South America Trip D27 ~D33

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Day 27 Date : 25 Nov 2008 Drake Passage

It was another day for sailing through Drake Passage. The wave was a little bid bigger. Some tablemates felt seasick. Roger, the active guide, could not eat in dinner too. I had not slept well on yesterday night and went back to room after breakfast. I also went to sleep after lunch again. I went to take wave in the captain room at 4:30 p.m. and this was the activity today. The cruise staff advised US$110~120 tip for each passenger. I thought their work demonstrated the professional standard.

Day 28 Date : 26 Nov 2008 Drake Passage

I waked up at 8:00 a.m. and settled the bill after breakfast. We arrived at Cape Horn at 11:00 a.m. Cape Horn was the southern in the South America. It had historical value but it was just a channel for me. There were several dolphins swimming in front of the ship. They were very funny and it was the first time to take photo and video of dolphins. As the shuttle speed was too high (1/1000 s), the picture was not good as there was not enough exposure.

We shared and copied one another's good photos and video after lunch. A guided tour to engine room was held at 5:00 p.m. and it was very funny. We were glad that the captain was dinner with us. Mr. Wu from Xinjiang and Roger were invited to sit with the captain. It was the honour of Chinese. I took picture with all Chinese for memory. We went to outside deck for taking sunset photos after dinner. The color of sky was changing from blue to golden yellow. It was really attractive.

The ship life was wonderful. I had a comfortable room with delicious food in these 12 days. It was so harmony with a group of Chinese from other part of the world. We smiled and played together. I was really happy. However, it was quite lazy in these days. I would turn into single from tomorrow and the real trekking trip would start.

Day 29 Date : 27 Nov 2008 Ushuaia

I waked up at 5:30 a.m. but I still could not see the sun rise as it was cloudy. Breakfast was at 6:15a.m. and we disembark at 7:30 a.m. I walked uphill to YHA after saying goodbye.

I was allocated to a four bed room($42). The room was small and jammed with many stuff by two Japanese guests. I went to supermarket after a short sleep. I wrote diary after lunch. It was a rest day. Although it was raining outside, the view was fascinating from the common room.

I recalled the activities of ship that included lecture, movie, landing and Zodiac cruise. Each meal took at least one hour. The life was very rich and committed. There were 13 Chinese in the ship ( 3 Hong Kong, 6 Los Angeles, 6 Taiwan & 2 China). Now I turned back to quiet and felt quite lone in this moment.

There was another 2 third of the trip. Trekking part would start tomorrow. It was another hard day from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales (17 hours). I booked the Hostel Nateles(YHA) at $12,000 ( HK$ 150) Chilean Peso.

It was a rest day and also a turning point. Lazy life was finished. It was long time without staying in YHA. I cooked spaghetti with ham & sausage. However, besides cooking main course, other would eat steak & drank red wine. It was quite different from the norm of backpacker.


Day 30 Date : 28 Nov 2008 Ushuaia ~ Puerto Natales

I waked up at 4:00a.m. as I needed to take the bus at 5:00a.m. I left behind a Hong Kong postcard in YHA. I walked about 20 minutes to bus station in cooling raining morning. I saw many backpackers waiting there. I discovered the Taiwan backpacker of the same Antarctica trip in the bus station. I got on the bus at 5:20 a.m.

I slept very well once I was in the bus as I only slept for 4 hours only yesterday. The bus was a cama-class bus. I waked up and arrived at Rio Grande at 8:00 a.m. Breakfast was served afterward and I arrived at San Sebastian ( Argentina border ) at 11:00 a.m. and Chilean entrance at 12:00 a.m.

The road from San Sebastian to Bahia Azul was gravel one so that the speed of bus was very slow and I arrived at Strait of Magellan at 2:30 p.m. The boat had left just a minute. I waited for an hour. It was cloudy in the last time and the weather was fine this time. I lucky saw two little dolphins swimming when crossing the strait. The bus arrived at Punta Arena at 6:40 p.m. 40 minutes behind the schedule.

I went to "Buses Pachero" office to change ticket (7:30 p.m. bus) to Puerto Natales. The ride was 249km in 3 hours. I saw some Flamingoes on the way and finally arrived at 11:00 p.m. 18 hours from Ushuaia! It was from dawn to mid-night.

It took 15 minutes walk to YHA including drawing money ($150,000) from Banco de Chile. One HK$ 1 was equal $80 Chilean dollars. The YHA building was very modern and was the best one I had stayed. One bed cost $12,000 a night in the 8-person room. I felt it was very deluxe as I was the only guest that night. The common room was spacious and had 6 computers. I was allocated two half-hour coupons for using computer when checking in.

Day 31 Date : 29 Nov 2008 Puerto Natales

The dining room had a very good view overlooking lake with the shadow of snow-capped mountains. Although the mountains were not so great as in the Antarctica, they were graceful. The check-in counter helped me to book the Torres Del Paine's accommodation and transportation. Its service was efficient and she email immediately and confirmed everything by 7:00p.m. Moreover, the lady was very beautiful.

I took my dirty clothes to laundry($2,000) after breakfast and walked to sea shore & downtown. I was surprised that the town was very quiet as it was already 10:30 a.m. It seemed that people were still sleeping. It was very different from the description from the Lonely Planet. "If you did not want to sleep on sleep, you must make reservation in peak season." Lunch ($2,000) was soap, chicken rice, desert and tea. I got back clothes at 2:00 p.m.

I took a short slept in the afternoon. A U.S. backpacker came in the room. I went to supermarket to buy food for next 5 days at 5:00 p.m. The backpack was quite heavy and I needed to carry myself.

One more Japanese came in the room at night. I saw other room at 9:00 p.m. and observed there were only three people tonight in the hostel. It was still raining in the afternoon. I hoped the weather was fine tomorrow as it was the new horizon!

Day 32 Date : 30 Nov 2008 Refugio Grey

The bus departed to Torres Del Paine at 8:00a.m. and arrived at the entrance ( Laguna Amargo ) at 10:00 a.m. The distance was 145km. The entrance fee was $15,000. The bus continued to Refugio Pudeto. I took the ferry (12:00) to Paine Grande.

Finally, I started at 1:00 p.m. I though my weight of backpack was 18kg and had to walk slowly. I arrived at Laguna Los Potas after 2 hours' walk. I thought it was one half. However, I discovered that it was only one quarter. I arrived at Lago Grey at 4:00 p.m. and saw some flowing ice on the lake. I was surprised that these ice appeared in such a low altitude ( ~1000m).

The path was not difficult to walk but the heavy load made me tired. I was overtaken by all tourists and got used to it. I would said "Hola( Hello )" when I met other people and said "Gracias (Thank you)" when I requested other to give way.

I arrived at the Refugio Grey at 7:00 p.m. The trail was only 11km and I spent 6 hours in the walk. The hut was very old and my bed was in a 6-bed room. I was informed that there was no kitchen in the hut. How come! I carried 5 days' food! It was unbelievable. I wanted to order the dinner and they said that it was full and finished! What kind of hut? What kind of manner? I was innocent but walked slow. I came there from the other side of the world. I did not come there for being punished!

I did not know how to do at that moment and went to have a shower to clam down. One coke cost expansive $HK 25. I went to campsite to find any solution and wanted to borrow cook set from them. Finally, I went back to the hut and booked the breakfast and packed lunch tomorrow ( $5000 + $7000). One 600ml water cost $1500 and it was more expansive than Maldives.

I discussed with the hut manager about using their kitchen. They agreed that I could use it after 9:00 p.m. I cooked my dinner ( one noodle + 3 ham + 3 beacon + vegetable) at 9:10 p.m. The rest of the food was given to the hut manager as present. I slept at 11:00 p.m.

Day 33 Date : 1 Dec 2008 Mountain Lodge

I waked up at 6:45 a.m. and walked to the lake shore. It was peaceful as no one waked up so early. Some floating ice was in the lake and the water temperature was about 0oC. The air temperature was 10oC. I was very comfortable even I only wore one jacket. The breakfast was milk porridge + bread + 3 cheese + tea & orange juice. It was very good and I drank 6 cups of orange juice.

I went to the Big Ice Hike and Kayaking for joining Ice Climb. The cost was super pricy $100,000. We needed to take the Zodiac(15 min) at 9:00 a.m. to the rim of glacier. 10 minutes walk was needed to the glacier. I wore crampon and harness before walking on ice. I was taught some basic walking skill which was different from trekking. I needed to rope up for climbing or descending steep slope. I thought it was tedious. No way! Safety was only one!