the valley. Some parts were cut by newly formed deep gully. It was difficult to pass as there were many loose debris formed by landslide.
I arrived at path junction with the shorter route at 12:00a.m. and took lunch there. It was already 2 hours behind schedule. The route was very steep from there to Col de Louvie (2921m). The path was along debris and large boulders. There was no formal path and way marks were founded on boulders. I had to hop, climb and crawl over giant boulders. It was very tough even without the 18kg backpack. It was totally exhausted when I reached Col de Louvie at 1:30 p.m.
Col de Louvie to Col de Prafleuri
This was the most difficult part of the day. The terrain was undulating. I had to walk along lateral moraine and terminal moraine. Hopping and climbing down boulders were the normal practice. I was slide down several times in downhill. Moreover, I had to cross two tarns over some protruded rocks.
I had learnt the term “hailstorm” in geography lesson long time ago. I was the first time to encounter hailstorm which was very funny when dropping on my head with dong, dong, dong sound in the beginning. However, it was disgusting for the next three hour!!
Although this part was demanding, I was impressed by glaciers, tarns, streams, rivers and rapids. The landscape was fascinating and there was breathtaking view en route.
I arrived at Col de Prafleuri at 5:00 p.m. Stunning view was covered by heavy downpour. Besides hailstorm, thunderstorm was happening too. Downhill trail became muddy, slippery and became a small river. A small incident made me nervous when I needed to cross a small stream. This stream had changed into a flooding river and rapid as running water was flowing from glacier. I went to and fro to find a safe place to cross. Finally, I chose a level ground to cross in a metre-depth water level. Finally, I arrived at Cabane De Prafleur at 6:15 p.m. and still had time for a shower before dinner.
Wildlife
When I stepped on the grass land, grass hopper would jump forward, sideward and backward. Flowers were small in alpine area. Butterfly was flying among flowers for pollination. I would hear natural bird song from time to time. Cow fed on grass and drank water from water fountains. They had come to smell me. Other interesting animals included chamois, ibex, marmot and mountain goat.
Solitude
As I walked slowing, I set off early in the morning. However, I was overtaken by other hikers on route. Therefore, I was walking alone actually. My companion was the tranquil environment which inspired my deep thought. Sometimes, the tranquility was broken by song of birds, soaring sound of streams, rivers and waterfalls. They were so peaceful as in harmony with one another. I was wondering I was an audience listening philharmonic orchestra in a concert hall.
I recalled my memory on day 11. It was also a very tough day. I had walked already 9 hours after crossing the Moiry Glacier safely. The hut was only 100m above. I crawled up along steep scree slope from the glacier. I found a overlooking place to rest and had my last bread. Although it was raining, freezing cool, windy and exhausted, I really enjoyed sitting there admiring the breathtaking view. My heart was peaceful even in such a tough conditions. My heart was moved by the Chinese idiom. ( 太山崩於前而色不變 )
Threatening experience
Backpack was accidentally rolling 50m downhill.
Climbing up 100m height ladder in a vertical cliff
Close encounter with fighting cow
Walking under thunderstorm
Crossing an overhanging and swinging bridge
Crossing a rapid
The Walker’s Haute Route
Introduction
MacLehose Trail was 100 km in length across Hong Kong countryside. The Walker’s Haute Route was 180km in length. It linked up Mont Blanc ( 4807m: The highest mountain in Western Europe ) and Matterhorn ( 4478m : Landmark of Switzerland). I crossed 11 passes, gained more than 12,000m in height within two weeks. The trail was a pilgrimage to the Matterhorn. The Route was walking from Chamonix in France to Zermatt in Switzerland
This time was hiking not trekking. Trekking meant walking in high attitude ( normally over 3000m) with load carried by porter. Hiking meant walking under 3000m and all load was carried by myself. My full backpack was about 18kg while normal luggage weight limit was 20kg only in plane!
Normal day schedule was as follows :
6:00 a.m. Wake-up
6:30 a.m. Breakfast
7:00 a.m. Start ( 6 ~11 hr walking)
4~6 p.m. Finish
10:00 p.m. Sleep
I stayed in single room of hotel in villages or dormitory in mountain huts.
Trail Description
The trail was a good path and well-marked. Signposts were founded at major junctions. It was very easy to follow. The trail not only came across country side, but passed through small lane of villages as well as backyard of local house.
The path might be a well-paved track, narrow lane along hanging valley contouring hanging cliff and went through forest or larch tree.
There were some difficult parts too. I had to walk across scree slope, suspension bridge, hoping over boulders and walk over glaciers. Sometimes, I had to cross over streams, rivers and rapids.
To sum up, the level of difficulty was similar to that of the MacLehose Trail in most parts. I discovered delightful villages and remote hamlets, wander flower meadows and forests, skirt exquisite tarns that turn mountains on their heads and clamber beside glaciers.
Mountain Hut
Mountain huts were located among countryside in a suitable walking distance. There were always stunning views. Although mountain huts were in remote location, they provided modern facilities such as drinking water, electricity, food, coke, beer, wine, modern kitchen, hot water shower,…
It was a base for holiday hikers as well as serious climbers. Dormitory accommodation and half-pension were the norm. Dormitory meant sleeping in a bed in a large room which might be from 2 to 20. Half-pension meant dinner, bed and breakfast. Lunch was provided with extra cost. The price was in the range $350 ~ $500. It was reasonable in Switzerland standard.
Traditional dinner included :
Soup
Salad
Main course : pork, beef, steak or spaghetti.
Desert
The longest day
26 July 2006 Wednesday
Cabane Du Mont Fort to Cabane De Prafleuri
Distance : 14 km, Climb : 886m , Hiking time 10.5 hr.
I woke up at 6:30 a.m. and had a breakfast at 7:00a.m. I set off at 7:45a.m. The first part was along the very narrow footpath to Col de Termin. The trail was a high pass contouring at about 2500m altitude. City La Cable was on the valley below. Grand Clambin mountain and Grand Clambin glacier were on the opposite site of the valley. Some parts were cut by newly formed deep gully. It was difficult to pass as there were many loose debris formed by landslide.
I arrived at path junction with the shorter route at 12:00a.m. and took lunch there. It was already 2 hours behind schedule. The route was very steep from there to Col de Louvie (2921m). The path was along debris and large boulders. There was no formal path and way marks were founded on boulders. I had to hop, climb and crawl over giant boulders. It was very tough even without the 18kg backpack. It was totally exhausted when I reached Col de Louvie at 1:30 p.m.
Col de Louvie to Col de Prafleuri
This was the most difficult part of the day. The terrain was undulating. I had to walk along lateral moraine and terminal moraine. Hopping and climbing down boulders were the normal practice. I was slide down several times in downhill. Moreover, I had to cross two tarns over some protruded rocks.
I had learnt the term “hailstorm” in geography lesson long time ago. I was the first time to encounter hailstorm which was very funny when dropping on my head with dong, dong, dong sound in the beginning. However, it was disgusting for the next three hour!!
Although this part was demanding, I was impressed by glaciers, tarns, streams, rivers and rapids. The landscape was fascinating and there was breathtaking view en route.
I arrived at Col de Prafleuri at 5:00 p.m. Stunning view was covered by heavy downpour. Besides hailstorm, thunderstorm was happening too. Downhill trail became muddy, slippery and became a small river. A small incident made me nervous when I needed to cross a small stream. This stream had changed into a flooding river and rapid as running water was flowing from glacier. I went to and fro to find a safe place to cross. Finally, I chose a level ground to cross in a metre-depth water level. Finally, I arrived at Cabane De Prafleur at 6:15 p.m. and still had time for a shower before dinner.
Wildlife
When I stepped on the grass land, grass hopper would jump forward, sideward and backward. Flowers were small in alpine area. Butterfly was flying among flowers for pollination. I would hear natural bird song from time to time. Cow fed on grass and drank water from water fountains. They had come to smell me. Other interesting animals included chamois, ibex, marmot and mountain goat.
Solitude
As I walked slowing, I set off early in the morning. However, I was overtaken by other hikers on route. Therefore, I was walking alone actually. My companion was the tranquil environment which inspired my deep thought. Sometimes, the tranquility was broken by song of birds, soaring sound of streams, rivers and waterfalls. They were so peaceful as in harmony with one another. I was wondering I was an audience listening philharmonic orchestra in a concert hall.
I recalled my memory on day 11. It was also a very tough day. I had walked already 9 hours after crossing the Moiry Glacier safely. The hut was only 100m above. I crawled up along steep scree slope from the glacier. I found a overlooking place to rest and had my last bread. Although it was raining, freezing cool, windy and exhausted, I really enjoyed sitting there admiring the breathtaking view. My heart was peaceful even in such a tough conditions. My heart was moved by the Chinese idiom. ( 太山崩於前而色不變 )
Threatening experience
Backpack was accidentally rolling 50m downhill.
Climbing up 100m height ladder in a vertical cliff
Close encounter with fighting cow
Walking under thunderstorm
Crossing an overhanging and swinging bridge
Crossing a rapid
2008年 黄河源头 及 玉珠峰
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/2008#
D1 : Took a train to Lo Wu in the morning. Air shuttle bus could be easily found in Shen Zhen costing $20 and it took 45min to the airport. There was free internet after security check in the airport. The plane was going to 西宁 via Xian and arrived at about 7:00 p.m. Public bus was $21 to down town and it took about 30 min. Took a taxi ($6) to a ** hotel and $120 for a double room.
D2 : To buy ticket to 格尔木($131) of a lower berth. City walk in the afternoon and enjoyed local food. To make a call to other members who stayed in YHA.
D3 : They picked me up at 8:30a.m. and went to train station to buy ticket. The jeep would go to玛多. We took a lot of photo en route especially in 油菜花 及 日月亭 which I had been in the past. We arrived at about 8:00 p.m. and rent a local 4-wheel drive car at $900. However, I had serious mountain sickness in the night and had not taken a sleep at night.
D4 : It was raining at night and could not go today. I took a good sleep in the morning and walked to a small hill with thousands of 經梵。It was windy and cold. I was totally recovered after the short walk.
D5 : We went to 牛头碑(4 610m)、扎陵湖、鄂陵湖 today. The weather was fine and the road condition was very rough. 扎陵湖、鄂陵湖 were two great lake in 黄河源头.
D6 : It was a long driving day (10 hr) from 玛多 to西宁. There was nothing but sunshine. We arrived in YHA as about 4:30p.m. and took a shower there. I took a night train from西宁 to 格尔木. Mr.吉 from Nang Jing who was also a participant sleep opposite to me.
D7 : 8:30 a.m. arrived at格尔木. It was easy to find the gathering hotel and it was only 3 min. from train station. Mr.馬 was already there. I stayed at a room $120 and it was very clean with hot shower. City walk was done in the afternoon. The down town was small and nothing special to be seen there.
D8 : 8:30 a.m. welcome other participants from Hong Kong. We rent two taxi ($180 @) to 察汗爾鹽湖 及 萬丈鹽橋 in the afternoon. The trip took about 4 hours and the traveling distance was about 200km. Each cost was only $60 and it was very cheap!!
D9 : There were 11 participants and took two cars to 西大灘( 4100). We arrived at about 11:30 a.m. I had been there 7 years ago when I joint a tour to Tibet. I remembered that I had serious mountain sickness at that time. I had not any such symptoms. I walked to a small knoll before lunch and went to the glacier in the afternoon. The glacier seemed to be closed. However, we still could not reach there after 2-hrs walk. We needed to cross some rivers and passed through 青藏鐵路. We also walked along debris and terminal moraine. We returned when it started raining.
D10 : We drive into玉珠峰BC ( 5100m). The base camp was situated near to a river bank and it consisted of several large local tents with some smaller tents. One was kitchen and one was for eating. I slept with two others in a large tent while other 10 pp slept in the other. The lunch was a simple noodle only. We got our rented maintaining equipment and simple practice in using them. They were heavy and bulky. We went to snow line in the late afternoon. It took 50 min. up and 30min. down. It was quite a good for 高度適應. It was heavy downpour during night and the tent was leaking.
D11 : The weather was bad and could not go to C1. We went to glacier in the afternoon. 1.5-hr up and 1hr down. It was nothing special for me and it was just a walk. It was heavy rain when I was returning. There was a hailstorm in the late afternoon and was freezing cool.
D12 : It was raining in the morning and turned fine in the afternoon. We had a very short notice to start in 2 o'clock. My backpack was very heavy (16kg) with all climbing equipment. It was the first time for me to carry such a heavy load for climbing. It was demanding even in Hong Kong. We were blocked in a river bank. The river was too wide for us to jump over it and the velocity of river flowing was too fast for us to cross using bare foot. We were very disappointed to return because of the river while the weather was fine!!!
D13 : We started at 9:00a.m. As the water level was still high, we were picked up by 4-wheel drive car to cross the river. My backpack was much heavier (18kg). One local guide instructed me to walk faster, otherwise I had to back. I said that I had my own pace. Slowly! Slowly! Slowly! I could manage. We took some rest en route and reached a knoll which was 150m higher than BC. Local guide said that we could not go as foggy. I was surprised that cloudy could not go!?! The path was just along the ridge and they should know the path. After waiting for an hour, we went 100m higher and stopped again. They said that it was windy that we could not go!?! Crazy!!!
It was so common that weather was erratic in this altitude. We were prepared physically and psychological. I was surprised to hear from the local guides!!!
We waited for another hour till raining and the temperature was dropped from 10C to 2C. They told us that it was raining and was difficult to set up camp in C1. However, it seemed that we had no choice to split the team. Only I and Monica had considered to go to C1. They had said many reasons for retreating without mention any positive way to go. We had no choice and had to retreat back. The weather turned fine when we always went to BC. The failure of achieving the summit was 100% responsibility of the local guide. We were prepared to go to summit while local guides prepared to turn back only. We took a car( 3 hr) to 格尔木 same night and had a good hot shower.
D14 : To buy 冬蟲夏草($380) as a gift and got a ticket to 廣州. It was a soft sleeping berth($1114). I took the train at 23:51 and would arrive廣州 at 18:10(day3). The train was special for青藏鐵路. The facility included:
1. The bed was 2 feet wide and was divided into upper and lower.
2. Head lamp and a oxygen outlet in each bed.
3. Spacious storage room.
4. Room for 4 pp and could be locked inside.
5. There were only 2 soft-sleeping cars and each had only 32pp.
6. 3-washing basins and two toilets which were cleaned every 2-hour.
7. Un-limited supply of hot water.
8. LCD monitor for displaying information.
9. Set lunch/dinner ($15/$20).
10. Schedule as follows :
全程耗时：56:10 小时 全程距离：4980 公里
车站 到达时间 发车时间 走行时间（小时） 里程
1 拉萨 10:00 10:00 00:00 0
2 那曲 13:57 14:03 03:57 322
3 格尔木 23:31 23:51 13:31 1142
4 西宁 09:53 10:08 23:53 1972
5 兰州 13:00 13:15 27:00 2188
6 西安 20:49 21:02 34:49 2864
7 郑州 02:44 02:50 40:44 3375
8 武昌 07:38 07:53 45:38 3911
9 长沙 11:05 11:11 49:05 4273
10 广州 18:10 18:10 56:10 4980
Conclusion: 4 stupid reasons retreating!
Reasons Solution
1. Water level is high and cannot cross A simple 3m ladder is sufficient for crossing
2. Windy cannot go!
Cloudy cannot go! Stupid! High altitude should have wind and cloud.
3. Raining cannot go! Stupid! All equipment of participants are checked and are water proof. However, the equipment of guide is not water proof!
4. Raining cannot pitch the tent. If the guide cannot pitch the tent during raining, they should not be regarded as guide.
D1 : Took a train to Lo Wu in the morning. Air shuttle bus could be easily found in Shen Zhen costing $20 and it took 45min to the airport. There was free internet after security check in the airport. The plane was going to 西宁 via Xian and arrived at about 7:00 p.m. Public bus was $21 to down town and it took about 30 min. Took a taxi ($6) to a ** hotel and $120 for a double room.
D2 : To buy ticket to 格尔木($131) of a lower berth. City walk in the afternoon and enjoyed local food. To make a call to other members who stayed in YHA.
D3 : They picked me up at 8:30a.m. and went to train station to buy ticket. The jeep would go to玛多. We took a lot of photo en route especially in 油菜花 及 日月亭 which I had been in the past. We arrived at about 8:00 p.m. and rent a local 4-wheel drive car at $900. However, I had serious mountain sickness in the night and had not taken a sleep at night.
D4 : It was raining at night and could not go today. I took a good sleep in the morning and walked to a small hill with thousands of 經梵。It was windy and cold. I was totally recovered after the short walk.
D5 : We went to 牛头碑(4 610m)、扎陵湖、鄂陵湖 today. The weather was fine and the road condition was very rough. 扎陵湖、鄂陵湖 were two great lake in 黄河源头.
D6 : It was a long driving day (10 hr) from 玛多 to西宁. There was nothing but sunshine. We arrived in YHA as about 4:30p.m. and took a shower there. I took a night train from西宁 to 格尔木. Mr.吉 from Nang Jing who was also a participant sleep opposite to me.
D7 : 8:30 a.m. arrived at格尔木. It was easy to find the gathering hotel and it was only 3 min. from train station. Mr.馬 was already there. I stayed at a room $120 and it was very clean with hot shower. City walk was done in the afternoon. The down town was small and nothing special to be seen there.
D8 : 8:30 a.m. welcome other participants from Hong Kong. We rent two taxi ($180 @) to 察汗爾鹽湖 及 萬丈鹽橋 in the afternoon. The trip took about 4 hours and the traveling distance was about 200km. Each cost was only $60 and it was very cheap!!
D9 : There were 11 participants and took two cars to 西大灘( 4100). We arrived at about 11:30 a.m. I had been there 7 years ago when I joint a tour to Tibet. I remembered that I had serious mountain sickness at that time. I had not any such symptoms. I walked to a small knoll before lunch and went to the glacier in the afternoon. The glacier seemed to be closed. However, we still could not reach there after 2-hrs walk. We needed to cross some rivers and passed through 青藏鐵路. We also walked along debris and terminal moraine. We returned when it started raining.
D10 : We drive into玉珠峰BC ( 5100m). The base camp was situated near to a river bank and it consisted of several large local tents with some smaller tents. One was kitchen and one was for eating. I slept with two others in a large tent while other 10 pp slept in the other. The lunch was a simple noodle only. We got our rented maintaining equipment and simple practice in using them. They were heavy and bulky. We went to snow line in the late afternoon. It took 50 min. up and 30min. down. It was quite a good for 高度適應. It was heavy downpour during night and the tent was leaking.
D11 : The weather was bad and could not go to C1. We went to glacier in the afternoon. 1.5-hr up and 1hr down. It was nothing special for me and it was just a walk. It was heavy rain when I was returning. There was a hailstorm in the late afternoon and was freezing cool.
D12 : It was raining in the morning and turned fine in the afternoon. We had a very short notice to start in 2 o'clock. My backpack was very heavy (16kg) with all climbing equipment. It was the first time for me to carry such a heavy load for climbing. It was demanding even in Hong Kong. We were blocked in a river bank. The river was too wide for us to jump over it and the velocity of river flowing was too fast for us to cross using bare foot. We were very disappointed to return because of the river while the weather was fine!!!
D13 : We started at 9:00a.m. As the water level was still high, we were picked up by 4-wheel drive car to cross the river. My backpack was much heavier (18kg). One local guide instructed me to walk faster, otherwise I had to back. I said that I had my own pace. Slowly! Slowly! Slowly! I could manage. We took some rest en route and reached a knoll which was 150m higher than BC. Local guide said that we could not go as foggy. I was surprised that cloudy could not go!?! The path was just along the ridge and they should know the path. After waiting for an hour, we went 100m higher and stopped again. They said that it was windy that we could not go!?! Crazy!!!
It was so common that weather was erratic in this altitude. We were prepared physically and psychological. I was surprised to hear from the local guides!!!
We waited for another hour till raining and the temperature was dropped from 10C to 2C. They told us that it was raining and was difficult to set up camp in C1. However, it seemed that we had no choice to split the team. Only I and Monica had considered to go to C1. They had said many reasons for retreating without mention any positive way to go. We had no choice and had to retreat back. The weather turned fine when we always went to BC. The failure of achieving the summit was 100% responsibility of the local guide. We were prepared to go to summit while local guides prepared to turn back only. We took a car( 3 hr) to 格尔木 same night and had a good hot shower.
D14 : To buy 冬蟲夏草($380) as a gift and got a ticket to 廣州. It was a soft sleeping berth($1114). I took the train at 23:51 and would arrive廣州 at 18:10(day3). The train was special for青藏鐵路. The facility included:
1. The bed was 2 feet wide and was divided into upper and lower.
2. Head lamp and a oxygen outlet in each bed.
3. Spacious storage room.
4. Room for 4 pp and could be locked inside.
5. There were only 2 soft-sleeping cars and each had only 32pp.
6. 3-washing basins and two toilets which were cleaned every 2-hour.
7. Un-limited supply of hot water.
8. LCD monitor for displaying information.
9. Set lunch/dinner ($15/$20).
10. Schedule as follows :
全程耗时：56:10 小时 全程距离：4980 公里
车站 到达时间 发车时间 走行时间（小时） 里程
1 拉萨 10:00 10:00 00:00 0
2 那曲 13:57 14:03 03:57 322
3 格尔木 23:31 23:51 13:31 1142
4 西宁 09:53 10:08 23:53 1972
5 兰州 13:00 13:15 27:00 2188
6 西安 20:49 21:02 34:49 2864
7 郑州 02:44 02:50 40:44 3375
8 武昌 07:38 07:53 45:38 3911
9 长沙 11:05 11:11 49:05 4273
10 广州 18:10 18:10 56:10 4980
Conclusion: 4 stupid reasons retreating!
Reasons Solution
1. Water level is high and cannot cross A simple 3m ladder is sufficient for crossing
2. Windy cannot go!
Cloudy cannot go! Stupid! High altitude should have wind and cloud.
3. Raining cannot go! Stupid! All equipment of participants are checked and are water proof. However, the equipment of guide is not water proof!
4. Raining cannot pitch the tent. If the guide cannot pitch the tent during raining, they should not be regarded as guide.
Peru July~Aug 2007
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/Peru2007#
Hola : Un-Dos-Tres
I think no one know these words as they are Spanish. Hola means "Hello" while Un-Dos-Tres means "One-two-three". These simple words are useful in my recent trip to Peru.
Where is Peru?
Peru is a country in South America and its capital is Lima. The official language is Spanish. The population is 27 million. Peru is far from Hong Kong. The flight to Lima is via Amsterdam and the flight time is about 24 hours. The highlight of Peru is Machu Picchu which is one of the new seven wonder of the world.
Inca Trail
I jointed a 4-days trekking tour( Inca Trail ) to Machu Picchu. The Inca trail was 50 km in length and was divided into 4 days. I arrived at the Machu Picchu in early morning of the 4th day. I had booked the tour at April through internet. The cost was US$ 400 with US$ 200 as deposit. Once I arrived at the Cuzco that was the access city of Machu Picchu, I had to pay the balance to the trekking company.
The trekking schedule
I woke up at 6:30a.m. I was served with a basin of hot water for washing and a cup of colca tea. 7:00a.m. was the breakfast time and set off at 7:30a.m. . The lunch was a full course with starter, main course, desert and coffee & tea en route. Afternoon tea was served when I arrived at the camp site at 5:00 p.m.. Dinner was served afterward. The meal was similar standard in the city. I slept a tent myself with US$ 15 single supplement.
The Inca trail was easy to walk and the difficulty level was similar to Maclehose trail. The most difficult section was the Dead Woman Pass with 4200m in altitude. I was the last one to reach the pass.
The trekking group consisted of 10 people. Five was from Idaho in America and two was from Chicago. Two was from New Zealand. We were served by 17 people including guides, cookers and porters.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu processes the highest quality of architectural development and Inca Masonry art. It also owes a great part of its beauty to the surrounding landscape and the majestic location of the city.
I arrived at the Sun-Gate at 7:00 a.m. in the 4th trekking day and the first glimpse of Machu Picchu was deeply impressed me. The view was breath-taking and all people were taking picture there. It took another hour to reach Machu Picchu. I had walked through every house, gates, windows and steps. Moreover, I also hiked to the outstanding background peak which was called Wayna Picchu.
Nazca Lines
Besides Machu Picchu, I also visited Nazca Lines which were mysterious patterns drawn in the desert. The reasons and purpose of these lines were still unknown. In order to see them, I got on a small plane carrying five people only ( US$ 50 ) to fly to the sky. The flight took about 35 minutes and was very interesting.
Mt. Misti
Another highlight is Mt. Mist. The height is 5825m and it is one of mountain range in Andes. The access city is Arequipa. The normal price for climbing is US$ 60 for group departure.
However, I could not find a group to go when I arrived at Arequipa. The tour agent suggested me that I still could go if I paid US$ 150. I had to no choice and had to accept the offer.
My trekking group consisted of me, a guide and a porter only. I was pick-up at 8:00 a.m. in the hotel. It took an hour to drive to 3415m where we set off. We walked very slowing without any difficulty and arrived at the campsite in altitude 4600m. The temperature was not cold in day time. However, the temperature had turned into freezing cold at night. I had to wear 2 super-warms clothes, 2 fleece pullover and one fleece vest and slept inside the down sleeping bag. The camp site had only my group. It was very peaceful and quiet. The tranquil environment was clustered by the street lamp of Arequipa.
Summit Day
I woke up at 3:00a.m. The breakfast was just a cup of colca tea. I thought the temperature was -10oC. I wore 8 layers of clothes. The hike was going on under the light of my head lamp and stars. Initially, I took 5 minutes rest after 30 minutes walk. The trail was not difficult to hike. The higher I walked, the thinner air I breathed. The more demanding I needed to tackle. Consequently, I took 5 minutes rest after 20 minutes walk, 5 minutes rest after 10 minutes walk, and 5 minutes after 5 minutes. Finally, I rested for every 30 steps, 20 steps or even 10 steps. The water in the tube of water bag was even frozen after 4 hours-walk.
I took a longer rest in a saddle and ate a power bar. I saw the summit and the guide told me that one more hour could arrive at the summit. I breathed for every 30 steps, 20 steps, 10 steps and even 5 steps. Finally I arrive at the summit within an hour and I was totally exhausted. The final push was the most demanding part in my life. I was extremely excited when I stood in the summit that was the highest trekking peak in my life. I overcame mountain sickness and fatigue, and used up every once of energy to achieve.
I stood in the summit and surrounding mountains were under you. I felt superior. The breath-taking was rewarding, memorable and everlasting.
The trek from base camp to summit was 7 hours. Downhill trek was very interesting and the guide led me using another route. The Mt. Misti was a perfect cylindrical volcano cone. The volcano ash was soft and fine. The ash was as fine as sand in the beach and deposited along the valley. We slide down along the ash. I had to slide as the ash was very soft and I could not walk or stood on it. It took only one hour back to camp site. The slide was amusing as well as tiring job as it last continuously for an hour!
After an hour rest in the camp site, I walked another 2 hours downhill. Pick-up car was already waiting there to drive me back to hotel at 3:00 p.m.
Language Difficulty
Peru is a Spanish speaking country. England Language is spoken in major cites and hotels only. If I need to order food in restaurant or buy something in the market, Spanish is the only language for communication. I had taken an elementary Spanish course before the trip.
The commonly used vocabulary were as follows :
Un One Hola Hello
Dos Two Adios Goodbye
Tres Three Si Yes
Diez Ten Gracias Thank You
Buenos Dias Good Morning
Pollo Chicken Buenas Tardes Good Afternoon
Pescado Fish Buenas Noches Good Night
Cuarto Quarter Mas More
Menu Set Dinner Julio July
These are very useful in communication.
Expenditure
The living standard is not very high in Peru. HK$ 10 is sufficient to have a lunch there. HK$ 100 is enough to have a dinner in a very good restaurant. US$ 20 is tour fee for a whole day tour. I get a decent single room at a cost of US$ 20 only. The major share of the expenditure is the air ticket was HK$ 18,000. To conclude, Peru travel is easy and value for money. The local is kind and helpful. I really enjoy in the trip.
Hola : Un-Dos-Tres
I think no one know these words as they are Spanish. Hola means "Hello" while Un-Dos-Tres means "One-two-three". These simple words are useful in my recent trip to Peru.
Where is Peru?
Peru is a country in South America and its capital is Lima. The official language is Spanish. The population is 27 million. Peru is far from Hong Kong. The flight to Lima is via Amsterdam and the flight time is about 24 hours. The highlight of Peru is Machu Picchu which is one of the new seven wonder of the world.
Inca Trail
I jointed a 4-days trekking tour( Inca Trail ) to Machu Picchu. The Inca trail was 50 km in length and was divided into 4 days. I arrived at the Machu Picchu in early morning of the 4th day. I had booked the tour at April through internet. The cost was US$ 400 with US$ 200 as deposit. Once I arrived at the Cuzco that was the access city of Machu Picchu, I had to pay the balance to the trekking company.
The trekking schedule
I woke up at 6:30a.m. I was served with a basin of hot water for washing and a cup of colca tea. 7:00a.m. was the breakfast time and set off at 7:30a.m. . The lunch was a full course with starter, main course, desert and coffee & tea en route. Afternoon tea was served when I arrived at the camp site at 5:00 p.m.. Dinner was served afterward. The meal was similar standard in the city. I slept a tent myself with US$ 15 single supplement.
The Inca trail was easy to walk and the difficulty level was similar to Maclehose trail. The most difficult section was the Dead Woman Pass with 4200m in altitude. I was the last one to reach the pass.
The trekking group consisted of 10 people. Five was from Idaho in America and two was from Chicago. Two was from New Zealand. We were served by 17 people including guides, cookers and porters.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu processes the highest quality of architectural development and Inca Masonry art. It also owes a great part of its beauty to the surrounding landscape and the majestic location of the city.
I arrived at the Sun-Gate at 7:00 a.m. in the 4th trekking day and the first glimpse of Machu Picchu was deeply impressed me. The view was breath-taking and all people were taking picture there. It took another hour to reach Machu Picchu. I had walked through every house, gates, windows and steps. Moreover, I also hiked to the outstanding background peak which was called Wayna Picchu.
Nazca Lines
Besides Machu Picchu, I also visited Nazca Lines which were mysterious patterns drawn in the desert. The reasons and purpose of these lines were still unknown. In order to see them, I got on a small plane carrying five people only ( US$ 50 ) to fly to the sky. The flight took about 35 minutes and was very interesting.
Mt. Misti
Another highlight is Mt. Mist. The height is 5825m and it is one of mountain range in Andes. The access city is Arequipa. The normal price for climbing is US$ 60 for group departure.
However, I could not find a group to go when I arrived at Arequipa. The tour agent suggested me that I still could go if I paid US$ 150. I had to no choice and had to accept the offer.
My trekking group consisted of me, a guide and a porter only. I was pick-up at 8:00 a.m. in the hotel. It took an hour to drive to 3415m where we set off. We walked very slowing without any difficulty and arrived at the campsite in altitude 4600m. The temperature was not cold in day time. However, the temperature had turned into freezing cold at night. I had to wear 2 super-warms clothes, 2 fleece pullover and one fleece vest and slept inside the down sleeping bag. The camp site had only my group. It was very peaceful and quiet. The tranquil environment was clustered by the street lamp of Arequipa.
Summit Day
I woke up at 3:00a.m. The breakfast was just a cup of colca tea. I thought the temperature was -10oC. I wore 8 layers of clothes. The hike was going on under the light of my head lamp and stars. Initially, I took 5 minutes rest after 30 minutes walk. The trail was not difficult to hike. The higher I walked, the thinner air I breathed. The more demanding I needed to tackle. Consequently, I took 5 minutes rest after 20 minutes walk, 5 minutes rest after 10 minutes walk, and 5 minutes after 5 minutes. Finally, I rested for every 30 steps, 20 steps or even 10 steps. The water in the tube of water bag was even frozen after 4 hours-walk.
I took a longer rest in a saddle and ate a power bar. I saw the summit and the guide told me that one more hour could arrive at the summit. I breathed for every 30 steps, 20 steps, 10 steps and even 5 steps. Finally I arrive at the summit within an hour and I was totally exhausted. The final push was the most demanding part in my life. I was extremely excited when I stood in the summit that was the highest trekking peak in my life. I overcame mountain sickness and fatigue, and used up every once of energy to achieve.
I stood in the summit and surrounding mountains were under you. I felt superior. The breath-taking was rewarding, memorable and everlasting.
The trek from base camp to summit was 7 hours. Downhill trek was very interesting and the guide led me using another route. The Mt. Misti was a perfect cylindrical volcano cone. The volcano ash was soft and fine. The ash was as fine as sand in the beach and deposited along the valley. We slide down along the ash. I had to slide as the ash was very soft and I could not walk or stood on it. It took only one hour back to camp site. The slide was amusing as well as tiring job as it last continuously for an hour!
After an hour rest in the camp site, I walked another 2 hours downhill. Pick-up car was already waiting there to drive me back to hotel at 3:00 p.m.
Language Difficulty
Peru is a Spanish speaking country. England Language is spoken in major cites and hotels only. If I need to order food in restaurant or buy something in the market, Spanish is the only language for communication. I had taken an elementary Spanish course before the trip.
The commonly used vocabulary were as follows :
Un One Hola Hello
Dos Two Adios Goodbye
Tres Three Si Yes
Diez Ten Gracias Thank You
Buenos Dias Good Morning
Pollo Chicken Buenas Tardes Good Afternoon
Pescado Fish Buenas Noches Good Night
Cuarto Quarter Mas More
Menu Set Dinner Julio July
These are very useful in communication.
Expenditure
The living standard is not very high in Peru. HK$ 10 is sufficient to have a lunch there. HK$ 100 is enough to have a dinner in a very good restaurant. US$ 20 is tour fee for a whole day tour. I get a decent single room at a cost of US$ 20 only. The major share of the expenditure is the air ticket was HK$ 18,000. To conclude, Peru travel is easy and value for money. The local is kind and helpful. I really enjoy in the trip.
PNG Loloata Diving Feb 2008
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/PNGLoloataTrip2008
I have gone to Loloata for diving in the Lunar New Year. Our dive team consists of 4 divers and join Suns and Seas diving package at cost $15200.
We set off on 6 Feb and return on 12 Feb.
D1
Departure time is 19:00 and 7 other divers. The flight is via Manila and total flight time is about 7 hours. We arrive at 5:00 a.m. local time. ( HK time is 3:00 a.m.). Pick-up bus travel 15 min. to pier and speed boat is another 15 min. The first dive begins at 10:30 a.m. after 2 hr sleep and 2 dive in the afternoon. The sea is very choppy in the first dive. So many divers are vomit and feed the fish.
D2-D6
3-4 dives daily. Diving schedule is 2 dives in the morning. Travel time is about 30min. and dive in the open sea. The fish life is very good. However, the visibility is not so good. Current is moderate and water temperature is 29C. Soft drink and towel are served between dives. Afternoon dive is close too the resort and the visibility is only 10m.
Fish life
The highlights are "Pymgy Seahorse" and " Lacy Scorpion Fish". There are many naudibranch, lionfish, anemone, shrimp, shrimp, shrimp and some unknown fish.
Resort
The room is spacious with sea view balcony. The food is ok good and the arrangement is very good. However, the dive boat is little bit small.
I think Loloata is a very nice place to dive and will be do better in dry season.
I have gone to Loloata for diving in the Lunar New Year. Our dive team consists of 4 divers and join Suns and Seas diving package at cost $15200.
We set off on 6 Feb and return on 12 Feb.
D1
Departure time is 19:00 and 7 other divers. The flight is via Manila and total flight time is about 7 hours. We arrive at 5:00 a.m. local time. ( HK time is 3:00 a.m.). Pick-up bus travel 15 min. to pier and speed boat is another 15 min. The first dive begins at 10:30 a.m. after 2 hr sleep and 2 dive in the afternoon. The sea is very choppy in the first dive. So many divers are vomit and feed the fish.
D2-D6
3-4 dives daily. Diving schedule is 2 dives in the morning. Travel time is about 30min. and dive in the open sea. The fish life is very good. However, the visibility is not so good. Current is moderate and water temperature is 29C. Soft drink and towel are served between dives. Afternoon dive is close too the resort and the visibility is only 10m.
Fish life
The highlights are "Pymgy Seahorse" and " Lacy Scorpion Fish". There are many naudibranch, lionfish, anemone, shrimp, shrimp, shrimp and some unknown fish.
Resort
The room is spacious with sea view balcony. The food is ok good and the arrangement is very good. However, the dive boat is little bit small.
I think Loloata is a very nice place to dive and will be do better in dry season.
South America Trip D27 ~D33
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Torres_Del_Paine#
Day 27 Date : 25 Nov 2008 Drake Passage
It was another day for sailing through Drake Passage. The wave was a little bid bigger. Some tablemates felt seasick. Roger, the active guide, could not eat in dinner too. I had not slept well on yesterday night and went back to room after breakfast. I also went to sleep after lunch again. I went to take wave in the captain room at 4:30 p.m. and this was the activity today. The cruise staff advised US$110~120 tip for each passenger. I thought their work demonstrated the professional standard.
Day 28 Date : 26 Nov 2008 Drake Passage
I waked up at 8:00 a.m. and settled the bill after breakfast. We arrived at Cape Horn at 11:00 a.m. Cape Horn was the southern in the South America. It had historical value but it was just a channel for me. There were several dolphins swimming in front of the ship. They were very funny and it was the first time to take photo and video of dolphins. As the shuttle speed was too high (1/1000 s), the picture was not good as there was not enough exposure.
We shared and copied one another's good photos and video after lunch. A guided tour to engine room was held at 5:00 p.m. and it was very funny. We were glad that the captain was dinner with us. Mr. Wu from Xinjiang and Roger were invited to sit with the captain. It was the honour of Chinese. I took picture with all Chinese for memory. We went to outside deck for taking sunset photos after dinner. The color of sky was changing from blue to golden yellow. It was really attractive.
The ship life was wonderful. I had a comfortable room with delicious food in these 12 days. It was so harmony with a group of Chinese from other part of the world. We smiled and played together. I was really happy. However, it was quite lazy in these days. I would turn into single from tomorrow and the real trekking trip would start.
Day 29 Date : 27 Nov 2008 Ushuaia
I waked up at 5:30 a.m. but I still could not see the sun rise as it was cloudy. Breakfast was at 6:15a.m. and we disembark at 7:30 a.m. I walked uphill to YHA after saying goodbye.
I was allocated to a four bed room($42). The room was small and jammed with many stuff by two Japanese guests. I went to supermarket after a short sleep. I wrote diary after lunch. It was a rest day. Although it was raining outside, the view was fascinating from the common room.
I recalled the activities of ship that included lecture, movie, landing and Zodiac cruise. Each meal took at least one hour. The life was very rich and committed. There were 13 Chinese in the ship ( 3 Hong Kong, 6 Los Angeles, 6 Taiwan & 2 China). Now I turned back to quiet and felt quite lone in this moment.
There was another 2 third of the trip. Trekking part would start tomorrow. It was another hard day from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales (17 hours). I booked the Hostel Nateles(YHA) at $12,000 ( HK$ 150) Chilean Peso.
It was a rest day and also a turning point. Lazy life was finished. It was long time without staying in YHA. I cooked spaghetti with ham & sausage. However, besides cooking main course, other would eat steak & drank red wine. It was quite different from the norm of backpacker.
Day 30 Date : 28 Nov 2008 Ushuaia ~ Puerto Natales
I waked up at 4:00a.m. as I needed to take the bus at 5:00a.m. I left behind a Hong Kong postcard in YHA. I walked about 20 minutes to bus station in cooling raining morning. I saw many backpackers waiting there. I discovered the Taiwan backpacker of the same Antarctica trip in the bus station. I got on the bus at 5:20 a.m.
I slept very well once I was in the bus as I only slept for 4 hours only yesterday. The bus was a cama-class bus. I waked up and arrived at Rio Grande at 8:00 a.m. Breakfast was served afterward and I arrived at San Sebastian ( Argentina border ) at 11:00 a.m. and Chilean entrance at 12:00 a.m.
The road from San Sebastian to Bahia Azul was gravel one so that the speed of bus was very slow and I arrived at Strait of Magellan at 2:30 p.m. The boat had left just a minute. I waited for an hour. It was cloudy in the last time and the weather was fine this time. I lucky saw two little dolphins swimming when crossing the strait. The bus arrived at Punta Arena at 6:40 p.m. 40 minutes behind the schedule.
I went to "Buses Pachero" office to change ticket (7:30 p.m. bus) to Puerto Natales. The ride was 249km in 3 hours. I saw some Flamingoes on the way and finally arrived at 11:00 p.m. 18 hours from Ushuaia! It was from dawn to mid-night.
It took 15 minutes walk to YHA including drawing money ($150,000) from Banco de Chile. One HK$ 1 was equal $80 Chilean dollars. The YHA building was very modern and was the best one I had stayed. One bed cost $12,000 a night in the 8-person room. I felt it was very deluxe as I was the only guest that night. The common room was spacious and had 6 computers. I was allocated two half-hour coupons for using computer when checking in.
Day 31 Date : 29 Nov 2008 Puerto Natales
The dining room had a very good view overlooking lake with the shadow of snow-capped mountains. Although the mountains were not so great as in the Antarctica, they were graceful. The check-in counter helped me to book the Torres Del Paine's accommodation and transportation. Its service was efficient and she email immediately and confirmed everything by 7:00p.m. Moreover, the lady was very beautiful.
I took my dirty clothes to laundry($2,000) after breakfast and walked to sea shore & downtown. I was surprised that the town was very quiet as it was already 10:30 a.m. It seemed that people were still sleeping. It was very different from the description from the Lonely Planet. "If you did not want to sleep on sleep, you must make reservation in peak season." Lunch ($2,000) was soap, chicken rice, desert and tea. I got back clothes at 2:00 p.m.
I took a short slept in the afternoon. A U.S. backpacker came in the room. I went to supermarket to buy food for next 5 days at 5:00 p.m. The backpack was quite heavy and I needed to carry myself.
One more Japanese came in the room at night. I saw other room at 9:00 p.m. and observed there were only three people tonight in the hostel. It was still raining in the afternoon. I hoped the weather was fine tomorrow as it was the new horizon!
Day 32 Date : 30 Nov 2008 Refugio Grey
The bus departed to Torres Del Paine at 8:00a.m. and arrived at the entrance ( Laguna Amargo ) at 10:00 a.m. The distance was 145km. The entrance fee was $15,000. The bus continued to Refugio Pudeto. I took the ferry (12:00) to Paine Grande.
Finally, I started at 1:00 p.m. I though my weight of backpack was 18kg and had to walk slowly. I arrived at Laguna Los Potas after 2 hours' walk. I thought it was one half. However, I discovered that it was only one quarter. I arrived at Lago Grey at 4:00 p.m. and saw some flowing ice on the lake. I was surprised that these ice appeared in such a low altitude ( ~1000m).
The path was not difficult to walk but the heavy load made me tired. I was overtaken by all tourists and got used to it. I would said "Hola( Hello )" when I met other people and said "Gracias (Thank you)" when I requested other to give way.
I arrived at the Refugio Grey at 7:00 p.m. The trail was only 11km and I spent 6 hours in the walk. The hut was very old and my bed was in a 6-bed room. I was informed that there was no kitchen in the hut. How come! I carried 5 days' food! It was unbelievable. I wanted to order the dinner and they said that it was full and finished! What kind of hut? What kind of manner? I was innocent but walked slow. I came there from the other side of the world. I did not come there for being punished!
I did not know how to do at that moment and went to have a shower to clam down. One coke cost expansive $HK 25. I went to campsite to find any solution and wanted to borrow cook set from them. Finally, I went back to the hut and booked the breakfast and packed lunch tomorrow ( $5000 + $7000). One 600ml water cost $1500 and it was more expansive than Maldives.
I discussed with the hut manager about using their kitchen. They agreed that I could use it after 9:00 p.m. I cooked my dinner ( one noodle + 3 ham + 3 beacon + vegetable) at 9:10 p.m. The rest of the food was given to the hut manager as present. I slept at 11:00 p.m.
Day 33 Date : 1 Dec 2008 Mountain Lodge
I waked up at 6:45 a.m. and walked to the lake shore. It was peaceful as no one waked up so early. Some floating ice was in the lake and the water temperature was about 0oC. The air temperature was 10oC. I was very comfortable even I only wore one jacket. The breakfast was milk porridge + bread + 3 cheese + tea & orange juice. It was very good and I drank 6 cups of orange juice.
I went to the Big Ice Hike and Kayaking for joining Ice Climb. The cost was super pricy $100,000. We needed to take the Zodiac(15 min) at 9:00 a.m. to the rim of glacier. 10 minutes walk was needed to the glacier. I wore crampon and harness before walking on ice. I was taught some basic walking skill which was different from trekking. I needed to rope up for climbing or descending steep slope. I thought it was tedious. No way! Safety was only one!
Day 27 Date : 25 Nov 2008 Drake Passage
It was another day for sailing through Drake Passage. The wave was a little bid bigger. Some tablemates felt seasick. Roger, the active guide, could not eat in dinner too. I had not slept well on yesterday night and went back to room after breakfast. I also went to sleep after lunch again. I went to take wave in the captain room at 4:30 p.m. and this was the activity today. The cruise staff advised US$110~120 tip for each passenger. I thought their work demonstrated the professional standard.
Day 28 Date : 26 Nov 2008 Drake Passage
I waked up at 8:00 a.m. and settled the bill after breakfast. We arrived at Cape Horn at 11:00 a.m. Cape Horn was the southern in the South America. It had historical value but it was just a channel for me. There were several dolphins swimming in front of the ship. They were very funny and it was the first time to take photo and video of dolphins. As the shuttle speed was too high (1/1000 s), the picture was not good as there was not enough exposure.
We shared and copied one another's good photos and video after lunch. A guided tour to engine room was held at 5:00 p.m. and it was very funny. We were glad that the captain was dinner with us. Mr. Wu from Xinjiang and Roger were invited to sit with the captain. It was the honour of Chinese. I took picture with all Chinese for memory. We went to outside deck for taking sunset photos after dinner. The color of sky was changing from blue to golden yellow. It was really attractive.
The ship life was wonderful. I had a comfortable room with delicious food in these 12 days. It was so harmony with a group of Chinese from other part of the world. We smiled and played together. I was really happy. However, it was quite lazy in these days. I would turn into single from tomorrow and the real trekking trip would start.
Day 29 Date : 27 Nov 2008 Ushuaia
I waked up at 5:30 a.m. but I still could not see the sun rise as it was cloudy. Breakfast was at 6:15a.m. and we disembark at 7:30 a.m. I walked uphill to YHA after saying goodbye.
I was allocated to a four bed room($42). The room was small and jammed with many stuff by two Japanese guests. I went to supermarket after a short sleep. I wrote diary after lunch. It was a rest day. Although it was raining outside, the view was fascinating from the common room.
I recalled the activities of ship that included lecture, movie, landing and Zodiac cruise. Each meal took at least one hour. The life was very rich and committed. There were 13 Chinese in the ship ( 3 Hong Kong, 6 Los Angeles, 6 Taiwan & 2 China). Now I turned back to quiet and felt quite lone in this moment.
There was another 2 third of the trip. Trekking part would start tomorrow. It was another hard day from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales (17 hours). I booked the Hostel Nateles(YHA) at $12,000 ( HK$ 150) Chilean Peso.
It was a rest day and also a turning point. Lazy life was finished. It was long time without staying in YHA. I cooked spaghetti with ham & sausage. However, besides cooking main course, other would eat steak & drank red wine. It was quite different from the norm of backpacker.
Day 30 Date : 28 Nov 2008 Ushuaia ~ Puerto Natales
I waked up at 4:00a.m. as I needed to take the bus at 5:00a.m. I left behind a Hong Kong postcard in YHA. I walked about 20 minutes to bus station in cooling raining morning. I saw many backpackers waiting there. I discovered the Taiwan backpacker of the same Antarctica trip in the bus station. I got on the bus at 5:20 a.m.
I slept very well once I was in the bus as I only slept for 4 hours only yesterday. The bus was a cama-class bus. I waked up and arrived at Rio Grande at 8:00 a.m. Breakfast was served afterward and I arrived at San Sebastian ( Argentina border ) at 11:00 a.m. and Chilean entrance at 12:00 a.m.
The road from San Sebastian to Bahia Azul was gravel one so that the speed of bus was very slow and I arrived at Strait of Magellan at 2:30 p.m. The boat had left just a minute. I waited for an hour. It was cloudy in the last time and the weather was fine this time. I lucky saw two little dolphins swimming when crossing the strait. The bus arrived at Punta Arena at 6:40 p.m. 40 minutes behind the schedule.
I went to "Buses Pachero" office to change ticket (7:30 p.m. bus) to Puerto Natales. The ride was 249km in 3 hours. I saw some Flamingoes on the way and finally arrived at 11:00 p.m. 18 hours from Ushuaia! It was from dawn to mid-night.
It took 15 minutes walk to YHA including drawing money ($150,000) from Banco de Chile. One HK$ 1 was equal $80 Chilean dollars. The YHA building was very modern and was the best one I had stayed. One bed cost $12,000 a night in the 8-person room. I felt it was very deluxe as I was the only guest that night. The common room was spacious and had 6 computers. I was allocated two half-hour coupons for using computer when checking in.
Day 31 Date : 29 Nov 2008 Puerto Natales
The dining room had a very good view overlooking lake with the shadow of snow-capped mountains. Although the mountains were not so great as in the Antarctica, they were graceful. The check-in counter helped me to book the Torres Del Paine's accommodation and transportation. Its service was efficient and she email immediately and confirmed everything by 7:00p.m. Moreover, the lady was very beautiful.
I took my dirty clothes to laundry($2,000) after breakfast and walked to sea shore & downtown. I was surprised that the town was very quiet as it was already 10:30 a.m. It seemed that people were still sleeping. It was very different from the description from the Lonely Planet. "If you did not want to sleep on sleep, you must make reservation in peak season." Lunch ($2,000) was soap, chicken rice, desert and tea. I got back clothes at 2:00 p.m.
I took a short slept in the afternoon. A U.S. backpacker came in the room. I went to supermarket to buy food for next 5 days at 5:00 p.m. The backpack was quite heavy and I needed to carry myself.
One more Japanese came in the room at night. I saw other room at 9:00 p.m. and observed there were only three people tonight in the hostel. It was still raining in the afternoon. I hoped the weather was fine tomorrow as it was the new horizon!
Day 32 Date : 30 Nov 2008 Refugio Grey
The bus departed to Torres Del Paine at 8:00a.m. and arrived at the entrance ( Laguna Amargo ) at 10:00 a.m. The distance was 145km. The entrance fee was $15,000. The bus continued to Refugio Pudeto. I took the ferry (12:00) to Paine Grande.
Finally, I started at 1:00 p.m. I though my weight of backpack was 18kg and had to walk slowly. I arrived at Laguna Los Potas after 2 hours' walk. I thought it was one half. However, I discovered that it was only one quarter. I arrived at Lago Grey at 4:00 p.m. and saw some flowing ice on the lake. I was surprised that these ice appeared in such a low altitude ( ~1000m).
The path was not difficult to walk but the heavy load made me tired. I was overtaken by all tourists and got used to it. I would said "Hola( Hello )" when I met other people and said "Gracias (Thank you)" when I requested other to give way.
I arrived at the Refugio Grey at 7:00 p.m. The trail was only 11km and I spent 6 hours in the walk. The hut was very old and my bed was in a 6-bed room. I was informed that there was no kitchen in the hut. How come! I carried 5 days' food! It was unbelievable. I wanted to order the dinner and they said that it was full and finished! What kind of hut? What kind of manner? I was innocent but walked slow. I came there from the other side of the world. I did not come there for being punished!
I did not know how to do at that moment and went to have a shower to clam down. One coke cost expansive $HK 25. I went to campsite to find any solution and wanted to borrow cook set from them. Finally, I went back to the hut and booked the breakfast and packed lunch tomorrow ( $5000 + $7000). One 600ml water cost $1500 and it was more expansive than Maldives.
I discussed with the hut manager about using their kitchen. They agreed that I could use it after 9:00 p.m. I cooked my dinner ( one noodle + 3 ham + 3 beacon + vegetable) at 9:10 p.m. The rest of the food was given to the hut manager as present. I slept at 11:00 p.m.
Day 33 Date : 1 Dec 2008 Mountain Lodge
I waked up at 6:45 a.m. and walked to the lake shore. It was peaceful as no one waked up so early. Some floating ice was in the lake and the water temperature was about 0oC. The air temperature was 10oC. I was very comfortable even I only wore one jacket. The breakfast was milk porridge + bread + 3 cheese + tea & orange juice. It was very good and I drank 6 cups of orange juice.
I went to the Big Ice Hike and Kayaking for joining Ice Climb. The cost was super pricy $100,000. We needed to take the Zodiac(15 min) at 9:00 a.m. to the rim of glacier. 10 minutes walk was needed to the glacier. I wore crampon and harness before walking on ice. I was taught some basic walking skill which was different from trekking. I needed to rope up for climbing or descending steep slope. I thought it was tedious. No way! Safety was only one!
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