西藏之旅
八年前已跟團到西藏旅行，但當時只停留了四天，意猶未盡。近幾年看了很多關於西藏的書，決定再戰西藏，今次是走新藏線，自由行。
二月時候到過尼泊爾那邊的基地營，今次要到西藏這邊的基地營，從不可同角度欣賞珠穆朗瑪峰(8844m)。
看一看中國最美的峽谷：雅魯藏布大峽谷
覲見中國最美的山：南迦巴瓦峰(7728m)
探一探三大神湖：納木錯、羊卓雍錯、瑪旁雍錯
走訪中國最美的冰川：絨布冰川及米堆冰川
探望一下中國最美的村庄：來古村
轉一轉神山：岡仁波齊峰(6338m)
出發前在旅遊人生網站找人拼車一起玩，只找到到一人同行前十天行程。
在香港買了七月八日广州-拉薩的硬卧(下鋪)車票($1180)。下午一時開車，約55小時後到達拉薩。
行程 ：
D1-D3广州-拉薩
D4 拉薩
D5 拉薩
D6 拉薩-> 林芝
D7 林芝 -> 通麥 -> 岡鄉自然保護區
D8 岡鄉 -> 波密 -> 米堆冰川-> 然烏
D9 來古冰川 -> 波密
D10 波密 -> 林芝 -> 拉薩
D11 拉薩>納木錯納木錯湖畔住宿一天
D12 納木錯>拉薩
D13 拉薩
D14 拉萨羊湖江孜日喀则
D15 日喀则定日
D16 定日珠峰-登山大本营
D17 珠峰绒布冰川老定日
D18 珠峰定日萨嘎
D19 萨嘎--仲巴--帕羊
D20 帕羊 圣湖玛旁雍措 神山
D21-22 神山冈仁波齐徒步转神山
D23 神山冈仁波齐 扎达
D24 扎达
D25 扎达--古格遗址--狮泉河
D26 泉河 班公错 多玛
D27 多玛 界山大阪 红柳滩
D28 红柳滩 麻扎 叶城
D29 叶城 英吉沙 喀什
D30-31 喀什 烏魯木齊
2009年4月28日 星期二
South America Trip D91_97
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Santiago#
Date 91 28 Jan 2009 Mendoza
9:00 a.m. breakfast
9:30~10:30a.m. Say hello to everybody and photo taking
10:50 a.m. ~ 12:30 descend to the plain
12:30~17:30 Plaza de Confluencia
8:40 p.m. park entrance 11 hr walk
12:50p.m. back to Hotel Huentala in Mendoza
Date 92 29 Jan 2009 Mendoza
I slept at 3:30 a.m. and waked up at 9:30a.m. to have breakfast. I went to bus station to buy ticket to Santiago ($90) at 2:00p.m. after packing the luggage. Phone call ($1.5) was made for the reservation of hostel in Santiago. Pizza ($24) was taken as lunch. We booked a wine tour ($45). Laundry was $32 for 2 loads and Argentina cup was $24. We returned equipment at 7:00p.m. and the celebration dinner was at 9:00p.m.
Date 93 30 Jan 2009 Mendoza
It did not have anything to do in the morning. The tour bus picked us at 2:00p.m. in the hotel. The first wine tasting was "Lagarde". The explanation was in Spanish. The facility was rather old. Au brought a 1942-wine (US$ 300). The second place was also a winery. But it was an organic plant. The factory was small and the price was cheaper ($15~$35).
The third stop was the Olive Oil Farm and the explanation was simple and short. The final place was Dolce Factory. The explanation was amusing although I did not understand. 45$ was value for visiting 4 factories with 4 different talks.
Date 94 31 Jan 2009 Mendoza ~ Santiago
The bus set off at 9:50a.m. to Santiago. The bus passed through the Aconcagua Park again and I could see the top on the right hand side. We arrived at the border at 1:00p.m. and waited for clearing for about 2 hours. Finally, we arrived at the Santiago bus station at 6:00p.m. I took MTR to hostel and went outside walk after shower.
Most shops were closed as it was Saturday. It was hard to find a Chinese restaurant to have dinner ( 雲吞+雞肉+牛肉+炒飯) costing $10,000. Our hostel name was "Residential Condres" which was an old fashion mansion. The ceiling had more than 4 metres.
Date 95,96&97 1 Feb 2009 Santiago ~ Hong Kong
We had a free morning time as the flight was 7:00p.m. We stored the luggage in the hostel and went outside walk. I wanted to take bus but it did not accept cash. So we took MTR to the end of line L4. The cost was about $HK 4.8 and the ride took about an hour.
Lunch (fish + salad ) was taken in a local restaurant. We strolled around a shopping mall and missed Au after toilet. I waited for an hour and was back to hostel alone. I left a message after waiting another hour in the hostel. But I saw Au when I left hostel. I did not know whether Au missing was purposely or not. Anyway, we took taxi ($13,000)to the airport.
The flight was Santiago to Toronto (11hr) and from Toronto to Hong Kong(15 hr). The dream travel ended on 3 Feb 2009 ( 97 days all together).
Date 91 28 Jan 2009 Mendoza
9:00 a.m. breakfast
9:30~10:30a.m. Say hello to everybody and photo taking
10:50 a.m. ~ 12:30 descend to the plain
12:30~17:30 Plaza de Confluencia
8:40 p.m. park entrance 11 hr walk
12:50p.m. back to Hotel Huentala in Mendoza
Date 92 29 Jan 2009 Mendoza
I slept at 3:30 a.m. and waked up at 9:30a.m. to have breakfast. I went to bus station to buy ticket to Santiago ($90) at 2:00p.m. after packing the luggage. Phone call ($1.5) was made for the reservation of hostel in Santiago. Pizza ($24) was taken as lunch. We booked a wine tour ($45). Laundry was $32 for 2 loads and Argentina cup was $24. We returned equipment at 7:00p.m. and the celebration dinner was at 9:00p.m.
Date 93 30 Jan 2009 Mendoza
It did not have anything to do in the morning. The tour bus picked us at 2:00p.m. in the hotel. The first wine tasting was "Lagarde". The explanation was in Spanish. The facility was rather old. Au brought a 1942-wine (US$ 300). The second place was also a winery. But it was an organic plant. The factory was small and the price was cheaper ($15~$35).
The third stop was the Olive Oil Farm and the explanation was simple and short. The final place was Dolce Factory. The explanation was amusing although I did not understand. 45$ was value for visiting 4 factories with 4 different talks.
Date 94 31 Jan 2009 Mendoza ~ Santiago
The bus set off at 9:50a.m. to Santiago. The bus passed through the Aconcagua Park again and I could see the top on the right hand side. We arrived at the border at 1:00p.m. and waited for clearing for about 2 hours. Finally, we arrived at the Santiago bus station at 6:00p.m. I took MTR to hostel and went outside walk after shower.
Most shops were closed as it was Saturday. It was hard to find a Chinese restaurant to have dinner ( 雲吞+雞肉+牛肉+炒飯) costing $10,000. Our hostel name was "Residential Condres" which was an old fashion mansion. The ceiling had more than 4 metres.
Date 95,96&97 1 Feb 2009 Santiago ~ Hong Kong
We had a free morning time as the flight was 7:00p.m. We stored the luggage in the hostel and went outside walk. I wanted to take bus but it did not accept cash. So we took MTR to the end of line L4. The cost was about $HK 4.8 and the ride took about an hour.
Lunch (fish + salad ) was taken in a local restaurant. We strolled around a shopping mall and missed Au after toilet. I waited for an hour and was back to hostel alone. I left a message after waiting another hour in the hostel. But I saw Au when I left hostel. I did not know whether Au missing was purposely or not. Anyway, we took taxi ($13,000)to the airport.
The flight was Santiago to Toronto (11hr) and from Toronto to Hong Kong(15 hr). The dream travel ended on 3 Feb 2009 ( 97 days all together).
South America Trip D78-D90
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Aconcagua#
Date 78 15 Jan 2009 Mendoza
I waked up at 7:00a.m. and checked email. I left hostel at 8:45a.m. and arrived at the Hotel Huentala at 9:20a.m. Au said the guide would check our equipment at 10:00a.m. But she came at 11:00a.m.
We paid the trekking permit ($1500). I was back to hostel for a rest until 4:00p.m. when the guide checked our equipment. Most of my equipment was not up to standard. I had to rent :
1. Trouser : $US 20
2. Mitten : $US 25
3. Ice-axe : US$ 25
4. Double boot : US$ 70
5. Sleeping bag : US$ 95
6. Duffle bag : $US 25
7. Grove : $ 13 peso
Total $280 x 90% = $250US
Although the renting price was expansive, their service was very good. I tried several boots to find the suitable one. As the length of ice-axe was not suitable for me, they opened a new one for me.
I took dinner ( included in the package ) at the tallest building in Mendoza. The environment was good but the taste was not so good for $50.
We packed the equipment at night. I needed to distribute luggage to be stored in Mendoza, which would be carried by mule and which would be carried myself. I packed until 12:40a.m. to sleep. Beside me & Au, this expedition also included Carmen who was a Canadian lady. Carmen could speak English, France, Spanish & German and she was the translator between us & the guide.
Date 79 16 Jan 2009 Penitentes (2600m)
The breakfast was buffet style and very rich in the hotel. We went to central market to buy some snack and locker. The guide waited us at 11:00a.m. We set off after storing unnecessary luggage in the hotel. The pick-up mini-van was 19-seated bus carrying 4 of us only. I felt rather deluxe.
I arrived at Penetentes ( 2600m ) at 2:00p.m and stayed in the hotel Hostal Ayelen. This hotel was a decent one and the room was spacious. The dining room was very nice. Lunch was very delicious steak. I took a short afternoon sleep. We went outside at 5:00p.m. and crossed the Mendoza river to opposite side. However, there was a lot of thorn in the plant. We came back after 30 minutes. Dinner was taken at 8:30p.m. There were only a few clients tonight. It was very peaceful to sit in the common room.
Date 80 17 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)
Buffet break was very good and I ate a lot of fruit. A small van pick up at 10:00 a.m. We visited Punte del Inca firstly. It had been a geyser resort a long time ago and there was a train station at that time. I could see the train rail on the way. There were a lot of hawkers selling various stones.
We arrived at Horcones (2880m) which was the entrance of the Aconcagua National part at 11:00a.m. After registration, each was allocated a plastic bag for collecting rubbish.
We set off at 11:30a.m. It was not difficult in the gentle slop. We walked along the river bank in the valley and we were surrounded by high mountains. Each mountain had its shape and colour. We took lunch at 12:50a.m. after crossing river Horcones.
We continued at 1:30p.m. and it was cloudy and windy. We could see the top of Aconacgua in fine weather. The temperature was comfortable warm enough for walk and not too hot for sweating. Walk! Rest ! Walk! I arrived at Plaza de Confluence at 3:50p.m.
The camp site was very large and there was a lot of tents We stayed in the largeest dome which had 24 beds. There was welcoming afternoon tea once when we arrived at the campsite. The tea was richer than the lunch. I also met our mountaineering guide Litto. It was heavy rain in the evening and I thought snowing in the mountain. I stayed in the tent for writing diary.
Dinner was soap + chicken + desert and it was delicious. The temperature was freezing cool outside while it was warm in the sleeping bag (US$ 95). The sky was scattered a lot of stars in mid-night.
Date 81 18 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)
I was surprised that some body came in the tent even in mid-night. I waked up at 7:00a.m. to wash. The tap water was frozen once it was dropped on the ground. I thought the water temperature was far below 0oC. There were many mules carrying the luggage of Chilean group (46 persons) to Plaza de Mule.
When I was packing the daypack, some water was dripping from the top of the tent. It was not raining outside and the water was come from the melting ice on the top. We started at 10:00a.m. to the Plaza de Francia. It was sunshine and gentle breeze. This weather was comfortable.
The path was easy to walk and I took picture of strange flowers. I could see the top of the Aconcagua after 2 hours. There were awesome mountains along the way. I arrived at the look out (4000m) at 1:50p.m. and was the last one as usual. The north face of Aconcagua was right in front of us. The glacier of the Aconcagua was shined by cloudiness sunlight. We had my lunch there.
It took one more hour to reach Plaza de Francia. Litto did not suggest us to go. He led us to see some ice cave and glacier. We returned from 3:00p.m. and took a lot of photo of flowers. We were back to the camp at 5:20p.m.
We met two innocent Canadian girls. They carried a 25 litre backpack without sleeping bag. They did not have guide and any background information of Aconcagua. It seemed that they were cheated by the agent. I had a shower in the toilet. Although it was primitive, it was better than nothing.
Date 82 19 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
I packed up the pack at 6:30a.m. and put the large backpack to mule. Breakfast was taken at 7:30 a.m. and started at 7:50a.m. I was full of energy in the morning and had similar pace with others. The first part was downhill to a river and uphill after crossing the river.
Litto said that we walked toward the front mountain and turned right to uphill. We walked in a wide open valley and seemed a Gobi Desert. There was some ice on the top of the front mountain. Most surrounding mountains were red color. We came across several streams which were formed by melting glacier. But it was muddy and carried a lot of sediments.
The scenery was the same for the next two hour and we were separated into two groups. I was the solo group far behind them. The distance from the front seemed not to have any change. We turned right and passed by a moraine after 3 hours. I walked along dried river bed and had to cross over streams. The moraine was one by one. The temperature was rather hot even in such a high altitude (3500m). Finally, I arrived at a boulder to have lunch after 4 hours.
The gentle path was finished and the next path was steep climb(1000m). I started at 1:00p.m. The distance among two groups increased as time was going on. In fact, it was not too tough going up but it was demanding to go with their speed. They had finished their rest once I arrived at the resting place. It seemed that I did not take any rest. I decided to walk at my comfortable speed when they disappeared from my sight. I arrived at the Plaza de Mule at 5:00p.m. 9 hour after start with sun burn. I drank up 2.5 litres.
Plaza de Mule was the base camp. There were many companies setting camp there. Almost all space was filled up by tents. Some were large enough for 8 people. Some were dining tents while some were kitchens. I passed through several camps to reach the Aconcagua Trek Camp. We were allocated a 8-people tent. I took dinner at 7:30p.m. and it was hailstorm at that time.
Date 83 20 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
It was a rest day today. I slept until 9:00a.m. The river rear our tent was frozen. It was freezing cool to brush and wash using ice water. We walked around to visit other tents. Some was for shower (US$ 10). Some provided satellite phone (US$ 2 / min) & internet (US$ 2 / 15 min.). Plaza de Mule seemed to be a village. I went to consult the doctor but he advised us to come again with the permit. We back to tent at 11:00p.m.
Lunch was taken at 1:30 p.m. We went to the only hotel there which was about 30 minutes walk. We passed through some interest ice-formation which was called Penitentes. It was carved by gusty wind.
The hotel was very comfortable. Dormitory cost $US 82 full board a night. Carmen took a shower (US$ 10) there. Internet only charged $US 5 per 15minutes. We returned at 5:00p.m. to consult doctor. My ocean reading was only 74 which was lower than the requirement (80). Doctor suggested me to drink 5 litre of water each day!!
I took a rest before dinner. I drank 4 cups of juice, 6 cups of tea & 2 soaps. I thought it had 3 litres. So I required to go to toilet many times. The toilet was in the other far end of the base camp. We needed to get the key from our tent and walked about 3 minutes on rocky road. It was a box containing the dirty matters and would be cleared & carried away by helicopter. In fact, helicopter did the clearing on each morning.
The scenery was fascinating today. There was a snowy mountain hanging around. The sky was blue scattered with white cloud. Four seasons happened in a day. The golden yellow sunset light shining on the white snowy surface was impressive.
Date 84 21 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m) ~ Canadian Camp (5000m)
It was a load carrying day and would be come back to base camp at night. It was a matter of acclimatization program (walk high and stay low).We set off at 10:30 a.m. to Canadian Camp and passed through Penitentes near our tent. We climbed up along steep slope in the beginning and the weather was fine. I could see the top of Aconcagua and walked slowly and slowly. I was higher than the background snowy mountain gradually. We took a rest near some boulders.
We started again after the rest. I saw many groups of people descending from the slope. Some were going up. The view was grandeur. I continued to hike up in a zigzag way. Au & Carmen sight were disappearing from me gradually. Anyway, I walked according to my own speed. The altitude was 4800m. I could not catch up with them. I needed to take diamox on > 3000m previously. I had not taken any this time even carrying such a heavy in high altitude. I took rest for every 10 minutes, sometimes for 20 steps or even 10 steps! When I climbed over a very steep slope and really needed to sit down to have a longer rest and ate food to recover.
I started solo and lonely again at 2:00p.m. I saw someone from the right hill greeting with me. He was my guide Litto. He had already arrived at Canadian Camp(4850m) half- hour before and told me that 10 more minutes to go there. I unloaded commune food once I arrived at the Canadian Camp. There was some fresh snow on the ground and was very windy. A lot of tents ( mostly was Mountain Hardwear ) were erected there.
Litto said we continued to walk higher to a boulder(5000m)on the opposite slope. I did not have any strength. Anyway, I carried on 5 minutes after they started. I saw they reached the boulder at 3:00p.m. and I was still struggling on the snowy slope. The weather was changed from sunny, cloudy and snowing. When I reached the boulder, they continued to go higher. I could only see their shadow in the heavy snow. I decided to turn back in such a weather condition and thought that 5000m was enough for acclimatization.
Although I was descending, I had to pay extra attention on each step. The double boot was not easy to maneuver. It made my foot hurt in the surface as well as in the ankle. I was back to Canadian Camp within half hour and saw someone took fresh ice from the penitentes. The visibility was extremely low that I could only see only few steps in the front. I walked down slowly & slowly. I could still see people walking with their full load in such a bad weather.
I was back to the boulder at 3:50p.m. and continued going down without stop. I could not see the basecamp as it was misty and snowing. There was many branch of path. I just went down with common sense and could hardly see base camp when strong wind blew out the mist.
I choose a steep path straight down in another junction. I felt something wrong after 10 minutes and had some hesitation as I could not see base camp. Luckily, a guide passed by me and went down. I just followed him and got back to correct road to base camp at 4:50p.m.
I felt very cool as I wore fleece and gortex jacket only. I changed into down jacket and drank some hot water. Au & Carmen come back after a while and we took afternoon tea together. I had some dizziness without appetite and just drinking & drinking.
I took a rest and dinner was at 6:30p.m. Dinner was delicious steak and I drank a lot of water. So I had to go toilet many times until tomorrow.
Date 85 22 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
I went to body check after breakfast and the reading was only 76. Doctor said 80 was the passing number. I would go no matter irrespective to the reading. I was back to tent for packing the luggage which was very heavy. I thought that it was about 15kg.
I wanted to go to hotel after lunch but it was heavy snowing. I could do nothing but waited in the tent. Wait! Sleep! Seat! Carmen said she would go to the hotel and meet her friend and said that she enjoyed this weather as it was similar to Toronto.
A German came alone at 5:30p.m. He carried about 43kg equipment and planned to climb the summit alone without guide. He stayed in the dormitory $US 10.
I wanted to take shower in the base camp at 6:00p.m. but it was no hot water as no sunshine in the afternoon. I was frustrated as I had not taken shower for 5 days.
The snow stopped at 6:30p.m. after 5 hours snowing. The sky changed into blue again and the scenery was very beautiful. It was too late to go to hotel for shower. I had stayed in the base camp for 4 days. Each day appeared distinctive four seasons. Food and scenery were very good. I had not seen any oriental people.
I made a satellite phone ($US2 /min) to home. Dinner was soap + steak + desert. There had everything in the base camp. Everyone had the same objective: Summit (6962m). The body condition had strengthened daily. I hoped to have breakthrough myself.
Date 86 23 Jan 2009 Canadian Camp (4900m)
We checked the reading in the morning. I was 81, Au was 84 and Carmen was 85. I took a shower before setting off. Unnecessary items were stored in the Plaza de Mule. I thought my backpack was about 16kg. We set off at 11:50a.m. and the weather was good. The distance among us was not great as each was carrying heavy load.
We walked slowly as heavy load was demanding. We took a 15 min. break at 1:00p.m. I set off again and felt dazzle. The breathing was short and quick. The AMS was coming.
We took another break at 2:30p.m. and Carmen said she would hire a porter tomorrow and suggested we shared the price. I thought it would be a good idea. I used every once of energy and rested many times to climb the last slope to reach the Canadian Camp.
Au had already settled everything and rested in the tent. I had headache and without appetite. I just drank some tea and took a rest. Dinner was canned soap and spaghetti. Litto was most hard working. He got ice for melting water once he arrived at the camp. He also prepared tea, dinner and served us even in heavy snowing. The snowing was very heavy and I was full of snow even in a short toilet time.
Date 87 24 Jan 2009 Nido de Condores (5500m)
I felt better after a night. The breakfast was very simple. Three porters arrived at 10:00a.m. Two were taking care of tents and one was for our personal equipment.
We set off at 10:50a.m. after taking group photo. It was still heavy even unloading sleeping bag, sleeping sheet and crampon. I walked in the slope covered with fresh snow. The weather was fine and I required to add sun cream every hour as snow reflection was strong.
I took a short break at 12:00a.m. and walked zigzag uphill. My pace was slowly and left behind others. I caught up them at 2:00p.m. and they finished their break and set off again. I decided to take a break and walked myself.
The camp was right in front of me. But the distance seemed that it did not chang any after walking for a long time. The snow was thicker when I walked higher. The snow changed from soft to hard. It meant that the temperature was much lower. I thought the temperature was -5~-10oC.
I saw Litto at 3:30p.m. and he pointed the location of our tents. It was very tough to arrive at my tent after 4 hr 40 min. walk. I unloaded my pack, drank some water, ate some food and took rest. They went to take photo but I really did not have energy to go. I waked up to toilet and slept again. The headache did not improve.
Nido de Condores had many tents and seemed to be a village. The ground was covered by a layer of soft snow. The temperature was low even with sunshine as it was windy. However, the scenery was stunning especially the sunset. We opened the window of our tent to appreciate the mountain. I felt the real mountaineering in there.
Date 88 25 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)
It was only 300m climb today and we set off at 11:50a.m. As there was heavy snow and icy surface, we wore crampon to walk. I zigzag walked even on the gentle slope in order to save energy. Their shadow was disappeared quickly in my sight. The camp II seemed did not change.
I achieved the height 5650m at 13:30 and had 200m more climb. It was not too bad. But the pacing was extremely slow in later part. I was passed over by other groups and had to stop for every 10 minutes, 5 minutes, 30 steps, 20 steps and 10steps... I arrived at German shelter at 15:50. Other guide told me that German Camp was 20 minutes away. But I was dazzle and very weak.
I set off at 4:00p.m. and saw someone was walking down without backpack. I did not know whose was Litto or not. I met him 10 minutes later. He offered help for taking my backpack. I walked easier without backpack but it was still demanding. I crawled step by step to camp III at 4:30p.m. and I was hardly to stand. It took me 4.5 hours to climb 300m height. Although slower than others (3 hours), I had achieved 5870m which was the new height for me with loading.
I had no appetite in dinner. I had no confidence in summit tomorrow and had to take rest. I hoped they could achieve summit!
Date 89 26 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)
It was freezing cool night. I needed to wear down jacket, glove and hat for warming up the body for a moment before going out to toilet. I also wore the boot to go. It was hard to move and just a few steps away from the tent. I needed to drink some water every times. The water vapour of our breathing was condensed as snow inside the tent so I was full of snow when I waked up every time.
The gusty wind liked typhoon signal no.8 and never stop at night. Although I did not eat anything and I did no feel hungry and had a little bit headache.
They set off at 7:00a.m. and I did not have strength to crawl outside to say hello. I hoped that they would success. I left alone in the tent and did nothing but sleeping.
Carmen was turned back from 6200m at 12:00a.m. She took rest in tent. Au had achieved the summit after 7 hours walk and returned 3 hr later. He was back to tent at 5:00p.m.
I stayed inside the tent whole day. I supposed I could have summit trial tomorrow. But Litto said that he provided one chance only. I was really disappointed as I had used much money and time for the preparation. Anyway, it was the destiny of life.
Date 90 27 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
We set off to descend at 10:30a.m. and would be back to base camp. The time required to climb up were as follows:
Base Camp to Camp I 3.5 hr
Camp I to Camp II 5 hr
Camp II to Camp III 4.5 hr
The weather was fine in the morning and I just walked downhill. I could not see them right after setting off. I met Litto after 1.5 hr. He told me that the game was over and he had called helicopter to take me down. I was really angry. Although I felt tired, I could walk myself with food and water. I continued ignoring his advice. I arrived at Camp II after 2 more hours. It was not so demanding and just walk , rest & drink.
I went to base camp from Camp II without stopping at Camp I. The direct drop 500m was too demanding and tiring as the body was very weak. Finally, I was back to base camp at 3:30p.m. 5 hours after start.
I met the German guy in the late afternoon. He had achieved the summit from Camp II (2:30a.m. start) to summit and back to base camp at 5:30p.m. It was incredible and amazing!
Date 78 15 Jan 2009 Mendoza
I waked up at 7:00a.m. and checked email. I left hostel at 8:45a.m. and arrived at the Hotel Huentala at 9:20a.m. Au said the guide would check our equipment at 10:00a.m. But she came at 11:00a.m.
We paid the trekking permit ($1500). I was back to hostel for a rest until 4:00p.m. when the guide checked our equipment. Most of my equipment was not up to standard. I had to rent :
1. Trouser : $US 20
2. Mitten : $US 25
3. Ice-axe : US$ 25
4. Double boot : US$ 70
5. Sleeping bag : US$ 95
6. Duffle bag : $US 25
7. Grove : $ 13 peso
Total $280 x 90% = $250US
Although the renting price was expansive, their service was very good. I tried several boots to find the suitable one. As the length of ice-axe was not suitable for me, they opened a new one for me.
I took dinner ( included in the package ) at the tallest building in Mendoza. The environment was good but the taste was not so good for $50.
We packed the equipment at night. I needed to distribute luggage to be stored in Mendoza, which would be carried by mule and which would be carried myself. I packed until 12:40a.m. to sleep. Beside me & Au, this expedition also included Carmen who was a Canadian lady. Carmen could speak English, France, Spanish & German and she was the translator between us & the guide.
Date 79 16 Jan 2009 Penitentes (2600m)
The breakfast was buffet style and very rich in the hotel. We went to central market to buy some snack and locker. The guide waited us at 11:00a.m. We set off after storing unnecessary luggage in the hotel. The pick-up mini-van was 19-seated bus carrying 4 of us only. I felt rather deluxe.
I arrived at Penetentes ( 2600m ) at 2:00p.m and stayed in the hotel Hostal Ayelen. This hotel was a decent one and the room was spacious. The dining room was very nice. Lunch was very delicious steak. I took a short afternoon sleep. We went outside at 5:00p.m. and crossed the Mendoza river to opposite side. However, there was a lot of thorn in the plant. We came back after 30 minutes. Dinner was taken at 8:30p.m. There were only a few clients tonight. It was very peaceful to sit in the common room.
Date 80 17 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)
Buffet break was very good and I ate a lot of fruit. A small van pick up at 10:00 a.m. We visited Punte del Inca firstly. It had been a geyser resort a long time ago and there was a train station at that time. I could see the train rail on the way. There were a lot of hawkers selling various stones.
We arrived at Horcones (2880m) which was the entrance of the Aconcagua National part at 11:00a.m. After registration, each was allocated a plastic bag for collecting rubbish.
We set off at 11:30a.m. It was not difficult in the gentle slop. We walked along the river bank in the valley and we were surrounded by high mountains. Each mountain had its shape and colour. We took lunch at 12:50a.m. after crossing river Horcones.
We continued at 1:30p.m. and it was cloudy and windy. We could see the top of Aconacgua in fine weather. The temperature was comfortable warm enough for walk and not too hot for sweating. Walk! Rest ! Walk! I arrived at Plaza de Confluence at 3:50p.m.
The camp site was very large and there was a lot of tents We stayed in the largeest dome which had 24 beds. There was welcoming afternoon tea once when we arrived at the campsite. The tea was richer than the lunch. I also met our mountaineering guide Litto. It was heavy rain in the evening and I thought snowing in the mountain. I stayed in the tent for writing diary.
Dinner was soap + chicken + desert and it was delicious. The temperature was freezing cool outside while it was warm in the sleeping bag (US$ 95). The sky was scattered a lot of stars in mid-night.
Date 81 18 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)
I was surprised that some body came in the tent even in mid-night. I waked up at 7:00a.m. to wash. The tap water was frozen once it was dropped on the ground. I thought the water temperature was far below 0oC. There were many mules carrying the luggage of Chilean group (46 persons) to Plaza de Mule.
When I was packing the daypack, some water was dripping from the top of the tent. It was not raining outside and the water was come from the melting ice on the top. We started at 10:00a.m. to the Plaza de Francia. It was sunshine and gentle breeze. This weather was comfortable.
The path was easy to walk and I took picture of strange flowers. I could see the top of the Aconcagua after 2 hours. There were awesome mountains along the way. I arrived at the look out (4000m) at 1:50p.m. and was the last one as usual. The north face of Aconcagua was right in front of us. The glacier of the Aconcagua was shined by cloudiness sunlight. We had my lunch there.
It took one more hour to reach Plaza de Francia. Litto did not suggest us to go. He led us to see some ice cave and glacier. We returned from 3:00p.m. and took a lot of photo of flowers. We were back to the camp at 5:20p.m.
We met two innocent Canadian girls. They carried a 25 litre backpack without sleeping bag. They did not have guide and any background information of Aconcagua. It seemed that they were cheated by the agent. I had a shower in the toilet. Although it was primitive, it was better than nothing.
Date 82 19 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
I packed up the pack at 6:30a.m. and put the large backpack to mule. Breakfast was taken at 7:30 a.m. and started at 7:50a.m. I was full of energy in the morning and had similar pace with others. The first part was downhill to a river and uphill after crossing the river.
Litto said that we walked toward the front mountain and turned right to uphill. We walked in a wide open valley and seemed a Gobi Desert. There was some ice on the top of the front mountain. Most surrounding mountains were red color. We came across several streams which were formed by melting glacier. But it was muddy and carried a lot of sediments.
The scenery was the same for the next two hour and we were separated into two groups. I was the solo group far behind them. The distance from the front seemed not to have any change. We turned right and passed by a moraine after 3 hours. I walked along dried river bed and had to cross over streams. The moraine was one by one. The temperature was rather hot even in such a high altitude (3500m). Finally, I arrived at a boulder to have lunch after 4 hours.
The gentle path was finished and the next path was steep climb(1000m). I started at 1:00p.m. The distance among two groups increased as time was going on. In fact, it was not too tough going up but it was demanding to go with their speed. They had finished their rest once I arrived at the resting place. It seemed that I did not take any rest. I decided to walk at my comfortable speed when they disappeared from my sight. I arrived at the Plaza de Mule at 5:00p.m. 9 hour after start with sun burn. I drank up 2.5 litres.
Plaza de Mule was the base camp. There were many companies setting camp there. Almost all space was filled up by tents. Some were large enough for 8 people. Some were dining tents while some were kitchens. I passed through several camps to reach the Aconcagua Trek Camp. We were allocated a 8-people tent. I took dinner at 7:30p.m. and it was hailstorm at that time.
Date 83 20 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
It was a rest day today. I slept until 9:00a.m. The river rear our tent was frozen. It was freezing cool to brush and wash using ice water. We walked around to visit other tents. Some was for shower (US$ 10). Some provided satellite phone (US$ 2 / min) & internet (US$ 2 / 15 min.). Plaza de Mule seemed to be a village. I went to consult the doctor but he advised us to come again with the permit. We back to tent at 11:00p.m.
Lunch was taken at 1:30 p.m. We went to the only hotel there which was about 30 minutes walk. We passed through some interest ice-formation which was called Penitentes. It was carved by gusty wind.
The hotel was very comfortable. Dormitory cost $US 82 full board a night. Carmen took a shower (US$ 10) there. Internet only charged $US 5 per 15minutes. We returned at 5:00p.m. to consult doctor. My ocean reading was only 74 which was lower than the requirement (80). Doctor suggested me to drink 5 litre of water each day!!
I took a rest before dinner. I drank 4 cups of juice, 6 cups of tea & 2 soaps. I thought it had 3 litres. So I required to go to toilet many times. The toilet was in the other far end of the base camp. We needed to get the key from our tent and walked about 3 minutes on rocky road. It was a box containing the dirty matters and would be cleared & carried away by helicopter. In fact, helicopter did the clearing on each morning.
The scenery was fascinating today. There was a snowy mountain hanging around. The sky was blue scattered with white cloud. Four seasons happened in a day. The golden yellow sunset light shining on the white snowy surface was impressive.
Date 84 21 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m) ~ Canadian Camp (5000m)
It was a load carrying day and would be come back to base camp at night. It was a matter of acclimatization program (walk high and stay low).We set off at 10:30 a.m. to Canadian Camp and passed through Penitentes near our tent. We climbed up along steep slope in the beginning and the weather was fine. I could see the top of Aconcagua and walked slowly and slowly. I was higher than the background snowy mountain gradually. We took a rest near some boulders.
We started again after the rest. I saw many groups of people descending from the slope. Some were going up. The view was grandeur. I continued to hike up in a zigzag way. Au & Carmen sight were disappearing from me gradually. Anyway, I walked according to my own speed. The altitude was 4800m. I could not catch up with them. I needed to take diamox on > 3000m previously. I had not taken any this time even carrying such a heavy in high altitude. I took rest for every 10 minutes, sometimes for 20 steps or even 10 steps! When I climbed over a very steep slope and really needed to sit down to have a longer rest and ate food to recover.
I started solo and lonely again at 2:00p.m. I saw someone from the right hill greeting with me. He was my guide Litto. He had already arrived at Canadian Camp(4850m) half- hour before and told me that 10 more minutes to go there. I unloaded commune food once I arrived at the Canadian Camp. There was some fresh snow on the ground and was very windy. A lot of tents ( mostly was Mountain Hardwear ) were erected there.
Litto said we continued to walk higher to a boulder(5000m)on the opposite slope. I did not have any strength. Anyway, I carried on 5 minutes after they started. I saw they reached the boulder at 3:00p.m. and I was still struggling on the snowy slope. The weather was changed from sunny, cloudy and snowing. When I reached the boulder, they continued to go higher. I could only see their shadow in the heavy snow. I decided to turn back in such a weather condition and thought that 5000m was enough for acclimatization.
Although I was descending, I had to pay extra attention on each step. The double boot was not easy to maneuver. It made my foot hurt in the surface as well as in the ankle. I was back to Canadian Camp within half hour and saw someone took fresh ice from the penitentes. The visibility was extremely low that I could only see only few steps in the front. I walked down slowly & slowly. I could still see people walking with their full load in such a bad weather.
I was back to the boulder at 3:50p.m. and continued going down without stop. I could not see the basecamp as it was misty and snowing. There was many branch of path. I just went down with common sense and could hardly see base camp when strong wind blew out the mist.
I choose a steep path straight down in another junction. I felt something wrong after 10 minutes and had some hesitation as I could not see base camp. Luckily, a guide passed by me and went down. I just followed him and got back to correct road to base camp at 4:50p.m.
I felt very cool as I wore fleece and gortex jacket only. I changed into down jacket and drank some hot water. Au & Carmen come back after a while and we took afternoon tea together. I had some dizziness without appetite and just drinking & drinking.
I took a rest and dinner was at 6:30p.m. Dinner was delicious steak and I drank a lot of water. So I had to go toilet many times until tomorrow.
Date 85 22 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
I went to body check after breakfast and the reading was only 76. Doctor said 80 was the passing number. I would go no matter irrespective to the reading. I was back to tent for packing the luggage which was very heavy. I thought that it was about 15kg.
I wanted to go to hotel after lunch but it was heavy snowing. I could do nothing but waited in the tent. Wait! Sleep! Seat! Carmen said she would go to the hotel and meet her friend and said that she enjoyed this weather as it was similar to Toronto.
A German came alone at 5:30p.m. He carried about 43kg equipment and planned to climb the summit alone without guide. He stayed in the dormitory $US 10.
I wanted to take shower in the base camp at 6:00p.m. but it was no hot water as no sunshine in the afternoon. I was frustrated as I had not taken shower for 5 days.
The snow stopped at 6:30p.m. after 5 hours snowing. The sky changed into blue again and the scenery was very beautiful. It was too late to go to hotel for shower. I had stayed in the base camp for 4 days. Each day appeared distinctive four seasons. Food and scenery were very good. I had not seen any oriental people.
I made a satellite phone ($US2 /min) to home. Dinner was soap + steak + desert. There had everything in the base camp. Everyone had the same objective: Summit (6962m). The body condition had strengthened daily. I hoped to have breakthrough myself.
Date 86 23 Jan 2009 Canadian Camp (4900m)
We checked the reading in the morning. I was 81, Au was 84 and Carmen was 85. I took a shower before setting off. Unnecessary items were stored in the Plaza de Mule. I thought my backpack was about 16kg. We set off at 11:50a.m. and the weather was good. The distance among us was not great as each was carrying heavy load.
We walked slowly as heavy load was demanding. We took a 15 min. break at 1:00p.m. I set off again and felt dazzle. The breathing was short and quick. The AMS was coming.
We took another break at 2:30p.m. and Carmen said she would hire a porter tomorrow and suggested we shared the price. I thought it would be a good idea. I used every once of energy and rested many times to climb the last slope to reach the Canadian Camp.
Au had already settled everything and rested in the tent. I had headache and without appetite. I just drank some tea and took a rest. Dinner was canned soap and spaghetti. Litto was most hard working. He got ice for melting water once he arrived at the camp. He also prepared tea, dinner and served us even in heavy snowing. The snowing was very heavy and I was full of snow even in a short toilet time.
Date 87 24 Jan 2009 Nido de Condores (5500m)
I felt better after a night. The breakfast was very simple. Three porters arrived at 10:00a.m. Two were taking care of tents and one was for our personal equipment.
We set off at 10:50a.m. after taking group photo. It was still heavy even unloading sleeping bag, sleeping sheet and crampon. I walked in the slope covered with fresh snow. The weather was fine and I required to add sun cream every hour as snow reflection was strong.
I took a short break at 12:00a.m. and walked zigzag uphill. My pace was slowly and left behind others. I caught up them at 2:00p.m. and they finished their break and set off again. I decided to take a break and walked myself.
The camp was right in front of me. But the distance seemed that it did not chang any after walking for a long time. The snow was thicker when I walked higher. The snow changed from soft to hard. It meant that the temperature was much lower. I thought the temperature was -5~-10oC.
I saw Litto at 3:30p.m. and he pointed the location of our tents. It was very tough to arrive at my tent after 4 hr 40 min. walk. I unloaded my pack, drank some water, ate some food and took rest. They went to take photo but I really did not have energy to go. I waked up to toilet and slept again. The headache did not improve.
Nido de Condores had many tents and seemed to be a village. The ground was covered by a layer of soft snow. The temperature was low even with sunshine as it was windy. However, the scenery was stunning especially the sunset. We opened the window of our tent to appreciate the mountain. I felt the real mountaineering in there.
Date 88 25 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)
It was only 300m climb today and we set off at 11:50a.m. As there was heavy snow and icy surface, we wore crampon to walk. I zigzag walked even on the gentle slope in order to save energy. Their shadow was disappeared quickly in my sight. The camp II seemed did not change.
I achieved the height 5650m at 13:30 and had 200m more climb. It was not too bad. But the pacing was extremely slow in later part. I was passed over by other groups and had to stop for every 10 minutes, 5 minutes, 30 steps, 20 steps and 10steps... I arrived at German shelter at 15:50. Other guide told me that German Camp was 20 minutes away. But I was dazzle and very weak.
I set off at 4:00p.m. and saw someone was walking down without backpack. I did not know whose was Litto or not. I met him 10 minutes later. He offered help for taking my backpack. I walked easier without backpack but it was still demanding. I crawled step by step to camp III at 4:30p.m. and I was hardly to stand. It took me 4.5 hours to climb 300m height. Although slower than others (3 hours), I had achieved 5870m which was the new height for me with loading.
I had no appetite in dinner. I had no confidence in summit tomorrow and had to take rest. I hoped they could achieve summit!
Date 89 26 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)
It was freezing cool night. I needed to wear down jacket, glove and hat for warming up the body for a moment before going out to toilet. I also wore the boot to go. It was hard to move and just a few steps away from the tent. I needed to drink some water every times. The water vapour of our breathing was condensed as snow inside the tent so I was full of snow when I waked up every time.
The gusty wind liked typhoon signal no.8 and never stop at night. Although I did not eat anything and I did no feel hungry and had a little bit headache.
They set off at 7:00a.m. and I did not have strength to crawl outside to say hello. I hoped that they would success. I left alone in the tent and did nothing but sleeping.
Carmen was turned back from 6200m at 12:00a.m. She took rest in tent. Au had achieved the summit after 7 hours walk and returned 3 hr later. He was back to tent at 5:00p.m.
I stayed inside the tent whole day. I supposed I could have summit trial tomorrow. But Litto said that he provided one chance only. I was really disappointed as I had used much money and time for the preparation. Anyway, it was the destiny of life.
Date 90 27 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)
We set off to descend at 10:30a.m. and would be back to base camp. The time required to climb up were as follows:
Base Camp to Camp I 3.5 hr
Camp I to Camp II 5 hr
Camp II to Camp III 4.5 hr
The weather was fine in the morning and I just walked downhill. I could not see them right after setting off. I met Litto after 1.5 hr. He told me that the game was over and he had called helicopter to take me down. I was really angry. Although I felt tired, I could walk myself with food and water. I continued ignoring his advice. I arrived at Camp II after 2 more hours. It was not so demanding and just walk , rest & drink.
I went to base camp from Camp II without stopping at Camp I. The direct drop 500m was too demanding and tiring as the body was very weak. Finally, I was back to base camp at 3:30p.m. 5 hours after start.
I met the German guy in the late afternoon. He had achieved the summit from Camp II (2:30a.m. start) to summit and back to base camp at 5:30p.m. It was incredible and amazing!
2009年4月19日 星期日
South America D73_77
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Salta#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Mendoza#
Date 73 10 Jan 2009 San Pedro
It was a rest day as no bus was going to Salta today. There were only two bus campanies providing service from San Pedro to Salta. But their schedules were the same Tue, Fri & Sun at 10:30a.m. I thought if they coordinated and adjusted their schedule, it was easy to provide service everyday. The prices were $28,000 & $38,000. It was crazy to have such a great difference in price.
I waked up at 8:20a.m. and it was the best sleep since in S.A. It was because of poor sleep in previous two days in Bolivar. Breakfast ( coffee + pan + 3 eggs ) cost $1950. I took a stroll in the town in the morning.
I calculated the money spending from the beginning once I was back to my room. It was just a summery. I spent $HK 600 each day on average which met the budget. In fact, I did not have tight budget. I would spend whenever necessary. No extravagant! No tight! It was meaningful & happy to spend as I liked.
Although Hotel Licancabur provided privacy, it was really boring. Every guest stayed in his room as there was no common room for sharing. Moreover, there was no books or any travel information. It might me my personal problem. The reason for such a trip was my unhappy experience. I came out travelling might be a matter of evading the reality. It was different from the previous travel such as in America & Australia when I was young and energetic. But it was completely different especially when I wrote down the age column in the registration book. Although I was travelling, I was still thinking about my future career. I was doubtful about finding a good school.
The previous travel was really三無： 無牽 、無掛 、無累。I would go anywhere I liked. Although the bank account did not have much money, I enjoyed travelling. It was undeniable that I was getting older as my white hair could not be covered.
The independent travel was toward the end as the expedition to Aconcagua started on 15 Jan 2009. It was just several days later. Lunch ($2900) was steak rice. I spent $500 reading HK news after a short sleep. I brought sweet grape $1000 and trout set dinner was $3300. The total expenditure was the slowest ($17800) today. I felt still hungry at 10:00p.m. and ordered a quarter of BBQ chicken ($1000) again.
Date 74 11 Jan 2009 San Pedro ~ Salta
I had nothing to do in the morning and went to carpark at 10:10a.m. waiting for Pullman bus. The bus arrived at 10:20 and left at 10:26a.m. The clearing of Argentina clearing was taken at San Pedro. The bus climbed to the border Paso de Jama. Many people took picture along the altiplano landscape which was not attractive to me. The driver assistant distributed plastic bag when the bus was over 4000m while the highest point was 4700m.
We arrived at Paso de Jama (4200m) at 1:30p.m. It was surprising that a lot of international bus waiting there. Some even went to Lima in Peru. But all came there at the same time. I thought they should do some coordination.
The Argentina Immigration computer could not read the data in my passport. They had to search it from hard copy and checked & input computer data many times. Finally, I was cleared after 1.5 hr and I started again at 3:30p.m. The bus descended to a salt lake and climbed again. The altiplano landscape was not new to me.
The bus did not stop and went forward. I saw a signage 211km from Salta at 5:00p.m. The bus descended from 4200m and it bended one by one( endlessly). Some bends were 180o turn. I also saw a lot of cactus and arrived at the bottom of valley at 1000m within an hour.
The valley had a lot of strange earth pillars but without taking picture. The bus continued to less than 1000m without stop. The vegetation was the topical plant. There was farming activities as well as camp ground. The bus stopped for getting off some passengers 12km from Jujuy. As no passenger dropped off at Jujury, so the bus drove directly to Salta. Finally, I arrived at 8:40p.m.
The information in bus station had only a black photocopy city map. I walked (20 min.) to Cerro Caminos Hostal myself and was allocated upper berth. The dormitory ($30) was the most spacious. I went outside to take dinner after a shower. It was really very hungry as I ate only some biscuit & bread in the past 12 hours.
The night scene on the Plaza 9 de Julio was really impressive. It was busy city centre and a lot of people taking dinner there. I found a small & quiet restaurant for dinner. Pizza $18 + $4 soft drink. I was so hungry that I ate 8 pieces of pizza.
Date 75 12 Jan 2009 Salta
I went to bus station in the morning. Breakfast $5 were 2 breads with hot chocolate. The bus schedule was 14:45, 21:00 (Full)& 22:15 to Mendoza. Afterward, I took cable car ($12) to San Sernado where had panaroma view of Salt. I went back to downtown to find some local tour. Cafayate one day tour cost only $100. Lunch ($32) was taken at Restaurant Cheucet. It was bread + steak + rice + fanta and I was full.
I went back to bus station to buy the ticket of departure at 14:45 and it was cama-class. It was hopefully arrived at 8:00 on 14 Jan to Mendoza. I would not do any sight-seeing tomorrow and wanted to take more rest.
I was back to hostel to take rest and wrote diary. I saw several Argentina girls and thought that they were young (20s). They did not go outside and just chat in the patio. They enjoyed such kind of travel style that Hong Kong people might regard as wasting time.
I went outside walk at 5:00p.m. and this time was local market which was very busy. There was a wide range of goods except camera. I was back to hostel at 7:00p.m. and wanted to go outside for dinner. But it was heavy rain and it was the first time since Ushuaia. I waited until the rain changed smaller to dinner. I choose a decent restaurant in the Plaza de Julio and sat in the window seat. Dinner ($36) was lamb set menu.
Date 76 13 Jan 2009 Salta~ Mendoza
I waked up at 7:30a.m. and took breakfast in the Plaza 9 de Julio. It was $7.5 breakfast & chocolate. The weather was fine and I sat outside. The temperature and breeze were comfortable. I was back to hostel at 10:00a.m. and went outside again at 11:00a.m. after packing up the luggage. Lunch ($20, fried chicken) was taken at 12:00a.m.
I was back to hostel again and left to bus station at 2:00p.m. I arrived at 2:25p.m. to the bus station while the bus turned out at 2:40p.m. My seat number was no. 9 which was the front seat in upper deck. I brought an ice-cream ($3) to eat before the bus started.
The bus left at 3:00p.m. and it drove along wide plain at 700~900m. It was sub-tropical climate and rather hot outside. I could see a lot of farmland but the scenery was boring. The air temperature was cooler when the sun set at 6:30p.m. The bus stopped at Tucuman (6:00p.m. )and La Rioja(1:20a.m.).
Date 77 14 Jan 2009 Salta~ Mendoza
The bus stopped at San Juan (6:50a.m.) and arrived at Mendoza(9:00a.m.). The total driving time was 18 hours. There were a lot of road junctions in small road and I was amazed that the driver could recognize the road at night. Normally I could buy some snack and drink at tea stop. Moreover, hot meal was provided in the bus. Therefore, it was easy to pass the time. The temperature was cool and comfortable at night. I wore a fleece to sleep and I slept very well (9:00p.m ~ 7:00a.m.) in cama-class.
I asked the information about the location of the Itaka Hoste and made a call to book a bed. I took a taxi ($8.3) to the hostel and it was the first time in S.A. I was surprised that the hostel paid the taxi fare. The dormitory cost $50 a night including breakfast. The room was too small to be jammed in 6 beds.
I went to downtown after shower but most shops were closed from 1:00 ~ 5:00p.m. I went to Hotel Huentala to leave a message to Au and hoped to dinner with him tonight. I was back to hostel for rest at 3:20p.m.
I went to downtown again at 6:00p.m. and arrived at Hotel Huentala at 8:30p.m. Au had just finished his check-in. We ordered a pizza as dinner in the plaza. There was full even in 10:00p.m.
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Mendoza#
Date 73 10 Jan 2009 San Pedro
It was a rest day as no bus was going to Salta today. There were only two bus campanies providing service from San Pedro to Salta. But their schedules were the same Tue, Fri & Sun at 10:30a.m. I thought if they coordinated and adjusted their schedule, it was easy to provide service everyday. The prices were $28,000 & $38,000. It was crazy to have such a great difference in price.
I waked up at 8:20a.m. and it was the best sleep since in S.A. It was because of poor sleep in previous two days in Bolivar. Breakfast ( coffee + pan + 3 eggs ) cost $1950. I took a stroll in the town in the morning.
I calculated the money spending from the beginning once I was back to my room. It was just a summery. I spent $HK 600 each day on average which met the budget. In fact, I did not have tight budget. I would spend whenever necessary. No extravagant! No tight! It was meaningful & happy to spend as I liked.
Although Hotel Licancabur provided privacy, it was really boring. Every guest stayed in his room as there was no common room for sharing. Moreover, there was no books or any travel information. It might me my personal problem. The reason for such a trip was my unhappy experience. I came out travelling might be a matter of evading the reality. It was different from the previous travel such as in America & Australia when I was young and energetic. But it was completely different especially when I wrote down the age column in the registration book. Although I was travelling, I was still thinking about my future career. I was doubtful about finding a good school.
The previous travel was really三無： 無牽 、無掛 、無累。I would go anywhere I liked. Although the bank account did not have much money, I enjoyed travelling. It was undeniable that I was getting older as my white hair could not be covered.
The independent travel was toward the end as the expedition to Aconcagua started on 15 Jan 2009. It was just several days later. Lunch ($2900) was steak rice. I spent $500 reading HK news after a short sleep. I brought sweet grape $1000 and trout set dinner was $3300. The total expenditure was the slowest ($17800) today. I felt still hungry at 10:00p.m. and ordered a quarter of BBQ chicken ($1000) again.
Date 74 11 Jan 2009 San Pedro ~ Salta
I had nothing to do in the morning and went to carpark at 10:10a.m. waiting for Pullman bus. The bus arrived at 10:20 and left at 10:26a.m. The clearing of Argentina clearing was taken at San Pedro. The bus climbed to the border Paso de Jama. Many people took picture along the altiplano landscape which was not attractive to me. The driver assistant distributed plastic bag when the bus was over 4000m while the highest point was 4700m.
We arrived at Paso de Jama (4200m) at 1:30p.m. It was surprising that a lot of international bus waiting there. Some even went to Lima in Peru. But all came there at the same time. I thought they should do some coordination.
The Argentina Immigration computer could not read the data in my passport. They had to search it from hard copy and checked & input computer data many times. Finally, I was cleared after 1.5 hr and I started again at 3:30p.m. The bus descended to a salt lake and climbed again. The altiplano landscape was not new to me.
The bus did not stop and went forward. I saw a signage 211km from Salta at 5:00p.m. The bus descended from 4200m and it bended one by one( endlessly). Some bends were 180o turn. I also saw a lot of cactus and arrived at the bottom of valley at 1000m within an hour.
The valley had a lot of strange earth pillars but without taking picture. The bus continued to less than 1000m without stop. The vegetation was the topical plant. There was farming activities as well as camp ground. The bus stopped for getting off some passengers 12km from Jujuy. As no passenger dropped off at Jujury, so the bus drove directly to Salta. Finally, I arrived at 8:40p.m.
The information in bus station had only a black photocopy city map. I walked (20 min.) to Cerro Caminos Hostal myself and was allocated upper berth. The dormitory ($30) was the most spacious. I went outside to take dinner after a shower. It was really very hungry as I ate only some biscuit & bread in the past 12 hours.
The night scene on the Plaza 9 de Julio was really impressive. It was busy city centre and a lot of people taking dinner there. I found a small & quiet restaurant for dinner. Pizza $18 + $4 soft drink. I was so hungry that I ate 8 pieces of pizza.
Date 75 12 Jan 2009 Salta
I went to bus station in the morning. Breakfast $5 were 2 breads with hot chocolate. The bus schedule was 14:45, 21:00 (Full)& 22:15 to Mendoza. Afterward, I took cable car ($12) to San Sernado where had panaroma view of Salt. I went back to downtown to find some local tour. Cafayate one day tour cost only $100. Lunch ($32) was taken at Restaurant Cheucet. It was bread + steak + rice + fanta and I was full.
I went back to bus station to buy the ticket of departure at 14:45 and it was cama-class. It was hopefully arrived at 8:00 on 14 Jan to Mendoza. I would not do any sight-seeing tomorrow and wanted to take more rest.
I was back to hostel to take rest and wrote diary. I saw several Argentina girls and thought that they were young (20s). They did not go outside and just chat in the patio. They enjoyed such kind of travel style that Hong Kong people might regard as wasting time.
I went outside walk at 5:00p.m. and this time was local market which was very busy. There was a wide range of goods except camera. I was back to hostel at 7:00p.m. and wanted to go outside for dinner. But it was heavy rain and it was the first time since Ushuaia. I waited until the rain changed smaller to dinner. I choose a decent restaurant in the Plaza de Julio and sat in the window seat. Dinner ($36) was lamb set menu.
Date 76 13 Jan 2009 Salta~ Mendoza
I waked up at 7:30a.m. and took breakfast in the Plaza 9 de Julio. It was $7.5 breakfast & chocolate. The weather was fine and I sat outside. The temperature and breeze were comfortable. I was back to hostel at 10:00a.m. and went outside again at 11:00a.m. after packing up the luggage. Lunch ($20, fried chicken) was taken at 12:00a.m.
I was back to hostel again and left to bus station at 2:00p.m. I arrived at 2:25p.m. to the bus station while the bus turned out at 2:40p.m. My seat number was no. 9 which was the front seat in upper deck. I brought an ice-cream ($3) to eat before the bus started.
The bus left at 3:00p.m. and it drove along wide plain at 700~900m. It was sub-tropical climate and rather hot outside. I could see a lot of farmland but the scenery was boring. The air temperature was cooler when the sun set at 6:30p.m. The bus stopped at Tucuman (6:00p.m. )and La Rioja(1:20a.m.).
Date 77 14 Jan 2009 Salta~ Mendoza
The bus stopped at San Juan (6:50a.m.) and arrived at Mendoza(9:00a.m.). The total driving time was 18 hours. There were a lot of road junctions in small road and I was amazed that the driver could recognize the road at night. Normally I could buy some snack and drink at tea stop. Moreover, hot meal was provided in the bus. Therefore, it was easy to pass the time. The temperature was cool and comfortable at night. I wore a fleece to sleep and I slept very well (9:00p.m ~ 7:00a.m.) in cama-class.
I asked the information about the location of the Itaka Hoste and made a call to book a bed. I took a taxi ($8.3) to the hostel and it was the first time in S.A. I was surprised that the hostel paid the taxi fare. The dormitory cost $50 a night including breakfast. The room was too small to be jammed in 6 beds.
I went to downtown after shower but most shops were closed from 1:00 ~ 5:00p.m. I went to Hotel Huentala to leave a message to Au and hoped to dinner with him tonight. I was back to hostel for rest at 3:20p.m.
I went to downtown again at 6:00p.m. and arrived at Hotel Huentala at 8:30p.m. Au had just finished his check-in. We ordered a pizza as dinner in the plaza. There was full even in 10:00p.m.
2009年4月17日 星期五
South America D69_D72
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Bolivia02#
Date 69 6 Jan 2009 Bolivar
I waited in the Colque Tour Office at 7:45a.m. Many people were also waiting. They included day-tour, 3-days-tour and 4-days tour. The mini-bus came at 8:10a.m. and departed at 8:30a.m. It drove along the same road to Toco Hill. The land was covered with fresh snow layer as there was snowing in the evening. It was very beautiful. The driver stopped at a scenic point to take picture. I could see the Volcano Licancarbur.
We arrived at the border (4500m) at 10:30a.m. The driver helped me to talk with the Bolivar officer about my entry visa. They said that I was allowed to entry for one day only. I explained and negotiated with them the 4-day visa. Finally, I agreed to pay US$ 50 as entry fee (corruption fee) but without any chop in my passport.
I needed to change into 4 wheel drive car after immigration clearing. Although the car was a 10 years old Toyata Land Cruiser, the performance was quite good. I was allocated into a car going to Uyuni directly instead of starting the tour today. Two other people were already on the car. They started 4-days tour from Uyuni and it was the last day to go back. I felt rather strange but it was also ok. It was rather comfortable as only 4 people in the car.
We passed through Laguna Verde but without stop and took a toilet ($400) stop at Geyser de Sol de Manano after an hour. The salt lake was very beautiful. I wanted to use G7 camera to take photo but the LCD monitor was malfunction. So I used my back up camera (Sony T10) but it's LCD monitor had a black spot too. It was really『禍不單行』and I felt frustrated.
The car climbed continuously at the highest point 4700m which was higher than highway in Tibet. The landscape was arid and boring. We arrived at Maliku Villa Mar at 2:30p.m. and took lunch there. We continued at 3:15p.m. and drove down was easily and faster to 3800m. The weather was hot and the road was dusty even in such high altitude. We also took a short break at small village Villa Alota & San Cristobal. Finally, I arrived at Uyuni at 6:30p.m.
I made registration at the Colque Tour office and stayed in the hotel situated in the opposite corner. I was allocated a double room with private bathroom. Although the room was simple, but it was clean and was the best one in South America. I thought it valued for US$ 20 a night. All was included in the tour price US$ 125.
I went to main street after a comfortable shower. Although Uyuni was a small town, the street was full of tourists, mostly were backpacker. They clustered in the central plaza where had a lot of tour agents, hotels and restaurants.
I brought $20 Bolivar for BBQ steak, $13 for 2L water & $2.5 checking email. The dinner was simple ( soup + pollo + rice ).In fact, it was driving without any sight-seeing points today.
Date 70 7 Jan 2009 Bolivar
The car picked me up at 10:30a.m. This Land Cruiser was older than that on yesterday. All meters were out of order. It departed from Uyuni at 11:30a.m. after picking up all people ( 2 Lesbian middle age ladies, one couple and me). The first stop was salt museum and local market. All buildings and statue in salt museum were made in salt. It was very hard.
The engine could not start when we wanted to leave. The driver took 30 minutes to fix it.
We went to a train grave later. There was a lot of abandoned train and train head. It was very funny to jump and climb over them. But it had quite a lot of rubbish.
We picked up one more Japanese guest in Hotel Lunar Salada near salt lake. This hotel was made in salt and was a deluxe one. It had opened for two years only and $US 80 a night.
We drove along unpaved road and it was dusty. I arrived at the rim of Salar de Uyuni at 1:30p.m. It was incredible beautiful. The salt lake was filled with a layer (3 inches) of water as there was raining in the past few days. The shadow of car was silhouetted by blue sky & white cloud. It was similar to『海市晨樓』。
I stopped and took a lot of photos. We drove over the lake. Some people climbed into the top of the car. The water formed ripple when the car was driving though. We just liked 『陸上行舟』。 We stopped beside several small salt knolls. They were made by salt worker. We left the car and walked on the water. I wore my waterproof mountain boots while others walked with their bare foot. I stepped on the salt knoll to take picture.
The salt lake was very large that we drove over it until 3:00p.m. to arrive at Isla de Pescado. Lunch prepared by the driver was taken. Pescado was a small hill inside the salt lake and was similar an oasis in desert. There was a lot of cactus in this island. It was just a short walk to the top. I looked around the salt lake. The white color of salt was reflected by blue sky light seemed to be a giant ocean. The breath-taking view could not easily described by any words.
We took some picture on some dried surface. The land formed pentagonal salt crystal surface which formed a large area extending far end. There was some water hole at certain places. The car continued driving until 5:30p.m. to leave the salt lake which we drove 4 hours across it.
I had been in various salt lakes and walked or drove along the lakeside. It was normally gray colour and dirty. However, I went across it and the colour was crystal white. Moreover, mirror images formed in the water surface of the lake. I had not been in such beautiful scenery. It was almost the highlight of South America trip!
Beside Hotel Luna Salada, I also visited Salt Lake Hotel that I had seen in the Travel and Leisure Channel. Actor Ian had introduced it. $20 a night. It recalled my memory. In fact, I had recalled many memories in this trip.
We stayed in the Chuvica Village near the salt lake and we were the only group today.
Date 71 8 Jan 2009 Bolivar
打鼻寒is an normal and personal matter. We slept at 9:30p.m. and I fell asleep in a short time. Suddenly, I was awakened by somebody. I just saw some light from the corner of two lesbians. Anyway, I fall asleep again and was awakened again an hour later by the lesbian lady. She told me that "Wake up! You are too noisy!" I thought that her brain had problem. We were staying in a dormitory room instead of private one. This was the first time to be awakened. The same thing happened for 4 times at that night. I was too angry to tell her that it was a dormitory and not a private room in the last time.
I waked up at 6:00a.m. and departed at 7:30a.m. There were only six of us staying in the Chuvica Village Hostal which had more than 10 room. Each room was spacious and could accommodate 6 people.
We arrived at San Juan at 8:30a.m. I was amazed to see Coco Cola & Sprite advertisement in such a remote village. The car continued to drive across dried salt lake surface. There was no formal road and the car followed the track or trail left by previous cars. We climbed to a look out to see Volcano Ollague (5863m). I could see the whole picture of this Volcano on the way but could only see the top only there.
We continued to climb along gravel road and we were required to leave the car in some steep slope so as to allow the car to drive uphill. I could see the Laguna Canapa at 11:30a.m. which was really beautiful. It was an emerald blue lake with white salt lakeshore. There were lot of flamingoes and their mirrors were reflected in the lake.
We arrived Laguna Hedionda at 12:00a.m. The driver dropped me at the lakeside and I walked along the lake to the picnic place. I took a lot of flamingo photos and this was the best photo-shooting venue. Toilet fee was $5. I found my own free place.
We started again at 1:20p.m. and the next stop was Laguna Ramaditas which was grand and deep. The car drove uphill between valleys. It was freedom to move alternately between valley and screed road. The higher we went, the wider was the road while the hill seemed to be small. In fact, it was already 4600m and the sky was deep blue. I was surprised that the land was dry and arid. It seemed that no raining for a long time.
We arrived at "Strange Rock Forest" at 3:00p.m. where the wind was gusty. There were several strange rocks carved by wind. I had climbed two of it and also guide some young Argentina to climb. I found it funny and had not exercise for a long time.
The later part was easy downhill in a wide plain and chasing each other with other car. We arrived at Laguna Colorada at 4:30p.m. and entered the hostal after paying $30. The hostal was as primitive as hostel of China in 20 years ago. 6 people were jammed in a small room. 8 rooms shared a dirty mixed-sex toilet.
I went outside walk and returned after 10 minutes as it was really windy. I wore down jacket to go out again at 6:30p.m. I walked to the look out again after 30 minutes. There was numerous flamingoes illuminated by golden yellow sunset light. I was very impressed by such stunning view and appricated until sunset. The dinner consisted of soap, bread and plain spaghetti only.
Date 72 9 Jan 2009 Bolivar ~ San Pedro
I went to toilet at mid-night. The sky was cloudless with uncountable stars. It was tranquil in the surrounding. 『繁星萬顆，萬籟俱寂。』 I waked up at 4:30a.m. and departed at 5:00a.m. while outside temperature was 1oC.
A lot of cars drove under the headlamp in mid-night. We arrived at Geyser de sol se Manana at 6:00a.m. The geyser area was small and the land was loose. I found a small geyser to take picture.
We got to another geyser later. The Canadian lady took a bath there. I arrived at Luguna Verde at 8:00a.m. I saw Volcano Licancabur (~6000m) and its mirror image was reflected in the lake. The sky was emerald blue. The scenery was breath-taking. I had only seen this kind of landscape in Yosemite Valley (USA) 20 years ago.
I took breakfast as 8:30a.m. and reached the border at 9:00a.m. I changed bus and was back to San Pedro at 12:00a.m. I also stayed in the Hotel Licancabur where I stayed for 6 days and it was the longest stay hotel.
This 4-days-tour was always the highlight of SA trip. It was the cheapest and most beautiful. But my companions of the car were boring. 2 lesbians (40's) were erratic. One Canadian pair had their circle. The Japanese was hard to communicate in English. I met a car carrying 4 Argentina & 2 beautiful Switzerland girls. They were young and energy. They sometimes climbed salt hill, sometimes climbed climb rock & hill. I felt they were very happy and enjoyed it. But I was very unlucky to be a solo backpacker.
The itinerary was rich:
Day 1
San Pedro, Cross border (US$ 50) at 4400m, Laguna Capaina, Local town lunch Mailka Village, wonderful landscape over 5000m but 2 cameras out of order at the same time, San Cristobal &Uyuni
Day 2
Uyuni Salt lake tour transverse; salt lake hotel & Luna Lake Hotel;recall my memory from A1 channel; Isla del Pescado ( Cactus island ); Chuvica Hotel ( deluxe hotel for 6 people )
Day 3
San Juan
Watch numerous flamingoes in altiplano lakes: Laguna Canapa, Laguna Hedionda, Laguna Ramaditas & Laguna Colorada ; Rocky forest : Salvador Dali.
Day 4
Volcano Licancabur mirror image
The summery of the trip were altiplano lake, salt lake, flamingo & stunning view of Licancabur. The super value was $US 125.
Date 69 6 Jan 2009 Bolivar
I waited in the Colque Tour Office at 7:45a.m. Many people were also waiting. They included day-tour, 3-days-tour and 4-days tour. The mini-bus came at 8:10a.m. and departed at 8:30a.m. It drove along the same road to Toco Hill. The land was covered with fresh snow layer as there was snowing in the evening. It was very beautiful. The driver stopped at a scenic point to take picture. I could see the Volcano Licancarbur.
We arrived at the border (4500m) at 10:30a.m. The driver helped me to talk with the Bolivar officer about my entry visa. They said that I was allowed to entry for one day only. I explained and negotiated with them the 4-day visa. Finally, I agreed to pay US$ 50 as entry fee (corruption fee) but without any chop in my passport.
I needed to change into 4 wheel drive car after immigration clearing. Although the car was a 10 years old Toyata Land Cruiser, the performance was quite good. I was allocated into a car going to Uyuni directly instead of starting the tour today. Two other people were already on the car. They started 4-days tour from Uyuni and it was the last day to go back. I felt rather strange but it was also ok. It was rather comfortable as only 4 people in the car.
We passed through Laguna Verde but without stop and took a toilet ($400) stop at Geyser de Sol de Manano after an hour. The salt lake was very beautiful. I wanted to use G7 camera to take photo but the LCD monitor was malfunction. So I used my back up camera (Sony T10) but it's LCD monitor had a black spot too. It was really『禍不單行』and I felt frustrated.
The car climbed continuously at the highest point 4700m which was higher than highway in Tibet. The landscape was arid and boring. We arrived at Maliku Villa Mar at 2:30p.m. and took lunch there. We continued at 3:15p.m. and drove down was easily and faster to 3800m. The weather was hot and the road was dusty even in such high altitude. We also took a short break at small village Villa Alota & San Cristobal. Finally, I arrived at Uyuni at 6:30p.m.
I made registration at the Colque Tour office and stayed in the hotel situated in the opposite corner. I was allocated a double room with private bathroom. Although the room was simple, but it was clean and was the best one in South America. I thought it valued for US$ 20 a night. All was included in the tour price US$ 125.
I went to main street after a comfortable shower. Although Uyuni was a small town, the street was full of tourists, mostly were backpacker. They clustered in the central plaza where had a lot of tour agents, hotels and restaurants.
I brought $20 Bolivar for BBQ steak, $13 for 2L water & $2.5 checking email. The dinner was simple ( soup + pollo + rice ).In fact, it was driving without any sight-seeing points today.
Date 70 7 Jan 2009 Bolivar
The car picked me up at 10:30a.m. This Land Cruiser was older than that on yesterday. All meters were out of order. It departed from Uyuni at 11:30a.m. after picking up all people ( 2 Lesbian middle age ladies, one couple and me). The first stop was salt museum and local market. All buildings and statue in salt museum were made in salt. It was very hard.
The engine could not start when we wanted to leave. The driver took 30 minutes to fix it.
We went to a train grave later. There was a lot of abandoned train and train head. It was very funny to jump and climb over them. But it had quite a lot of rubbish.
We picked up one more Japanese guest in Hotel Lunar Salada near salt lake. This hotel was made in salt and was a deluxe one. It had opened for two years only and $US 80 a night.
We drove along unpaved road and it was dusty. I arrived at the rim of Salar de Uyuni at 1:30p.m. It was incredible beautiful. The salt lake was filled with a layer (3 inches) of water as there was raining in the past few days. The shadow of car was silhouetted by blue sky & white cloud. It was similar to『海市晨樓』。
I stopped and took a lot of photos. We drove over the lake. Some people climbed into the top of the car. The water formed ripple when the car was driving though. We just liked 『陸上行舟』。 We stopped beside several small salt knolls. They were made by salt worker. We left the car and walked on the water. I wore my waterproof mountain boots while others walked with their bare foot. I stepped on the salt knoll to take picture.
The salt lake was very large that we drove over it until 3:00p.m. to arrive at Isla de Pescado. Lunch prepared by the driver was taken. Pescado was a small hill inside the salt lake and was similar an oasis in desert. There was a lot of cactus in this island. It was just a short walk to the top. I looked around the salt lake. The white color of salt was reflected by blue sky light seemed to be a giant ocean. The breath-taking view could not easily described by any words.
We took some picture on some dried surface. The land formed pentagonal salt crystal surface which formed a large area extending far end. There was some water hole at certain places. The car continued driving until 5:30p.m. to leave the salt lake which we drove 4 hours across it.
I had been in various salt lakes and walked or drove along the lakeside. It was normally gray colour and dirty. However, I went across it and the colour was crystal white. Moreover, mirror images formed in the water surface of the lake. I had not been in such beautiful scenery. It was almost the highlight of South America trip!
Beside Hotel Luna Salada, I also visited Salt Lake Hotel that I had seen in the Travel and Leisure Channel. Actor Ian had introduced it. $20 a night. It recalled my memory. In fact, I had recalled many memories in this trip.
We stayed in the Chuvica Village near the salt lake and we were the only group today.
Date 71 8 Jan 2009 Bolivar
打鼻寒is an normal and personal matter. We slept at 9:30p.m. and I fell asleep in a short time. Suddenly, I was awakened by somebody. I just saw some light from the corner of two lesbians. Anyway, I fall asleep again and was awakened again an hour later by the lesbian lady. She told me that "Wake up! You are too noisy!" I thought that her brain had problem. We were staying in a dormitory room instead of private one. This was the first time to be awakened. The same thing happened for 4 times at that night. I was too angry to tell her that it was a dormitory and not a private room in the last time.
I waked up at 6:00a.m. and departed at 7:30a.m. There were only six of us staying in the Chuvica Village Hostal which had more than 10 room. Each room was spacious and could accommodate 6 people.
We arrived at San Juan at 8:30a.m. I was amazed to see Coco Cola & Sprite advertisement in such a remote village. The car continued to drive across dried salt lake surface. There was no formal road and the car followed the track or trail left by previous cars. We climbed to a look out to see Volcano Ollague (5863m). I could see the whole picture of this Volcano on the way but could only see the top only there.
We continued to climb along gravel road and we were required to leave the car in some steep slope so as to allow the car to drive uphill. I could see the Laguna Canapa at 11:30a.m. which was really beautiful. It was an emerald blue lake with white salt lakeshore. There were lot of flamingoes and their mirrors were reflected in the lake.
We arrived Laguna Hedionda at 12:00a.m. The driver dropped me at the lakeside and I walked along the lake to the picnic place. I took a lot of flamingo photos and this was the best photo-shooting venue. Toilet fee was $5. I found my own free place.
We started again at 1:20p.m. and the next stop was Laguna Ramaditas which was grand and deep. The car drove uphill between valleys. It was freedom to move alternately between valley and screed road. The higher we went, the wider was the road while the hill seemed to be small. In fact, it was already 4600m and the sky was deep blue. I was surprised that the land was dry and arid. It seemed that no raining for a long time.
We arrived at "Strange Rock Forest" at 3:00p.m. where the wind was gusty. There were several strange rocks carved by wind. I had climbed two of it and also guide some young Argentina to climb. I found it funny and had not exercise for a long time.
The later part was easy downhill in a wide plain and chasing each other with other car. We arrived at Laguna Colorada at 4:30p.m. and entered the hostal after paying $30. The hostal was as primitive as hostel of China in 20 years ago. 6 people were jammed in a small room. 8 rooms shared a dirty mixed-sex toilet.
I went outside walk and returned after 10 minutes as it was really windy. I wore down jacket to go out again at 6:30p.m. I walked to the look out again after 30 minutes. There was numerous flamingoes illuminated by golden yellow sunset light. I was very impressed by such stunning view and appricated until sunset. The dinner consisted of soap, bread and plain spaghetti only.
Date 72 9 Jan 2009 Bolivar ~ San Pedro
I went to toilet at mid-night. The sky was cloudless with uncountable stars. It was tranquil in the surrounding. 『繁星萬顆，萬籟俱寂。』 I waked up at 4:30a.m. and departed at 5:00a.m. while outside temperature was 1oC.
A lot of cars drove under the headlamp in mid-night. We arrived at Geyser de sol se Manana at 6:00a.m. The geyser area was small and the land was loose. I found a small geyser to take picture.
We got to another geyser later. The Canadian lady took a bath there. I arrived at Luguna Verde at 8:00a.m. I saw Volcano Licancabur (~6000m) and its mirror image was reflected in the lake. The sky was emerald blue. The scenery was breath-taking. I had only seen this kind of landscape in Yosemite Valley (USA) 20 years ago.
I took breakfast as 8:30a.m. and reached the border at 9:00a.m. I changed bus and was back to San Pedro at 12:00a.m. I also stayed in the Hotel Licancabur where I stayed for 6 days and it was the longest stay hotel.
This 4-days-tour was always the highlight of SA trip. It was the cheapest and most beautiful. But my companions of the car were boring. 2 lesbians (40's) were erratic. One Canadian pair had their circle. The Japanese was hard to communicate in English. I met a car carrying 4 Argentina & 2 beautiful Switzerland girls. They were young and energy. They sometimes climbed salt hill, sometimes climbed climb rock & hill. I felt they were very happy and enjoyed it. But I was very unlucky to be a solo backpacker.
The itinerary was rich:
Day 1
San Pedro, Cross border (US$ 50) at 4400m, Laguna Capaina, Local town lunch Mailka Village, wonderful landscape over 5000m but 2 cameras out of order at the same time, San Cristobal &Uyuni
Day 2
Uyuni Salt lake tour transverse; salt lake hotel & Luna Lake Hotel;recall my memory from A1 channel; Isla del Pescado ( Cactus island ); Chuvica Hotel ( deluxe hotel for 6 people )
Day 3
San Juan
Watch numerous flamingoes in altiplano lakes: Laguna Canapa, Laguna Hedionda, Laguna Ramaditas & Laguna Colorada ; Rocky forest : Salvador Dali.
Day 4
Volcano Licancabur mirror image
The summery of the trip were altiplano lake, salt lake, flamingo & stunning view of Licancabur. The super value was $US 125.
2009年4月15日 星期三
South America Trip D59_D68
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Parinacota#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/San_Pedro#
Date 59 27 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and took MTR from Los Heros to University de Santiago station. It took 10 minutes for travelling 4 stations. The MTR ticket was about $HK 3.8 and valid for the whole route.
The bus came at 7:20a.m. and it was double deck one. The lower deck was cama-class while it was semi-cama in the upper. I had not seen whole cama class bus in Chile. Simple breakfast was served in the bus.
I slept once the bus started. I saw the Pacific Ocean when I waked up an hour later. I was moved by it as I lived in the other side of the Pacific Ocean. The bus drove along the Pan-America Highway which was from Alaska to Ushuaia. The right hand side was semi-desert on the way. I arrived at La Serena at 13:30, Vallenar at 5:00p.m. & Copiapo at 6:50p.m.
Date 60 28 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica
The bus stopped in Antofasgasta at 2:30 a.m. and three people boarded. The bus took a tea stop in Iquique at 8:00a.m. I was still hunger after eating peach. I brought sandwich & coffee ($1,000) outside bus station. The hot meal was excellent. The toilet had machine for collecting fee($200). I arrived at the Arica at 1:00p.m.
The bus station was 1km from city center and I could not find the location of bus station. Therefore, I took a taxi ($1,600) to the Hostal del Sol. Single room cost $9,000 a night with private toilet.
I asked the reception about bus information to Putre. However, she did not understand English. So I took collective taxi ($450) to bus station to ask. Some bus companies said 1:00p.m. or 2:00p.m departure. One people told me to find the company La Paloma. But I could not find it for 30 minutes. I returned to the international terminal to buy ticket ($4000) to Putre. But she said that bus only stopped at the road junction and I needed to walk 4km to Putre. I hoped I did not have mountain sickness.
Date 61 29 Dec 2008 Arica ~ Putre
I went to Jesus Statue on the small hill in the morning. I could see the harbour on the Pacific Ocean. The view was nice. I went to downtown in 21 de Majo street. It was cool on Sunday yesterday. Now it was hot as all shops were opened and it was really a city. The product was targeted at local people and some were for Bolivar and Peru. There were Chinese restaurant and grocery. They also sold instant cup noodle, 豆豉鯪魚和珠江僑牌生油.
I came back to hostel at 10:50a.m. I stored the luggage after checking and sent email. I set off for lunch at 12:00a.m. As dinner was too cheap ($2300) yesterday, I went to a better restaurant for lunch ($4300) that was bread + salad + carne + rice + juice. It was very delicious and full. I collected luggage from hostel at 1:00p.m. and walked(30 minutes) to bus station. I was totally wet as it was hot desert city.
The bus arrived at 2:30 and departed at 2:40 p.m. There were only two passengers in this double deck bus. It seemed that I chartered the bus and was a VIP. The first 20 minutes road was on the plain desert. The bus climbed uphill later and the speed could maintain 70~80km/hr as the road condition was good. I slept for a while and waked up later at 3500m.
The bus dropped me down at the road junction to Putre at 5:20p.m. I needed to walk 5km with my 23kg at 3800m. I hoped to finish within 1.5 hour. But I thought I would get a lift on the way. I met a truck and luckily to have a lift after 20 minutes walk. He dropped me down on the main road after 5 minutes.
I stayed in La Paloma Hostel ($7000) and asked several travel agents in the main street. I was surprised that I was the sole traveller today. Finally, I needed to charter a 2-day tour in "Tour Andino". The manager was sincerely to help me. The price was $120,000, super price. In fact, the price was the same for two people, 50% save! It included a four-wheel drive truck and a driver. The tour would visit Termas Jurasi, Chucuyo, Parinacota, Lago Chungara, Salar de Surire,...
Date 62 30 Dec 2008 Putre ~ Salar de Surire
I went to Tour Andino at 7:00a.m. A young boy opened the office at 7:10a.m. He was the driver as well as guide. We departed at 7:40a.m. under cloudy sky. It climbed to 4200m- pass within half hour. It was snowing and the ground was covered with fresh snow.
The first tourist point was local trap for llama. It was so cool that I needed to wear down jacket. The truck drove into the main road and changed into a small road later. We went into temperate grassland where I saw much more Alpaca, Viscuna & llama. They were wild animals and freedom to go anywhere in this protected area. I also saw some abandoned village. We went back to main road to Village Guallatini. There was a small chapel but no one was there.
I arrived at Salar de Surise at 1:00p.m. It supposed to be large. However, I saw it was not too great. We made registration at the park office. They said that it was closed from today until 5 Jan. How come! It was the only accommodation there and I needed to turn back today. I explained that I came from Hong Kong and requested them to give a special permission. The officer gave us permission after making a radio call. The accommodation was tidy and clean. I and my guide were the only persons tonight and the officer has left for holiday.
We started the tour to salt lake circle, mainly watching flamingoes. It was fascinating to see from far away. They would fly away when I moved closer. I could only take good photos far away. There was many viscuna too. The tour had several stop on the lakeside and back to park office after four hour. The attitude was about 4200m and I was some syndrome of mountain sickness. I had to take a rest before dinner. We could use the kitchen and prepare simple diner. It was complete silent outside.
Date 64 31 Dec 2008 Salar de Surire ~ Putre
I waked up at 7:00a.m. in the new year eve of 2008. We returned on the same road. The sunshine was very strong but it was cloudy in the surrounding mountains. It was temperate grassland along the road and the grass was short and small. The truck turned into a small road after crossing Guallatiri village and took a break near a little geyser.
We wanted to leave after a short break. However, the engine could not be started. We tried to push the truck to start and it was too heavy to move in 4300m. We hopelessly rested after 15 minutes effort. It was luckily that a police petrol car passed by and three police got off the car to offer help. The truck was easily moved by four people and the engine was started immediately.
We continued the winding road over many mountains. Mt. Parinacota was partly seen under the cloudy sky. Surrounding mountains were much more beautiful. I still could not see the Mt. Parinacota in the look-out point. We went to Lagunas Cotacotani after lunch. It consists of many small blue colour lakes. Our truck was hard to ride on the rough road and stop at the end of the road. We walked 15 minutes to another look out point. I needed to put extra effort in climbing a small knoll. The Mt.Parinacota (6350m)and Pomerape(6240m) could be seen in good weather. It was pity that the weather was cloudy. The guide told me that I walked along the lakeside and he went to take the car. I had walked for 20 minutes without meeting him and led astray. Finally, I used my common sense and followed the cycling track to meet my guide again.
We visited Parinacota village later and there was a little church that was nothing special. Las Cuevas was the last place. It was a cave that was home for people in 9500 years ago.
As I could not see the view of Volcano Parinacota, I booked the driver to go again tomorrow if the weather was fine. I stayed in Cali Hostel ($6000) which was better than La Paloma. Although it was cloudy in the last two days, it had not rained. The wild life was rich and the highlight were
Viscuna : fast runner ;
llama : slow walker ;
Alpaca : black and different from Peru and infinite many flamingoes.
Although the number of flamingoes was less than Kenya, I could see them in various places. They were very beautiful when they were flying.
I took dinner in an expansive restaurant which was only one still opening in the eve of 2009. The dinner ($11000) consisted of salad, llama steak and tea. Salad was quite good. The meat of llama was similar to beef.
Date 63 1 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and the weather was fine. I waited the tour guide at 7:30a.m. and he turned up at 8:30a.m. But he said that he would not go. However, there was 6 people would go Parinacota. I could join them and chartered a bus to Arica in the evening. Parinacota trip was ($11000) and $5000 to Arica.
We set off the day tour at 9:30a.m. but the sun was disappeared after 20 minutes. I could see viscuna, llama & alpaca and arrived at the Chungara Lake at 11:30a.m. Although it was sunshine, I still could not see the Volcano Parinacota. I took some picture of flamingoes in the lake. We visited Parinacota village in the afternoon. It was hailstorm when I arrived at the village and everything was white while it was blue yesterday. The summit of Parinacota was seen on the way back. It was like 『一天有四季』.
I came back to Putre at 2:30p.m. and left at 4:30p.m. The van arrived at Arica international bus station at 7:00p.m. I brought the last bus ticket ( Tur bus $16200) to San Pedro de Acatama. Luggage was stored ($1000) in the bus station and walked (30 minutes) to downtown for dinner. Most restaurants were closed on New Year Eve. It was hard to find a local food stall for dinner. I ordered chicken soup set dinner and beef soup set($3400).
I walked back to bus station after dinner. But I was astray in night and had to ask local to find out the right direction to bus station. I arrived at 9:10p.m. and the bus departed at 9:30p.m. It was full and my seat was near the toilet.
Date 65 2 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
I was awaken up in the bus at 3:40a.m. All passengers were required to get off the bus and luggage was checked. I was surprised there existed such a crazy thing that people travelling within their country needed to be checked in mid-night. In fact, the checking was not serious!
I arrived at Calama at 6:40a.m. It was more incredible that the bus had to wait until 8:00a.m. to go to San Pedro. Finally, I arrived at 11:00a.m.
San Petro was an oasis. I walked through the main street which was full of travel agents and restaurants. When I arrived at Hostal Eden Atacama, it was full today. I asked two more hostels and stayed in Hotel Licancabur. A single room cost $8000 with shared bathroom. The room was small with only one lamp. The hotel did provide electric converter so I had to buy one($2000).
I asked several agents to plan the activities in the following days and choose the "Cosmo Andino" agent.
(a) El Tatio Geyser $22500
(b) Altipano Lakes $32500
(c) Tovohill trek (5604m) $50,000
The total price was only $105,000 while ice climbing was pricey $100,000 in Grey Glacier and it was only 2 hours.
I had a lunch ( $4950 )in a decent restaurant. Laundry charge was $2500. I also brought some grape and apple. The price was slight higher than Santiago. However, the internet charge ($500 / half hour )was more expansive. But the speed was very slow and I only send 2 mails in 15 minutes. Ticket to Salta was $28,000.
I searched through San Pedro without finding a cheap restaurant. I brought a BBQ chicken ($2000) as dinner. I took a leisure walk after dinner. There were several agents offering 4-days-trip to Bolivar (US$ 135). However, Hong Kong people required visa to enter the Bolivar. The agent helped me to asked whether I could enter Bolivar tomorrow. Maybe, I needed to pay US100 as corruption fee to enter.
Date 66 3 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The tour bus picked me up at 7:15a.m. and the first stop was Laguna Chaxa which was a salt lake and the entrance fee was $2000. The altitude was 2800m and the main attraction was flamingoes. However, the number of them was less than Parinacota. They were not afraid of human so I could easily take photo. The breakfast was rich and full including coca tea, tea, coffee, bread, cheese,.. and various jam.
The second stop was a little village Camar at altitude 3200m. The main highlight was a chapel which had white-colored wall. The sky was blue with beautiful cloud. The scenery was fascinating. This stop was good for acclimatization.
The bus climbed uphill to 4200m. The land was covered with pale yellow colored grass which was short. The volcanoes were shadowed by cloudless blue sky. I paid $2000 as the entrance fee for the Laguna Miniques & Miscanti. I could see them once I passed through the entrance gate. They were as beautiful as heaven and I arrived at 11:50a.m.
I got off at Laguna Miscanti which was a salt lake with emerald blue colour water. The mountain Miscanti (>5000m) was just beside the lake. I walked from there to Laguna Miniques and took many photos on the way. I was impressed by such a stunning view that I had not seen before. The lunch was offered at the Laguna Miniques and it was the same standard.
We stopped at the town Tocanaco on return journey and was back to hotel at 5:00p.m. I went outside to find a budget restaurant to have dinner after a rest. It was difficult to find a set menu at $5000~6000. I brought a take-away fried chicken ($2000) to eat.
When I was searching the dinner, I came to the "Coloque Tour" agent. It had the 4-days tour ($US125) to Bolivar. However, I needed to entry visa. The tour manager said that some Hong Kong people could enter Bolivar without any problem. The possible entry fee might be US$ 100. Therefore, I booked the tour on 6~9 Jan 2009 which had 4 Germans and me.
I would climb Toco Hill (5604m) tomorrow. I had not hike for more than a week since the Pucon and felt a little bit 頹廢。I was sight-seeing in recent days and saw the traditional tourists instead of trekkers. I hoped it was better tomorrow.
Date 67 4 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The guide picked up at 7:15a.m. Beside me, there were 2 girls and one male. But we did not have too much conservation. The ladies were young and beautiful.
The four-wheel drive truck was new and drove along the road to Bolivar. We turned into small road near the boundary. The truck was winding uphill for another 30 minutes. We arrived the starting point (5200m) at 8:40a.m. I did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness as I took 2 dosages of diamox.
We set off at 8:50a.m. and I thought that it was not difficult as it was only 400m climb. But I was afraid of the altitude. The truck took me from 2400m to 5200m within an hour that I had not tried before.
The path was along gentle slope. There was snow crystal on the ground. I was the slowest one as usual. The guide was so kind as to take care of me from time to time. He told me that we had sufficient time and no need to hurry. I took rest for every 20~30 minutes. I could see the mountain of Bolivar. It was surprising that there was no snow in such a high altitude. It had only yellow colour grassland and gray colour clay. I felt boring in this scenery. The guide led us along the gentle slope. I was surprised that other people were walking so fast and did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness. But I had to take rest from time to time.
I reached the summit (5604m) at 10:40a.m. We celebrated together. They were very excited but I did not have any feeling. Although I reached the highest point since in South America, it was too easy and boring on the way. I recalled climbing the Volcano Lanin(3776m). I needed to wear crampon and ice-axe to climb screed slope, snowy slope to reach the summit( 12 hours ). The hiking experience was wonderful.
I went back to hotel at 1:10p.m. and felt some headache. It was because of the delayed syndrome of AMS. It was improved after rest. I went to bus company to change the ticket to Salta. However, there was no seat on 11 Jan. I get back the money at 85% discount and went to Pullman company to buy ticket ($38000) on 11 Jan. These two companies had the same departure time and date. But there prices had significant difference ($38000 & $28000).
The tour bus picked me up at 3:30p.m. to Moon & Dead Valley. The first stop was a look-out for seeing the folded mountain. I thought it was nothing special. The second stop was at dead valley. We walked toward the end of road and walked down along the sand dune. The view was very nice. The last stop was the Moon Valley which was descried as the moon surface. But I thought it was over exaggerated and waited until the sunset. The color turned golden yellow. However, the landscape on the Radicum in Jordan was much more beautiful. I went back to hotel at 9:00p.m. The tour (less than HK$100)was value for money.
Date 68 5 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The tour bus picked me up at 4:10a.m. with the same tour guide who was very hard working as he left me at 9:00p.m. and had to wake up at 3:00a.m. The bus needed to pick-up all passengers and the drive to the geyser was about 1.5 hour & 90km. We did nothing but slept.
Although it was freezing cool (1oC) outside the bus and sat uncomfortably, I slept until the bus stopped. We arrived at the entrance of Geyser Del Tatio at 6:00a.m. The tour guide prepared the passenger list for collecting entrance fee.
We took the early breakfast in the geyser. The tour provided a short explanation after the breakfast and I walked myself later. The geyser was only a few meter high and the colour was pale yellow. I thought it was monotonous and the Yellow Stone Country Part in USA was much better. I took the geyser bath in a primitive pool. The air temperature was about 1oC while water temperature was 37oC. The pool was small and jammed with a lot of people. It was meaningless to take early start (4:00a.m.). It was necessary only if watching sunrise.
We visited Cactus Valley on the way back. There was various shape of cactus and it was large. Some were 2 times higher than me. It was the first time to see such a large number of cacti.
I came back to hotel at 1:00p.m. and had a sleep after lunch. I sent mail at $250/15minutes and had hair cut ($3000) which was short and nice. I prayed that I would came into the Bolivar (US$ 100) tomorrow.
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/San_Pedro#
Date 59 27 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and took MTR from Los Heros to University de Santiago station. It took 10 minutes for travelling 4 stations. The MTR ticket was about $HK 3.8 and valid for the whole route.
The bus came at 7:20a.m. and it was double deck one. The lower deck was cama-class while it was semi-cama in the upper. I had not seen whole cama class bus in Chile. Simple breakfast was served in the bus.
I slept once the bus started. I saw the Pacific Ocean when I waked up an hour later. I was moved by it as I lived in the other side of the Pacific Ocean. The bus drove along the Pan-America Highway which was from Alaska to Ushuaia. The right hand side was semi-desert on the way. I arrived at La Serena at 13:30, Vallenar at 5:00p.m. & Copiapo at 6:50p.m.
Date 60 28 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica
The bus stopped in Antofasgasta at 2:30 a.m. and three people boarded. The bus took a tea stop in Iquique at 8:00a.m. I was still hunger after eating peach. I brought sandwich & coffee ($1,000) outside bus station. The hot meal was excellent. The toilet had machine for collecting fee($200). I arrived at the Arica at 1:00p.m.
The bus station was 1km from city center and I could not find the location of bus station. Therefore, I took a taxi ($1,600) to the Hostal del Sol. Single room cost $9,000 a night with private toilet.
I asked the reception about bus information to Putre. However, she did not understand English. So I took collective taxi ($450) to bus station to ask. Some bus companies said 1:00p.m. or 2:00p.m departure. One people told me to find the company La Paloma. But I could not find it for 30 minutes. I returned to the international terminal to buy ticket ($4000) to Putre. But she said that bus only stopped at the road junction and I needed to walk 4km to Putre. I hoped I did not have mountain sickness.
Date 61 29 Dec 2008 Arica ~ Putre
I went to Jesus Statue on the small hill in the morning. I could see the harbour on the Pacific Ocean. The view was nice. I went to downtown in 21 de Majo street. It was cool on Sunday yesterday. Now it was hot as all shops were opened and it was really a city. The product was targeted at local people and some were for Bolivar and Peru. There were Chinese restaurant and grocery. They also sold instant cup noodle, 豆豉鯪魚和珠江僑牌生油.
I came back to hostel at 10:50a.m. I stored the luggage after checking and sent email. I set off for lunch at 12:00a.m. As dinner was too cheap ($2300) yesterday, I went to a better restaurant for lunch ($4300) that was bread + salad + carne + rice + juice. It was very delicious and full. I collected luggage from hostel at 1:00p.m. and walked(30 minutes) to bus station. I was totally wet as it was hot desert city.
The bus arrived at 2:30 and departed at 2:40 p.m. There were only two passengers in this double deck bus. It seemed that I chartered the bus and was a VIP. The first 20 minutes road was on the plain desert. The bus climbed uphill later and the speed could maintain 70~80km/hr as the road condition was good. I slept for a while and waked up later at 3500m.
The bus dropped me down at the road junction to Putre at 5:20p.m. I needed to walk 5km with my 23kg at 3800m. I hoped to finish within 1.5 hour. But I thought I would get a lift on the way. I met a truck and luckily to have a lift after 20 minutes walk. He dropped me down on the main road after 5 minutes.
I stayed in La Paloma Hostel ($7000) and asked several travel agents in the main street. I was surprised that I was the sole traveller today. Finally, I needed to charter a 2-day tour in "Tour Andino". The manager was sincerely to help me. The price was $120,000, super price. In fact, the price was the same for two people, 50% save! It included a four-wheel drive truck and a driver. The tour would visit Termas Jurasi, Chucuyo, Parinacota, Lago Chungara, Salar de Surire,...
Date 62 30 Dec 2008 Putre ~ Salar de Surire
I went to Tour Andino at 7:00a.m. A young boy opened the office at 7:10a.m. He was the driver as well as guide. We departed at 7:40a.m. under cloudy sky. It climbed to 4200m- pass within half hour. It was snowing and the ground was covered with fresh snow.
The first tourist point was local trap for llama. It was so cool that I needed to wear down jacket. The truck drove into the main road and changed into a small road later. We went into temperate grassland where I saw much more Alpaca, Viscuna & llama. They were wild animals and freedom to go anywhere in this protected area. I also saw some abandoned village. We went back to main road to Village Guallatini. There was a small chapel but no one was there.
I arrived at Salar de Surise at 1:00p.m. It supposed to be large. However, I saw it was not too great. We made registration at the park office. They said that it was closed from today until 5 Jan. How come! It was the only accommodation there and I needed to turn back today. I explained that I came from Hong Kong and requested them to give a special permission. The officer gave us permission after making a radio call. The accommodation was tidy and clean. I and my guide were the only persons tonight and the officer has left for holiday.
We started the tour to salt lake circle, mainly watching flamingoes. It was fascinating to see from far away. They would fly away when I moved closer. I could only take good photos far away. There was many viscuna too. The tour had several stop on the lakeside and back to park office after four hour. The attitude was about 4200m and I was some syndrome of mountain sickness. I had to take a rest before dinner. We could use the kitchen and prepare simple diner. It was complete silent outside.
Date 64 31 Dec 2008 Salar de Surire ~ Putre
I waked up at 7:00a.m. in the new year eve of 2008. We returned on the same road. The sunshine was very strong but it was cloudy in the surrounding mountains. It was temperate grassland along the road and the grass was short and small. The truck turned into a small road after crossing Guallatiri village and took a break near a little geyser.
We wanted to leave after a short break. However, the engine could not be started. We tried to push the truck to start and it was too heavy to move in 4300m. We hopelessly rested after 15 minutes effort. It was luckily that a police petrol car passed by and three police got off the car to offer help. The truck was easily moved by four people and the engine was started immediately.
We continued the winding road over many mountains. Mt. Parinacota was partly seen under the cloudy sky. Surrounding mountains were much more beautiful. I still could not see the Mt. Parinacota in the look-out point. We went to Lagunas Cotacotani after lunch. It consists of many small blue colour lakes. Our truck was hard to ride on the rough road and stop at the end of the road. We walked 15 minutes to another look out point. I needed to put extra effort in climbing a small knoll. The Mt.Parinacota (6350m)and Pomerape(6240m) could be seen in good weather. It was pity that the weather was cloudy. The guide told me that I walked along the lakeside and he went to take the car. I had walked for 20 minutes without meeting him and led astray. Finally, I used my common sense and followed the cycling track to meet my guide again.
We visited Parinacota village later and there was a little church that was nothing special. Las Cuevas was the last place. It was a cave that was home for people in 9500 years ago.
As I could not see the view of Volcano Parinacota, I booked the driver to go again tomorrow if the weather was fine. I stayed in Cali Hostel ($6000) which was better than La Paloma. Although it was cloudy in the last two days, it had not rained. The wild life was rich and the highlight were
Viscuna : fast runner ;
llama : slow walker ;
Alpaca : black and different from Peru and infinite many flamingoes.
Although the number of flamingoes was less than Kenya, I could see them in various places. They were very beautiful when they were flying.
I took dinner in an expansive restaurant which was only one still opening in the eve of 2009. The dinner ($11000) consisted of salad, llama steak and tea. Salad was quite good. The meat of llama was similar to beef.
Date 63 1 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and the weather was fine. I waited the tour guide at 7:30a.m. and he turned up at 8:30a.m. But he said that he would not go. However, there was 6 people would go Parinacota. I could join them and chartered a bus to Arica in the evening. Parinacota trip was ($11000) and $5000 to Arica.
We set off the day tour at 9:30a.m. but the sun was disappeared after 20 minutes. I could see viscuna, llama & alpaca and arrived at the Chungara Lake at 11:30a.m. Although it was sunshine, I still could not see the Volcano Parinacota. I took some picture of flamingoes in the lake. We visited Parinacota village in the afternoon. It was hailstorm when I arrived at the village and everything was white while it was blue yesterday. The summit of Parinacota was seen on the way back. It was like 『一天有四季』.
I came back to Putre at 2:30p.m. and left at 4:30p.m. The van arrived at Arica international bus station at 7:00p.m. I brought the last bus ticket ( Tur bus $16200) to San Pedro de Acatama. Luggage was stored ($1000) in the bus station and walked (30 minutes) to downtown for dinner. Most restaurants were closed on New Year Eve. It was hard to find a local food stall for dinner. I ordered chicken soup set dinner and beef soup set($3400).
I walked back to bus station after dinner. But I was astray in night and had to ask local to find out the right direction to bus station. I arrived at 9:10p.m. and the bus departed at 9:30p.m. It was full and my seat was near the toilet.
Date 65 2 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
I was awaken up in the bus at 3:40a.m. All passengers were required to get off the bus and luggage was checked. I was surprised there existed such a crazy thing that people travelling within their country needed to be checked in mid-night. In fact, the checking was not serious!
I arrived at Calama at 6:40a.m. It was more incredible that the bus had to wait until 8:00a.m. to go to San Pedro. Finally, I arrived at 11:00a.m.
San Petro was an oasis. I walked through the main street which was full of travel agents and restaurants. When I arrived at Hostal Eden Atacama, it was full today. I asked two more hostels and stayed in Hotel Licancabur. A single room cost $8000 with shared bathroom. The room was small with only one lamp. The hotel did provide electric converter so I had to buy one($2000).
I asked several agents to plan the activities in the following days and choose the "Cosmo Andino" agent.
(a) El Tatio Geyser $22500
(b) Altipano Lakes $32500
(c) Tovohill trek (5604m) $50,000
The total price was only $105,000 while ice climbing was pricey $100,000 in Grey Glacier and it was only 2 hours.
I had a lunch ( $4950 )in a decent restaurant. Laundry charge was $2500. I also brought some grape and apple. The price was slight higher than Santiago. However, the internet charge ($500 / half hour )was more expansive. But the speed was very slow and I only send 2 mails in 15 minutes. Ticket to Salta was $28,000.
I searched through San Pedro without finding a cheap restaurant. I brought a BBQ chicken ($2000) as dinner. I took a leisure walk after dinner. There were several agents offering 4-days-trip to Bolivar (US$ 135). However, Hong Kong people required visa to enter the Bolivar. The agent helped me to asked whether I could enter Bolivar tomorrow. Maybe, I needed to pay US100 as corruption fee to enter.
Date 66 3 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The tour bus picked me up at 7:15a.m. and the first stop was Laguna Chaxa which was a salt lake and the entrance fee was $2000. The altitude was 2800m and the main attraction was flamingoes. However, the number of them was less than Parinacota. They were not afraid of human so I could easily take photo. The breakfast was rich and full including coca tea, tea, coffee, bread, cheese,.. and various jam.
The second stop was a little village Camar at altitude 3200m. The main highlight was a chapel which had white-colored wall. The sky was blue with beautiful cloud. The scenery was fascinating. This stop was good for acclimatization.
The bus climbed uphill to 4200m. The land was covered with pale yellow colored grass which was short. The volcanoes were shadowed by cloudless blue sky. I paid $2000 as the entrance fee for the Laguna Miniques & Miscanti. I could see them once I passed through the entrance gate. They were as beautiful as heaven and I arrived at 11:50a.m.
I got off at Laguna Miscanti which was a salt lake with emerald blue colour water. The mountain Miscanti (>5000m) was just beside the lake. I walked from there to Laguna Miniques and took many photos on the way. I was impressed by such a stunning view that I had not seen before. The lunch was offered at the Laguna Miniques and it was the same standard.
We stopped at the town Tocanaco on return journey and was back to hotel at 5:00p.m. I went outside to find a budget restaurant to have dinner after a rest. It was difficult to find a set menu at $5000~6000. I brought a take-away fried chicken ($2000) to eat.
When I was searching the dinner, I came to the "Coloque Tour" agent. It had the 4-days tour ($US125) to Bolivar. However, I needed to entry visa. The tour manager said that some Hong Kong people could enter Bolivar without any problem. The possible entry fee might be US$ 100. Therefore, I booked the tour on 6~9 Jan 2009 which had 4 Germans and me.
I would climb Toco Hill (5604m) tomorrow. I had not hike for more than a week since the Pucon and felt a little bit 頹廢。I was sight-seeing in recent days and saw the traditional tourists instead of trekkers. I hoped it was better tomorrow.
Date 67 4 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The guide picked up at 7:15a.m. Beside me, there were 2 girls and one male. But we did not have too much conservation. The ladies were young and beautiful.
The four-wheel drive truck was new and drove along the road to Bolivar. We turned into small road near the boundary. The truck was winding uphill for another 30 minutes. We arrived the starting point (5200m) at 8:40a.m. I did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness as I took 2 dosages of diamox.
We set off at 8:50a.m. and I thought that it was not difficult as it was only 400m climb. But I was afraid of the altitude. The truck took me from 2400m to 5200m within an hour that I had not tried before.
The path was along gentle slope. There was snow crystal on the ground. I was the slowest one as usual. The guide was so kind as to take care of me from time to time. He told me that we had sufficient time and no need to hurry. I took rest for every 20~30 minutes. I could see the mountain of Bolivar. It was surprising that there was no snow in such a high altitude. It had only yellow colour grassland and gray colour clay. I felt boring in this scenery. The guide led us along the gentle slope. I was surprised that other people were walking so fast and did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness. But I had to take rest from time to time.
I reached the summit (5604m) at 10:40a.m. We celebrated together. They were very excited but I did not have any feeling. Although I reached the highest point since in South America, it was too easy and boring on the way. I recalled climbing the Volcano Lanin(3776m). I needed to wear crampon and ice-axe to climb screed slope, snowy slope to reach the summit( 12 hours ). The hiking experience was wonderful.
I went back to hotel at 1:10p.m. and felt some headache. It was because of the delayed syndrome of AMS. It was improved after rest. I went to bus company to change the ticket to Salta. However, there was no seat on 11 Jan. I get back the money at 85% discount and went to Pullman company to buy ticket ($38000) on 11 Jan. These two companies had the same departure time and date. But there prices had significant difference ($38000 & $28000).
The tour bus picked me up at 3:30p.m. to Moon & Dead Valley. The first stop was a look-out for seeing the folded mountain. I thought it was nothing special. The second stop was at dead valley. We walked toward the end of road and walked down along the sand dune. The view was very nice. The last stop was the Moon Valley which was descried as the moon surface. But I thought it was over exaggerated and waited until the sunset. The color turned golden yellow. However, the landscape on the Radicum in Jordan was much more beautiful. I went back to hotel at 9:00p.m. The tour (less than HK$100)was value for money.
Date 68 5 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama
The tour bus picked me up at 4:10a.m. with the same tour guide who was very hard working as he left me at 9:00p.m. and had to wake up at 3:00a.m. The bus needed to pick-up all passengers and the drive to the geyser was about 1.5 hour & 90km. We did nothing but slept.
Although it was freezing cool (1oC) outside the bus and sat uncomfortably, I slept until the bus stopped. We arrived at the entrance of Geyser Del Tatio at 6:00a.m. The tour guide prepared the passenger list for collecting entrance fee.
We took the early breakfast in the geyser. The tour provided a short explanation after the breakfast and I walked myself later. The geyser was only a few meter high and the colour was pale yellow. I thought it was monotonous and the Yellow Stone Country Part in USA was much better. I took the geyser bath in a primitive pool. The air temperature was about 1oC while water temperature was 37oC. The pool was small and jammed with a lot of people. It was meaningless to take early start (4:00a.m.). It was necessary only if watching sunrise.
We visited Cactus Valley on the way back. There was various shape of cactus and it was large. Some were 2 times higher than me. It was the first time to see such a large number of cacti.
I came back to hotel at 1:00p.m. and had a sleep after lunch. I sent mail at $250/15minutes and had hair cut ($3000) which was short and nice. I prayed that I would came into the Bolivar (US$ 100) tomorrow.
2009年4月14日 星期二
台灣 南湖大山 2009
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/yKsroJ#
台灣 南湖大山 2009
南湖大山標高海拔3740 公尺，是台灣的第八高峰，也是中央山脈北段的最高峰。
今次是我第一次参加"上山下海"的活動，一行20人，大部分是年青和有經驗。
第一天
下午6:30從台北出發，先乘車經雪山隧道往宜蘭的玉蘭村，在茶園民宿休息一晚。
第二天
五時起床，六時開車二小時到思源啞口開始。從海拔1947公尺的思源起步，走兩小時抵達南湖大山的6.7k登山口，我的背包有15kg，所以差不多是行得最慢一個。
再穿越台灣的溫帶森林，沿稜線攀上2792 公尺的多加屯山。之後越過木杆鞍部，約四時到達海拔2602 公尺的雲稜山莊過夜。
下午六時吃豐富晚餐，有肉有菜，可能餓肚，覺得十分可口。睡公共大寢室，這裡比玉山的排雲山莊好。
第三天的行程
五時起床，六時出發，繼續沿稜線登審馬陣山，交叉路口往南湖北山，登南湖北山。
午餐後先是上坡行草原，之後是攀登險峻的五岩峰，危險的地方有鐵欄幫助，就算輕裝也不容易，何況是背付15kg背包，很辛苦才爬得過。
最後急降碎石坡，於三時到達南湖山屋過夜。南湖山屋位置於山谷中央，環境優美。
下午5:00吃晚飯，六時看日落，氣溫只有1oC。晚上很難入睡，差不多全晚沒有睡過。
第四天的行程 主要是登南湖主峰
2:30起床，3:50開始攻頂行程，以一個半小時登上南湖大山主峰，天氣非常好，在山頂玩了一小時。觀賞日出之後，再攀南湖東峰，又在山頂玩了半小時後，沿碎石坡下山於9 時回到南湖山屋，收拾行裝10:00下山。沿登山的原路經南湖北峰下山，5 小時的路程，約下午3 時左右回到雲稜山莊。
第五天
因為大部份隊友要趕回台北，乘晚上的飛機，這天的行程，比較緊張。我們早上5 時起床，6 時出發，經木杆鞍部、加多屯山，11時到勝光登山口，隊友在小鎮礁溪浸過溫泉後(HK$13)，經雪山隧道直駛桃源機場。
只有我一個人在台北YHA住一晚，六人房$170一床位，但當晚只有我一人包房。
第六天
早上9:00到機場坐12:30，由於還可以坐10:40的機，於是提早二小時回港。
今次南湖大山行山真是好玩：
風景很優美：有森林、有草原、有懸崖峭壁。
天氣很好：氣溫不太冷，每一天都是好天氣，特別是攻頂日。
第一次和一班志同道合的行山友旅行，真是好開心。
玩七日只用了$4500。
台灣 南湖大山 2009
南湖大山標高海拔3740 公尺，是台灣的第八高峰，也是中央山脈北段的最高峰。
今次是我第一次参加"上山下海"的活動，一行20人，大部分是年青和有經驗。
第一天
下午6:30從台北出發，先乘車經雪山隧道往宜蘭的玉蘭村，在茶園民宿休息一晚。
第二天
五時起床，六時開車二小時到思源啞口開始。從海拔1947公尺的思源起步，走兩小時抵達南湖大山的6.7k登山口，我的背包有15kg，所以差不多是行得最慢一個。
再穿越台灣的溫帶森林，沿稜線攀上2792 公尺的多加屯山。之後越過木杆鞍部，約四時到達海拔2602 公尺的雲稜山莊過夜。
下午六時吃豐富晚餐，有肉有菜，可能餓肚，覺得十分可口。睡公共大寢室，這裡比玉山的排雲山莊好。
第三天的行程
五時起床，六時出發，繼續沿稜線登審馬陣山，交叉路口往南湖北山，登南湖北山。
午餐後先是上坡行草原，之後是攀登險峻的五岩峰，危險的地方有鐵欄幫助，就算輕裝也不容易，何況是背付15kg背包，很辛苦才爬得過。
最後急降碎石坡，於三時到達南湖山屋過夜。南湖山屋位置於山谷中央，環境優美。
下午5:00吃晚飯，六時看日落，氣溫只有1oC。晚上很難入睡，差不多全晚沒有睡過。
第四天的行程 主要是登南湖主峰
2:30起床，3:50開始攻頂行程，以一個半小時登上南湖大山主峰，天氣非常好，在山頂玩了一小時。觀賞日出之後，再攀南湖東峰，又在山頂玩了半小時後，沿碎石坡下山於9 時回到南湖山屋，收拾行裝10:00下山。沿登山的原路經南湖北峰下山，5 小時的路程，約下午3 時左右回到雲稜山莊。
第五天
因為大部份隊友要趕回台北，乘晚上的飛機，這天的行程，比較緊張。我們早上5 時起床，6 時出發，經木杆鞍部、加多屯山，11時到勝光登山口，隊友在小鎮礁溪浸過溫泉後(HK$13)，經雪山隧道直駛桃源機場。
只有我一個人在台北YHA住一晚，六人房$170一床位，但當晚只有我一人包房。
第六天
早上9:00到機場坐12:30，由於還可以坐10:40的機，於是提早二小時回港。
今次南湖大山行山真是好玩：
風景很優美：有森林、有草原、有懸崖峭壁。
天氣很好：氣溫不太冷，每一天都是好天氣，特別是攻頂日。
第一次和一班志同道合的行山友旅行，真是好開心。
玩七日只用了$4500。
2009年4月1日 星期三
South America Trip D50_D58
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Lanin#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Pucon#
Date 50 18 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
The bus left at 9:00 a.m. to San Martin. It was a small bus only. I took a tea break in Confluencia. There were mountains and lakes on the way. The terrain was varies and it was scenic one. 『山明水秀』 It was quite different from Patagonia. The second stop was Junin de los Andes. I could see the Volcano Lanin on the way.
I arrived at the San Martin at 1:30 p.m. I asked the bus schedule to Pucon (Chile). There was one bus ($75) at 6:00a.m. daily. I walked 15 minutes to Puma YHA. The room was good. I asked the manager about the information of Lanin. She just recommended me to ask the tourist information.
I asked several agents and they did not have departure tomorrow. One agent had departure on 21 Dec. The price was $950 for a two-day trip. Extravagant!
As there was no scheduled activities tomorrow, I went out to walk after dinner at 9:00p.m. I was seldom to have night walk. It was because the tight schedule and tiring body. Normally I slept at 9:30p.m. Some shops still opened at such time. I brought $59 a slipper. I went back at 10:30p.m. and saw a group of people checked in at 11:00p.m. They were local people.
Date 51 19 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
I waked up at 8:00a.m. and had a very good sleep. There was no schedule activity and no need to take bus. The body resumed the energy. I rented a bike from Adventure Store at 9:20a.m. The mountain bike was 18-speed. The price was $30 half-day including helmet, pump, spare tire and lock. The shop manager suggested the 50km circuit.
The first part was uphill along Lacar Lake. It was cloudy without sun. The weather was good and the scenery was fine. I did not cycle for a long time. The slope was not too steep to handle but I had to take more rest for every half hour. I decided to take a shorter route after two hour cycling. It was not the ability to cycling 50km circuit. I wanted to save energy for climbing Volcano Lanin. Downhill was along the gravel. Although it was downhill, I needed to use extra energy to control the speed. Finally, I came back at 12:20a.m.
I went to supermarket at 3:00p.m. I had plenty of time to look various food and goods in it. The beef & steak (HK$ 30/kg )were cheaper than ham & beacon. I brought steak for dinner. The afternoon sleep was very sweat today.
I went to Yuco agent to book the Sunday tour ($950)to Volcano Lanin. I needed to take the public bus to Junin de los Andes at 8:00a.m. The local guide would pick up at Junin de los Andes. I paid 20% as the deposit.
Date 52 20 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
It was a free day today and was raining in the morning. I took boat($38 return ticket) to Quila Quina when the weather was fine at 1:00p.m. The boat ride was half-hour and had 5 passengers only. The voyage was surprising rough in the lake. There was a nice restaurant in the pier.
It was raining when I arrived at the Quila Quina. I went around the campsite and to the waterfall. It was very boring and cool in such weather. I came back to the restaurant to have a cup of tea($8) or to rent a place to rest. It was not easy to wait for the return boat at 4:00p.m.
I brought the bus ticket ($75) to Pucon at 23 Dec and sent email ($2/hr)from the bus station. When I came back to hostel, a Norway people was confirmed to go to Lanin with me tomorrow.
Date 53 21 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes ~ Volcano Lanin
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and prepared breakfast myself. I left hostel at 7:30a.m. and arrived at bus station at 7:50a.m. The bus left at 8:00a.m. and arrived at Junin de los Andes one hour later.
I could not see the local agent when we arrived. The guide arrived 15 minutes later. Besides us, two more Argentina people from Buenos Aires were in the group. The van arrived at the park office of Volcano Lanin at 10:30 a.m. We were allocated with helmet, gaiter, ice-axe & crampon as well as some common food.
We set off at 10:50a.m. The first leg was gentle path through the forest. The second was moraine desert from 11:40 to 12:30 a.m. where I could see the whole picture of Lanin. The third leg was uphill along rocky path and it was not difficult. I took two rests on the way. We met some snow on the path just before the campsite and arrived at Refugio Militar Nuevo at 4:10p.m. I thought it was a hut with bed & kitchen. However, it was a hollow barrel only. We just laid down my sleeping sheet in ground for sleeping. There was two soldiers on-duty.
We went to the glacier for collecting icy water after rest. The guide was responsible for cooking. The Refugio was surround by ice and snow. It was freezing cool at night especially I went to toilet at mid-night as I needed to take outside in the glacier. We slept at about 9:30p.m. and would wake up at 3:00 a.m.
Date 54 22 Dec 2008 Volcano Lanin Summit Ascent
We ( 4 climbers + 1 guide + 2 solders ) slept inside the barrel. The ground was cement inside the barrel. All ,except one, had carried sleeping mat for sleeping. I did not feel cold as I wore down jacket. One said it was freezing cool as he did not have sleeping mat.
I waked up at 2:30 a.m. and awaked up the guide at 2:40 a.m. The guide just prepared some tea, cake & cheese as breakfast. We set off under the twilight stars at 3:50 a.m. I arrived at the water collection place 10 minutes later. We wore the crampon and walked on the icy slope. The surface was hard ice and was easy to walk on it. The guide walked very slow and always zigzag on the way even in a gentle slope. We took a break at 5:20 a.m. on a rocky spur after an hour.
We carried on the slope in the right hand side. Although the slope was 45oC, I just walked slow and was the last one as usual. Another break was at 6:10a.m. One of us, Norway, had been a solder. Although he was more than 50's, his body was very fit and walked fast. Our guide ( Marco ) kept a good pace and always look at me from time to time. He was very professional and also had been a guide in Aconcagua Trek.
We put off crampon and followed the spur uphill. The path passed through loose rocky spur and snow on the way. It was really tough and demanding. It requested your every once of energy. The sun rose at 6:30a.m. and the sky was golden colour shinning on the crystal white snow. There was a giant snowy slope in the front and twilight stars on the sky. This stunning view was impressive.
We arrived at a platform to take a break at 10:00a.m. The top seemed that it was very close. We carried on a very steep spur. I was so tired to take a break after 15 minutes. The following snowy slope was much steeper. It was easy on zigzag pace. We met another group of trekkers returning at 12:00a.m.
The guide said that the most demanding was finished. The last part was gentle snowy slope. The ice crystal had various shape. It similar to the surface of moon. The strong wind blew up snow surface similar to the sand on the beach.
I was still struggle in walking, resting, walking, resting,... The higher I climbed, the more windy & the more harder snow. Marco waited me just before the top. I waved up both poles and passed through him to achieved the summit at 1:00p.m.
Others were taking photos. 360o view was in my sight. One side was Argentina & the other was Chile. I could also see Volcano Villarrica. The ice crystal was much more beautiful and extremely pure. I walked 7 hours from base camp and climbed 2330m to 3776m. I needed to climb 2 great snowy slopes and 3 steep spurs.
I almost drank all 2 litre of water and felt dehydrated. It was not fast downhill as the trail was very tough. I only saved the rest time. We retreated along the same path. It was very difficult to go down along the spur. I just crawled down step by step and I cramped down many times in order to finish on spur.
The next part was snowy slope. No need to use crampon as the snow was soft now. But it was much more difficult to walk and used up extra energy to complete it. It was difficult to finish to descend 600m at 2:00p.m. using 3 hours. I needed to descend 600m more to return to refugio. I did not know when I could finish.
When we reached another snowy slope, Marco taught me to ski/ slide down and used the ice axe to control the speed. I was nervous at the beginning and could handle it quickly. It was very funny and I tried to make it slide faster. Most people were also sliding down. It was easy and fast to finish a slope and walked to other side and slide down again. We arrived at the water collection point again after 30 minutes. I drank some water and refill the water bottle. Finally, we came back to base camp at 3:00p.m. using 4 hours.
We took a rest and had a tea & food. We descended at 4:00p.m. and arrived at trailhead at 6:30p.m. The van pick up half hour later and brought ice-coke and food for us. I was back to Junin de los Andes at 8:30p.m. The bus departed to San Martin at 10:00 p.m. so I had dinner at Junin. I went back to Puma Hostel at 11:00 p.m. and still needed to pack up luggage. Finally, I slept at 12:30p.m. and would waked up early to catch 6:00a.m morning bus.
I had walked 14 hours today. ( 7 + 4 + 3 hours ) and only slept for 4 hours.
Uphill 1440m and down hill 2500m. Totally Exhausted!!
Date 55 23 Dec 2008 Pucon
I waked up at 5:00a.m. The breakfast was 2 breads and a cup of tea. I walked to the bus station and got on bus at 6:00a.m. I slept once I sit as I had only slept 4 hours for consecutive 2 days. The first stop was Junin again. I was awaked up as I sit the wrong seat. I slept again once the bus start and waked up again when the bus was near volcano Lanin. Most passengers took photos and said it was so beautiful. But they did not know that I was in the summit 24 hours ago.
I cleared the Argentina Immigration(40 min.) at 8:30a.m. and was followed by Chile Immigration at 10:00a.m. All luggages were scanned one by one by x-ray. No fresh vegetable and meat were allowed to carry into Chile. However, I had forgotten to take out the cucumber from my pack. They found it out and I was treated as prisoner. They confiscated my passport and sent me to see their supervisor. I explained the reason but he did not accept it. I was fined $US 200. They prepared several documents for me to sign. The process took about an hour. The bus waited for me. All clapped hands when I got on the bus an hour later. I felt very sorry for their patient.
The bus drove along the gravel road for another hour to a small town. It was much faster when the road turned into paved one. I arrived at Pucon at 1:00 p.m. and walked 10 minutes to the Ecole Hostel. One bed cost $10,000 (HK$ 130) excluding breakfast. My bed was in a 3-bed room at 2/F. It was nice to have a balcony outside. I could relax and write diary. Ground floor was a nice restaurant.
I asked information in the reception and went out for lunch. A set lunch (Chicken rice + salad + tea) cost $ 3300. It was half price as in Argentina. O'Higgins street had many tour agents. I decided to go rafting in Upper Trancurna River (Class IV, $28,000). I would also climb Villarrica ($40,000) on 25 Dec.
I came back to hostel at 4:00p.m. and took clothes to laundry ($3500). I had a sleep for 1.5 hour and sent email later. I had dinner in a decent restaurant. The set menu (bread + soup + steak + rice + tea) cost $3500 only. It was excellent quality and unbeatable price.
I asked the Pullman bus company about the schedule to Santiago. It departed at 21:00 and would arrive at 7:00 a.m. I would buy it on 25 Dec or stayed one more day there.
Date 56 24 Dec 2008 Pucon
I came to the rafting company at 10:00a.m. However, two clients did not turn up and they said that we could not set off. I was asked to wait for more clients as the minimum number was 4. It was luckily that 2 more local people joined and we set off at 10:30a.m. We arrived at the starting point after 40 minutes drive.
I jumped into water at 11:30a.m. The water was cooler than Bariloche. We were taught some basic skill and order in the beginning. They included "Forward, backward, highside left, highside right, position, fast forward...".
One camera girl took pictures at some scenic point. The rapid was one by one. One giant rapid was very dangerous. We were required to take off and walked on land to pass over it. We came to a cliff and jumped into the river one by one. It was the first time for me to jump and swam into the boat again. The rafting finished after an hour.
I had rafted two times in S.A. trip. The rafting was class IV today. But I found it was not very difficult. I brought the rafting photos($5000) and came back to hostel at 1:40 p.m. I booked the tour to Villarrica Ascent ($40,000) tomorrow after a rest. They provided all equipment (rucksack, ice axe, boots, jacket, mitten, plaster).
Date 57 25 Dec 2008 Pucon
I arrived at the tour company "Aguaventura" office at 7:00a.m. and departed at 7:30 a.m. The tour had 16 persons and carried by two vans. The van arrived at the trailhead at 8:10a.m. and we set off at 8:30a.m.
The starting point was the ski resort tram station which did not open. The first leg was soft rocky trail and was not difficult to walk. We took a break at the tram upper station after an hour. My zipper in the top of my backpack was opened and my Swiss army knife was lost. I did not know when it dropped. The knife was brought in Switzerland and accompanied me for 20 years.
It was bad luck in Chile:
(a) Lost towel in Torre del Paine
(b) Find $US 200
(c) Hurt fingers in rafting Pucon
(d) Lost swiss army knife
I walked on snowy slope later. The snow was soft and I needed not wear crampon. It was not difficult to follow the footprint of guide. They always walked in zigzag in any slope. We were separated into faster and slower groups. I was belongs to the fast group. We climbed the slope one by one and took break every 40 minutes. They started to walk once I arrived at the resting place.
I arrived at so called summit at 1:20p.m. 5 hours from start. In fact, I was not the summit and thought that it was 40~50m below the summit (2847m). It was because toxin gas was emitting from the volcano so we were not allowed to go. I took many photos and changed special equipment: Tough trouser, sweater, mitten, helmet & plaster skate.
I liked an alien! The equipment was required for sliding.
The guide taught us some basic skill and I followed to slide. Some slope was so steep that I needed to use ice axe to decrease and stop. Sometimes, I used the plaster skate to increase the speed. All my body was filled with snow and it was very funny and interesting. I took 1.5 hour to slide down.
I went back to Pucon hostel at 3:30p.m. and brought 9:00p.m. Pullman bus ($18,000) to Santiago. Dinner was taken in Ecole Hostel. I walked to the bus station and the bus was a new one. Cama-class was extremely comfortable. The bus departed sharply at 9:00p.m.
Date 58 26 Dec 2008 Santiago
I had a very good sleep in last night and arrived at 7:00a.m. The bus station was very large. I made a call to YHA to make the reservation and walked for 30 minutes. The main road was wide and the local city bus was new & modern. However, the street had many rubbish and a lot of graffiti in walls.
I came back to bus station after check-in and rest. The bus to Arica (Tus-bus $47,000) departed at 7:40a.m. tomorrow. I took a MTR($400) to downtown. The main square was surrounded by parliament and government house. It was similar to other capitals. Lunch was mussel soap rice($2500) and the taste was no good.
The hostel was modern and had spacious common area. I stayed in a 6-bed ($10,000) room and each had one locker in the room. 5 computers were free to use but the speed was very slow. The reading room was large and had a good collection of books.
All toilets had to charge ($200~$500) even in restaurants in Chile. I had not seen any beautiful ladies for the past 10 days. They were short and black in colour. The Argentina girls were much more beautiful.
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Pucon#
Date 50 18 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
The bus left at 9:00 a.m. to San Martin. It was a small bus only. I took a tea break in Confluencia. There were mountains and lakes on the way. The terrain was varies and it was scenic one. 『山明水秀』 It was quite different from Patagonia. The second stop was Junin de los Andes. I could see the Volcano Lanin on the way.
I arrived at the San Martin at 1:30 p.m. I asked the bus schedule to Pucon (Chile). There was one bus ($75) at 6:00a.m. daily. I walked 15 minutes to Puma YHA. The room was good. I asked the manager about the information of Lanin. She just recommended me to ask the tourist information.
I asked several agents and they did not have departure tomorrow. One agent had departure on 21 Dec. The price was $950 for a two-day trip. Extravagant!
As there was no scheduled activities tomorrow, I went out to walk after dinner at 9:00p.m. I was seldom to have night walk. It was because the tight schedule and tiring body. Normally I slept at 9:30p.m. Some shops still opened at such time. I brought $59 a slipper. I went back at 10:30p.m. and saw a group of people checked in at 11:00p.m. They were local people.
Date 51 19 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
I waked up at 8:00a.m. and had a very good sleep. There was no schedule activity and no need to take bus. The body resumed the energy. I rented a bike from Adventure Store at 9:20a.m. The mountain bike was 18-speed. The price was $30 half-day including helmet, pump, spare tire and lock. The shop manager suggested the 50km circuit.
The first part was uphill along Lacar Lake. It was cloudy without sun. The weather was good and the scenery was fine. I did not cycle for a long time. The slope was not too steep to handle but I had to take more rest for every half hour. I decided to take a shorter route after two hour cycling. It was not the ability to cycling 50km circuit. I wanted to save energy for climbing Volcano Lanin. Downhill was along the gravel. Although it was downhill, I needed to use extra energy to control the speed. Finally, I came back at 12:20a.m.
I went to supermarket at 3:00p.m. I had plenty of time to look various food and goods in it. The beef & steak (HK$ 30/kg )were cheaper than ham & beacon. I brought steak for dinner. The afternoon sleep was very sweat today.
I went to Yuco agent to book the Sunday tour ($950)to Volcano Lanin. I needed to take the public bus to Junin de los Andes at 8:00a.m. The local guide would pick up at Junin de los Andes. I paid 20% as the deposit.
Date 52 20 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes
It was a free day today and was raining in the morning. I took boat($38 return ticket) to Quila Quina when the weather was fine at 1:00p.m. The boat ride was half-hour and had 5 passengers only. The voyage was surprising rough in the lake. There was a nice restaurant in the pier.
It was raining when I arrived at the Quila Quina. I went around the campsite and to the waterfall. It was very boring and cool in such weather. I came back to the restaurant to have a cup of tea($8) or to rent a place to rest. It was not easy to wait for the return boat at 4:00p.m.
I brought the bus ticket ($75) to Pucon at 23 Dec and sent email ($2/hr)from the bus station. When I came back to hostel, a Norway people was confirmed to go to Lanin with me tomorrow.
Date 53 21 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes ~ Volcano Lanin
I waked up at 6:30a.m. and prepared breakfast myself. I left hostel at 7:30a.m. and arrived at bus station at 7:50a.m. The bus left at 8:00a.m. and arrived at Junin de los Andes one hour later.
I could not see the local agent when we arrived. The guide arrived 15 minutes later. Besides us, two more Argentina people from Buenos Aires were in the group. The van arrived at the park office of Volcano Lanin at 10:30 a.m. We were allocated with helmet, gaiter, ice-axe & crampon as well as some common food.
We set off at 10:50a.m. The first leg was gentle path through the forest. The second was moraine desert from 11:40 to 12:30 a.m. where I could see the whole picture of Lanin. The third leg was uphill along rocky path and it was not difficult. I took two rests on the way. We met some snow on the path just before the campsite and arrived at Refugio Militar Nuevo at 4:10p.m. I thought it was a hut with bed & kitchen. However, it was a hollow barrel only. We just laid down my sleeping sheet in ground for sleeping. There was two soldiers on-duty.
We went to the glacier for collecting icy water after rest. The guide was responsible for cooking. The Refugio was surround by ice and snow. It was freezing cool at night especially I went to toilet at mid-night as I needed to take outside in the glacier. We slept at about 9:30p.m. and would wake up at 3:00 a.m.
Date 54 22 Dec 2008 Volcano Lanin Summit Ascent
We ( 4 climbers + 1 guide + 2 solders ) slept inside the barrel. The ground was cement inside the barrel. All ,except one, had carried sleeping mat for sleeping. I did not feel cold as I wore down jacket. One said it was freezing cool as he did not have sleeping mat.
I waked up at 2:30 a.m. and awaked up the guide at 2:40 a.m. The guide just prepared some tea, cake & cheese as breakfast. We set off under the twilight stars at 3:50 a.m. I arrived at the water collection place 10 minutes later. We wore the crampon and walked on the icy slope. The surface was hard ice and was easy to walk on it. The guide walked very slow and always zigzag on the way even in a gentle slope. We took a break at 5:20 a.m. on a rocky spur after an hour.
We carried on the slope in the right hand side. Although the slope was 45oC, I just walked slow and was the last one as usual. Another break was at 6:10a.m. One of us, Norway, had been a solder. Although he was more than 50's, his body was very fit and walked fast. Our guide ( Marco ) kept a good pace and always look at me from time to time. He was very professional and also had been a guide in Aconcagua Trek.
We put off crampon and followed the spur uphill. The path passed through loose rocky spur and snow on the way. It was really tough and demanding. It requested your every once of energy. The sun rose at 6:30a.m. and the sky was golden colour shinning on the crystal white snow. There was a giant snowy slope in the front and twilight stars on the sky. This stunning view was impressive.
We arrived at a platform to take a break at 10:00a.m. The top seemed that it was very close. We carried on a very steep spur. I was so tired to take a break after 15 minutes. The following snowy slope was much steeper. It was easy on zigzag pace. We met another group of trekkers returning at 12:00a.m.
The guide said that the most demanding was finished. The last part was gentle snowy slope. The ice crystal had various shape. It similar to the surface of moon. The strong wind blew up snow surface similar to the sand on the beach.
I was still struggle in walking, resting, walking, resting,... The higher I climbed, the more windy & the more harder snow. Marco waited me just before the top. I waved up both poles and passed through him to achieved the summit at 1:00p.m.
Others were taking photos. 360o view was in my sight. One side was Argentina & the other was Chile. I could also see Volcano Villarrica. The ice crystal was much more beautiful and extremely pure. I walked 7 hours from base camp and climbed 2330m to 3776m. I needed to climb 2 great snowy slopes and 3 steep spurs.
I almost drank all 2 litre of water and felt dehydrated. It was not fast downhill as the trail was very tough. I only saved the rest time. We retreated along the same path. It was very difficult to go down along the spur. I just crawled down step by step and I cramped down many times in order to finish on spur.
The next part was snowy slope. No need to use crampon as the snow was soft now. But it was much more difficult to walk and used up extra energy to complete it. It was difficult to finish to descend 600m at 2:00p.m. using 3 hours. I needed to descend 600m more to return to refugio. I did not know when I could finish.
When we reached another snowy slope, Marco taught me to ski/ slide down and used the ice axe to control the speed. I was nervous at the beginning and could handle it quickly. It was very funny and I tried to make it slide faster. Most people were also sliding down. It was easy and fast to finish a slope and walked to other side and slide down again. We arrived at the water collection point again after 30 minutes. I drank some water and refill the water bottle. Finally, we came back to base camp at 3:00p.m. using 4 hours.
We took a rest and had a tea & food. We descended at 4:00p.m. and arrived at trailhead at 6:30p.m. The van pick up half hour later and brought ice-coke and food for us. I was back to Junin de los Andes at 8:30p.m. The bus departed to San Martin at 10:00 p.m. so I had dinner at Junin. I went back to Puma Hostel at 11:00 p.m. and still needed to pack up luggage. Finally, I slept at 12:30p.m. and would waked up early to catch 6:00a.m morning bus.
I had walked 14 hours today. ( 7 + 4 + 3 hours ) and only slept for 4 hours.
Uphill 1440m and down hill 2500m. Totally Exhausted!!
Date 55 23 Dec 2008 Pucon
I waked up at 5:00a.m. The breakfast was 2 breads and a cup of tea. I walked to the bus station and got on bus at 6:00a.m. I slept once I sit as I had only slept 4 hours for consecutive 2 days. The first stop was Junin again. I was awaked up as I sit the wrong seat. I slept again once the bus start and waked up again when the bus was near volcano Lanin. Most passengers took photos and said it was so beautiful. But they did not know that I was in the summit 24 hours ago.
I cleared the Argentina Immigration(40 min.) at 8:30a.m. and was followed by Chile Immigration at 10:00a.m. All luggages were scanned one by one by x-ray. No fresh vegetable and meat were allowed to carry into Chile. However, I had forgotten to take out the cucumber from my pack. They found it out and I was treated as prisoner. They confiscated my passport and sent me to see their supervisor. I explained the reason but he did not accept it. I was fined $US 200. They prepared several documents for me to sign. The process took about an hour. The bus waited for me. All clapped hands when I got on the bus an hour later. I felt very sorry for their patient.
The bus drove along the gravel road for another hour to a small town. It was much faster when the road turned into paved one. I arrived at Pucon at 1:00 p.m. and walked 10 minutes to the Ecole Hostel. One bed cost $10,000 (HK$ 130) excluding breakfast. My bed was in a 3-bed room at 2/F. It was nice to have a balcony outside. I could relax and write diary. Ground floor was a nice restaurant.
I asked information in the reception and went out for lunch. A set lunch (Chicken rice + salad + tea) cost $ 3300. It was half price as in Argentina. O'Higgins street had many tour agents. I decided to go rafting in Upper Trancurna River (Class IV, $28,000). I would also climb Villarrica ($40,000) on 25 Dec.
I came back to hostel at 4:00p.m. and took clothes to laundry ($3500). I had a sleep for 1.5 hour and sent email later. I had dinner in a decent restaurant. The set menu (bread + soup + steak + rice + tea) cost $3500 only. It was excellent quality and unbeatable price.
I asked the Pullman bus company about the schedule to Santiago. It departed at 21:00 and would arrive at 7:00 a.m. I would buy it on 25 Dec or stayed one more day there.
Date 56 24 Dec 2008 Pucon
I came to the rafting company at 10:00a.m. However, two clients did not turn up and they said that we could not set off. I was asked to wait for more clients as the minimum number was 4. It was luckily that 2 more local people joined and we set off at 10:30a.m. We arrived at the starting point after 40 minutes drive.
I jumped into water at 11:30a.m. The water was cooler than Bariloche. We were taught some basic skill and order in the beginning. They included "Forward, backward, highside left, highside right, position, fast forward...".
One camera girl took pictures at some scenic point. The rapid was one by one. One giant rapid was very dangerous. We were required to take off and walked on land to pass over it. We came to a cliff and jumped into the river one by one. It was the first time for me to jump and swam into the boat again. The rafting finished after an hour.
I had rafted two times in S.A. trip. The rafting was class IV today. But I found it was not very difficult. I brought the rafting photos($5000) and came back to hostel at 1:40 p.m. I booked the tour to Villarrica Ascent ($40,000) tomorrow after a rest. They provided all equipment (rucksack, ice axe, boots, jacket, mitten, plaster).
Date 57 25 Dec 2008 Pucon
I arrived at the tour company "Aguaventura" office at 7:00a.m. and departed at 7:30 a.m. The tour had 16 persons and carried by two vans. The van arrived at the trailhead at 8:10a.m. and we set off at 8:30a.m.
The starting point was the ski resort tram station which did not open. The first leg was soft rocky trail and was not difficult to walk. We took a break at the tram upper station after an hour. My zipper in the top of my backpack was opened and my Swiss army knife was lost. I did not know when it dropped. The knife was brought in Switzerland and accompanied me for 20 years.
It was bad luck in Chile:
(a) Lost towel in Torre del Paine
(b) Find $US 200
(c) Hurt fingers in rafting Pucon
(d) Lost swiss army knife
I walked on snowy slope later. The snow was soft and I needed not wear crampon. It was not difficult to follow the footprint of guide. They always walked in zigzag in any slope. We were separated into faster and slower groups. I was belongs to the fast group. We climbed the slope one by one and took break every 40 minutes. They started to walk once I arrived at the resting place.
I arrived at so called summit at 1:20p.m. 5 hours from start. In fact, I was not the summit and thought that it was 40~50m below the summit (2847m). It was because toxin gas was emitting from the volcano so we were not allowed to go. I took many photos and changed special equipment: Tough trouser, sweater, mitten, helmet & plaster skate.
I liked an alien! The equipment was required for sliding.
The guide taught us some basic skill and I followed to slide. Some slope was so steep that I needed to use ice axe to decrease and stop. Sometimes, I used the plaster skate to increase the speed. All my body was filled with snow and it was very funny and interesting. I took 1.5 hour to slide down.
I went back to Pucon hostel at 3:30p.m. and brought 9:00p.m. Pullman bus ($18,000) to Santiago. Dinner was taken in Ecole Hostel. I walked to the bus station and the bus was a new one. Cama-class was extremely comfortable. The bus departed sharply at 9:00p.m.
Date 58 26 Dec 2008 Santiago
I had a very good sleep in last night and arrived at 7:00a.m. The bus station was very large. I made a call to YHA to make the reservation and walked for 30 minutes. The main road was wide and the local city bus was new & modern. However, the street had many rubbish and a lot of graffiti in walls.
I came back to bus station after check-in and rest. The bus to Arica (Tus-bus $47,000) departed at 7:40a.m. tomorrow. I took a MTR($400) to downtown. The main square was surrounded by parliament and government house. It was similar to other capitals. Lunch was mussel soap rice($2500) and the taste was no good.
The hostel was modern and had spacious common area. I stayed in a 6-bed ($10,000) room and each had one locker in the room. 5 computers were free to use but the speed was very slow. The reading room was large and had a good collection of books.
All toilets had to charge ($200~$500) even in restaurants in Chile. I had not seen any beautiful ladies for the past 10 days. They were short and black in colour. The Argentina girls were much more beautiful.
2009年3月29日 星期日
South America Trip D41~49
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Bariloche#
Date 41 9 Dec 2008 El Chalten
Patagonia Adventura picked me up at 8:10a.m. The bus went to pier and took picture en route. The sky had nothing but blue colour. The Torre & Fitz Roy were clearly seen. I arrived at the pier at 9:45a.m. The boat was modern, comfortable and deluxe.
The cruise was about 40 minutes. I appreciated the wonderful view of Glacier Viedma. My boat was the only one there and was tranquil in such a beautiful Viedma Lake. Although Glacier Viedma was less famous than Perito Moreno Glacier, I could see the whole glacier now. It seemed that it belonged to me only.
I landed at 11:00 a.m. and walked on rocky surface for 30 minutes. I changed the crampon and walked on the glacier. It was not difficult for me as it was not the first time. The ice-trek used crampon without ice axe and helmet.
We walked along a gentle slope without difficulty. When I came close to crevasse, I was advised to stop. I had reached the highest point after 30 minutes and advised to turn back. It was too short and I felt being cheated as I had walked 7 days on the glacier in Pakistan.
The guide got some fresh ice and champagne for us to taste. They felt excited. I thought they were native. I went back to shore at 2:00 p.m. and waited until 3:00p.m to return.
Date 42 10 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I ate simple bread as breakfast and left 7:45a.m. The walking distance was 25km and I estimated that I needed to walk for 10 hours.
I arrived at the trailhead at 8:00a.m. The first part was gentle uphill and went under forest. The trail was well-maintained and the view was clear after 30 minutes. I could see panoramic view of El Chalten town. I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:30 a.m. I could see the first view of Ritz Roy, Poincenot & Co-Torre that were higher than 3000m. Two trekkers overtook me at this point. I walked downhill to grassland and along the riverbank.
The sky had nothing but emerald blue. Ritz Roy was in the front ahead. I walked toward the destination step by step. I met some campers who returned and I arrived at Poincenot Campsite at 11:00 a.m. My target was to Laguna De Los Tres by 12:30 a.m.
I passed over the Rio Blanco and saw Camp Rio Blanco. The trail was along scree slope. There was signage on the way and it was easy to follow. I was so tired as I had already walked for 5 hours. The tip of Ritz Roy was appeared at 12:00a.m. and it rose above slowly in my eye.
After climbing scree slope, it was terminal moraine that was not new for me. When I climbed over the moraine, the Laguna De Los Tres came into my eye. The lake was frozen with emerald blue water. It was like a sapphire! The tarn & and moraine were usually gray colour with scatter icebergs. Now it was frozen completely and was the most beautiful one ever seen. Although the lake was small, it was right in front of the Ritz Roy whose image was reflected in the surface. The scenery was stunning.
I took lunch (Tomato & bread) at the lakeshore and climbed up to terminal moraine later. The view was much better on the top and returned at 1:45 p.m. It was rest day tomorrow and I walked slowing. I arrived at 6:00p.m. after 10 hours' walk. I took dinner($35) menu lamb. It was delicious. The tour of El Chalten was finished.
Date 43 11 Dec 2008 El Chalten ~ Bariloche
I would take the bus "Marga" to Bariloche (36hr). The trip to Patagonia was end. The first time I saw it was the brand "Patagonia" which was an expansive sports wear brand in Hong Kong. Moreover, I had also seen the scenery of Patagonia from the documentary in National Geography Channel. My brain was embedded in enormous picture of it. Now, I came to there to see. The dream came true!
Patagonia was the southern part of South America(Argentina and Chile). I had visited the eastern part, Peninsula Valdes. I was amazed to see unexpected 10 giant Southern Right whale in a single cruise. Elephant seals and Orca were also seen there. The temperate grassland was great from Puerto Madryn to Ushuaia. The same grassland feature could last for 1000km. Ushuaia was the most southern city of Argentina and it was also the end of road from Alaska. The bus ferry crossing Strait of Magellan was leant in school time and it was very meaningful to see it 30 years later.
5 days-trek-Torres del Paine was the highlight of Patagonia. I thought only a few Hong Kong people could manage it. It was not the reason of strength, but the time constraint and the information required. The most memorable day was that I walked for 14 hours with my 18kg load. I needed to use your own strength to climb in order to see the Torres!
El Calafate was just a traditional tourist city. Moreno Glacier was famous and it might be more tourists visiting it. I thought Viedma Glacier was more beautiful.
The 4-days trip in El Chalten was the last stop in Patagonia. The Ritz Roy was equally attractive as the Torres Del Paine & the Yosemite Half-dome. I needed to walk 10 hours to see it.
The bus left El Chalten at 23:00p.m. and it was a classical one. I prepared some food to eat it the bus and it was full.
Date 44 12 Dec 2008 On the bus to Bariloche
All day was in the bus. It was uncomfortable as it was hot and stuffy. It was boring and tiring. The bus passed through Rio Mayo, Esquel and El Bolson. I took tea stop on the way.
Date 45 13 Dec 2008 Bariloche
I arrived at Bariloche at 8:40 a.m. after 32 hours bus-ride. The bus station was not in downtown. I went to Tourist Information to get some maps. However, there was no one on duty. I went to the local bus station to take route no. 20 ($1.7). I walked 10 minutes to Perikos Hostel after taking off in town centre. The bed cost $40 including breakfast. The room was spacious and the bathroom was very modern.
I decided to join rafting by "Patagonia Rafting" ($280) after consulting hostel manager. Moreover, the Club Andino advised me to a 3-days trek to Cerro Catedral & Tres Reyes. They said that there was no need to make reservation.
As the hostel was vacant in the afternoon, I uploaded some photos into my facebook. The speed was extremely slow. It took 2 hours to upload 7 photos!
Date 46 14 Dec 2008 Bariloche
The hostel room was mixed sex in Argentina and I was the king and slept with three queens. One girl was dream lady. Foreign girl was normally young and more than 40% was beautiful. Hong Kong travellers were more mature and they had intrinsic beauty only. If they were beautiful, they would not go there. I slept very well and waked-up at 7:00a.m. Although the breakfast was simple bread only, the drink was unlimited. I was required to clean the dish myself after use.
Patagonia Rafting picked up at 9:30a.m. with three more ladies from the same hostel. One was very beautiful. The van speed was 80~90 km/hr in the highway and 50km/hr in gravel road. The scenery was fascinating on the way. However, the van did not have photo stop.
We arrived at the base camp at 12:00a.m. It was an open grassland near the river bank and was surrounded by mountains. We changed the rafting equipment after brunch. 15-minutes drive was needed to the starting point.
I was taught some rafting safety and technique on land. In fact, I learnt it before. This river was class III. We had 11 people and were divided into two boats. I was in the advanced one.
The flow of the first 15 minutes was slow and the water temperature was about 15oC. It was very comfortable under warm some sunlight. The rapid was not great and I had no difficulty in it. 4 people were dropped off in a great rapid. Two (including me) were safely stayed in the boat. We swam into the water in the middle section. It was the first time and very funny. The rafting ended after 2 hours when we arrived at the Chile border.
The van drove us back to camp site at 3:00p.m. We took a BBQ lunch and I ate a lot of meat. I left campsite at 5:00 p.m. and back to hostel at 6:50p.m. $280 was value for money.
The rafting river name : Manso River (Class III)
Length : 12km, 2hr
Distance from Bariloche : 118km, 2 hr
Date 47 15 Dec 2008 Refugio Frey
I stored up some luggage in Hostel in the morning and left at 8:40a.m. I arrived at the bus station at 9:00a.m in order to catch the bus at 9:15a.m. However, the schedule had changed into 10:10a.m. Anyway, I got on bus at 10:10 and arrived at the Catedral bus terminal at 10:40a.m. Catedral was a sky resort in winter but it was cool now.
The first part of the trail was gentle slope and passed through forest. When I went to the back side of the mountain, I walked along river Van Titter. This part was not difficult to walk. I came to Piedritas Camp after crossing a river junction. The path was rocky and steeper in the following. I could see some snow in opposite mountain slope. I arrived at the Refugio Frey at 4:10 p.m. It was only 5 hours and not too bad. The refugio was primitive and dirty. One bed cost $30, $25 for a dinner & $18 for a breakfast.
There was some snow outside the refugio and snow line was about 1700m. The map showed that I needed to climb two steep passes tomorrow. I was surprised that it was so demanding.
The refugio was very small and only a few people stayed tonight. Local people were mainly camped outside. Dinner was spaghetti only while others prepared their food themselves. Pizza was only $35. It was free in entering this park as well as camping. However, the living condition was primitive and no shower facility. I strolled along the lakeside after dinner. It was covered by deep snow.
Date 48 16 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I waked up at 6:20 a.m. and took breakfast at 7:15a.m. The breakfast ($18) was chocolate+3 breads. The weather was excellent. The sky was emerald blue and I could see the mirror image of snow-capped mountain in the water surface of lake.
I left at 8:00a.m. and walked along the Laguna Tonchek. It seemed that it was very small but it took half an hour. Catedral mountain was closer and closer. It was similar to cathedral and the sharp hill attracted many climbers from the world. The blue sky was scattered with cirrus cloud.
I hiked uphill after passing the lake. More snow was formed on this slope. I could see Laguna Schmool at 9:10 a.m. It was a very small lake and part of the surface was frozen. Moreover, it was surrounded by snowy slope. I was surprised to see this amazing scenery. I was the only person there and it was completely silent. All I could hear was my breathing. I hopped over boulders and went to various positions to take photos. I could also look back to the Refugio Frey.
Although it was a heaven, I had to carry on along the snowy slope. The slope was steep and slippery. I was required to put extra attention to every step. If I slide down to the lake, no one would help me. More rocky and steep were near the top. I needed to climb in last part in order to reach the top at 10:00a.m.
I took a rest on the top to appreciate the surrounding area. There was various shapes of rocks. I could see a small glacier when I crossed the pass. There was a path junction that one was back to Catedral and the other was San Martin Refugio.
The downhill road was a very steep scree slope. Some part was about 80 degree. I could not walk and just slide down. It was very difficult to slide down the plain (1 hours) at 11:00 a.m. I took the early lunch on a boulder. The following part was easy route under the forest. I washed my leg and took a shower in the stream. The water temperature was so cool that I sank into water for 20 second only each time. It was because there was no shower facility in the refugio.
I hiked uphill again after an hour in the plain. The slope changed from gentle, steep to snowy & rocky. The last part was almost vertical and I needed to use every once of energy to overcome it. It took me 2 hours from the plain (1430m) to the pass (1870m). The pass had some snow only. I was the solo person there. I would see the 360 degree mountains neighbors. It seemed that they were belonged to me only! I could see the San Martin Refugio at the lakeside.
The downhill was the same in the morning. It was steep scree slope and took me an hour. Another 15 minutes was required to arrive San Martin. I arrived at 4:15p.m., 8 hours after the start. I was the first one to stay there. The refugio was better than Refugio Frey. One bed cost $30 and $45 for set dinner. More trekkers were coming in the evening.
Date 49 17 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I left the refugio at 6:00 a.m. and wanted to finish by 11:00 a.m. The first part was steep rocky path. The pace was slow. I wore all the clothes as it was about 0oC in the early morning. I wore only one after half hour. I took a rest after an hour. I increased my pace when the path became gentle. My watch showed the temperature was only 8oC and snow was formed in the plant. However, I did not feel cold.
I crossed the mid-way bridge 3 hour after start at 9:00 a.m. The latter part was along the riverside and there was no good view. The trail was boring up and down. Finally, I finished the track at 11:30 a.m.
I realized that the road was gravel when I came to the trailhead. There was no public transport and the closest one was 6km away. I needed to walk as I did not see any people and car. The sun appeared in an unsuitable time. The road was hard and dusty. The weather was hot in such a road without shadow. I did not see any car within next half hour. I was so tired to take a rest near a bridge.
All of a sudden, a truck stopped beside me and they generously offer a lift. They could speak simple English and dropped me in the bus station. I took bus no.20 to the Bariloche bus terminal.
I brought the ticket ($37) to Sam Martin de los Andes at the bus station. I went back to Perikos' Hostel at 2:00p.m. I took a good sleep after shower. Dinner ($40) was taken at a Chinese restaurant and it was not good.
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Bariloche#
Date 41 9 Dec 2008 El Chalten
Patagonia Adventura picked me up at 8:10a.m. The bus went to pier and took picture en route. The sky had nothing but blue colour. The Torre & Fitz Roy were clearly seen. I arrived at the pier at 9:45a.m. The boat was modern, comfortable and deluxe.
The cruise was about 40 minutes. I appreciated the wonderful view of Glacier Viedma. My boat was the only one there and was tranquil in such a beautiful Viedma Lake. Although Glacier Viedma was less famous than Perito Moreno Glacier, I could see the whole glacier now. It seemed that it belonged to me only.
I landed at 11:00 a.m. and walked on rocky surface for 30 minutes. I changed the crampon and walked on the glacier. It was not difficult for me as it was not the first time. The ice-trek used crampon without ice axe and helmet.
We walked along a gentle slope without difficulty. When I came close to crevasse, I was advised to stop. I had reached the highest point after 30 minutes and advised to turn back. It was too short and I felt being cheated as I had walked 7 days on the glacier in Pakistan.
The guide got some fresh ice and champagne for us to taste. They felt excited. I thought they were native. I went back to shore at 2:00 p.m. and waited until 3:00p.m to return.
Date 42 10 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I ate simple bread as breakfast and left 7:45a.m. The walking distance was 25km and I estimated that I needed to walk for 10 hours.
I arrived at the trailhead at 8:00a.m. The first part was gentle uphill and went under forest. The trail was well-maintained and the view was clear after 30 minutes. I could see panoramic view of El Chalten town. I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:30 a.m. I could see the first view of Ritz Roy, Poincenot & Co-Torre that were higher than 3000m. Two trekkers overtook me at this point. I walked downhill to grassland and along the riverbank.
The sky had nothing but emerald blue. Ritz Roy was in the front ahead. I walked toward the destination step by step. I met some campers who returned and I arrived at Poincenot Campsite at 11:00 a.m. My target was to Laguna De Los Tres by 12:30 a.m.
I passed over the Rio Blanco and saw Camp Rio Blanco. The trail was along scree slope. There was signage on the way and it was easy to follow. I was so tired as I had already walked for 5 hours. The tip of Ritz Roy was appeared at 12:00a.m. and it rose above slowly in my eye.
After climbing scree slope, it was terminal moraine that was not new for me. When I climbed over the moraine, the Laguna De Los Tres came into my eye. The lake was frozen with emerald blue water. It was like a sapphire! The tarn & and moraine were usually gray colour with scatter icebergs. Now it was frozen completely and was the most beautiful one ever seen. Although the lake was small, it was right in front of the Ritz Roy whose image was reflected in the surface. The scenery was stunning.
I took lunch (Tomato & bread) at the lakeshore and climbed up to terminal moraine later. The view was much better on the top and returned at 1:45 p.m. It was rest day tomorrow and I walked slowing. I arrived at 6:00p.m. after 10 hours' walk. I took dinner($35) menu lamb. It was delicious. The tour of El Chalten was finished.
Date 43 11 Dec 2008 El Chalten ~ Bariloche
I would take the bus "Marga" to Bariloche (36hr). The trip to Patagonia was end. The first time I saw it was the brand "Patagonia" which was an expansive sports wear brand in Hong Kong. Moreover, I had also seen the scenery of Patagonia from the documentary in National Geography Channel. My brain was embedded in enormous picture of it. Now, I came to there to see. The dream came true!
Patagonia was the southern part of South America(Argentina and Chile). I had visited the eastern part, Peninsula Valdes. I was amazed to see unexpected 10 giant Southern Right whale in a single cruise. Elephant seals and Orca were also seen there. The temperate grassland was great from Puerto Madryn to Ushuaia. The same grassland feature could last for 1000km. Ushuaia was the most southern city of Argentina and it was also the end of road from Alaska. The bus ferry crossing Strait of Magellan was leant in school time and it was very meaningful to see it 30 years later.
5 days-trek-Torres del Paine was the highlight of Patagonia. I thought only a few Hong Kong people could manage it. It was not the reason of strength, but the time constraint and the information required. The most memorable day was that I walked for 14 hours with my 18kg load. I needed to use your own strength to climb in order to see the Torres!
El Calafate was just a traditional tourist city. Moreno Glacier was famous and it might be more tourists visiting it. I thought Viedma Glacier was more beautiful.
The 4-days trip in El Chalten was the last stop in Patagonia. The Ritz Roy was equally attractive as the Torres Del Paine & the Yosemite Half-dome. I needed to walk 10 hours to see it.
The bus left El Chalten at 23:00p.m. and it was a classical one. I prepared some food to eat it the bus and it was full.
Date 44 12 Dec 2008 On the bus to Bariloche
All day was in the bus. It was uncomfortable as it was hot and stuffy. It was boring and tiring. The bus passed through Rio Mayo, Esquel and El Bolson. I took tea stop on the way.
Date 45 13 Dec 2008 Bariloche
I arrived at Bariloche at 8:40 a.m. after 32 hours bus-ride. The bus station was not in downtown. I went to Tourist Information to get some maps. However, there was no one on duty. I went to the local bus station to take route no. 20 ($1.7). I walked 10 minutes to Perikos Hostel after taking off in town centre. The bed cost $40 including breakfast. The room was spacious and the bathroom was very modern.
I decided to join rafting by "Patagonia Rafting" ($280) after consulting hostel manager. Moreover, the Club Andino advised me to a 3-days trek to Cerro Catedral & Tres Reyes. They said that there was no need to make reservation.
As the hostel was vacant in the afternoon, I uploaded some photos into my facebook. The speed was extremely slow. It took 2 hours to upload 7 photos!
Date 46 14 Dec 2008 Bariloche
The hostel room was mixed sex in Argentina and I was the king and slept with three queens. One girl was dream lady. Foreign girl was normally young and more than 40% was beautiful. Hong Kong travellers were more mature and they had intrinsic beauty only. If they were beautiful, they would not go there. I slept very well and waked-up at 7:00a.m. Although the breakfast was simple bread only, the drink was unlimited. I was required to clean the dish myself after use.
Patagonia Rafting picked up at 9:30a.m. with three more ladies from the same hostel. One was very beautiful. The van speed was 80~90 km/hr in the highway and 50km/hr in gravel road. The scenery was fascinating on the way. However, the van did not have photo stop.
We arrived at the base camp at 12:00a.m. It was an open grassland near the river bank and was surrounded by mountains. We changed the rafting equipment after brunch. 15-minutes drive was needed to the starting point.
I was taught some rafting safety and technique on land. In fact, I learnt it before. This river was class III. We had 11 people and were divided into two boats. I was in the advanced one.
The flow of the first 15 minutes was slow and the water temperature was about 15oC. It was very comfortable under warm some sunlight. The rapid was not great and I had no difficulty in it. 4 people were dropped off in a great rapid. Two (including me) were safely stayed in the boat. We swam into the water in the middle section. It was the first time and very funny. The rafting ended after 2 hours when we arrived at the Chile border.
The van drove us back to camp site at 3:00p.m. We took a BBQ lunch and I ate a lot of meat. I left campsite at 5:00 p.m. and back to hostel at 6:50p.m. $280 was value for money.
The rafting river name : Manso River (Class III)
Length : 12km, 2hr
Distance from Bariloche : 118km, 2 hr
Date 47 15 Dec 2008 Refugio Frey
I stored up some luggage in Hostel in the morning and left at 8:40a.m. I arrived at the bus station at 9:00a.m in order to catch the bus at 9:15a.m. However, the schedule had changed into 10:10a.m. Anyway, I got on bus at 10:10 and arrived at the Catedral bus terminal at 10:40a.m. Catedral was a sky resort in winter but it was cool now.
The first part of the trail was gentle slope and passed through forest. When I went to the back side of the mountain, I walked along river Van Titter. This part was not difficult to walk. I came to Piedritas Camp after crossing a river junction. The path was rocky and steeper in the following. I could see some snow in opposite mountain slope. I arrived at the Refugio Frey at 4:10 p.m. It was only 5 hours and not too bad. The refugio was primitive and dirty. One bed cost $30, $25 for a dinner & $18 for a breakfast.
There was some snow outside the refugio and snow line was about 1700m. The map showed that I needed to climb two steep passes tomorrow. I was surprised that it was so demanding.
The refugio was very small and only a few people stayed tonight. Local people were mainly camped outside. Dinner was spaghetti only while others prepared their food themselves. Pizza was only $35. It was free in entering this park as well as camping. However, the living condition was primitive and no shower facility. I strolled along the lakeside after dinner. It was covered by deep snow.
Date 48 16 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I waked up at 6:20 a.m. and took breakfast at 7:15a.m. The breakfast ($18) was chocolate+3 breads. The weather was excellent. The sky was emerald blue and I could see the mirror image of snow-capped mountain in the water surface of lake.
I left at 8:00a.m. and walked along the Laguna Tonchek. It seemed that it was very small but it took half an hour. Catedral mountain was closer and closer. It was similar to cathedral and the sharp hill attracted many climbers from the world. The blue sky was scattered with cirrus cloud.
I hiked uphill after passing the lake. More snow was formed on this slope. I could see Laguna Schmool at 9:10 a.m. It was a very small lake and part of the surface was frozen. Moreover, it was surrounded by snowy slope. I was surprised to see this amazing scenery. I was the only person there and it was completely silent. All I could hear was my breathing. I hopped over boulders and went to various positions to take photos. I could also look back to the Refugio Frey.
Although it was a heaven, I had to carry on along the snowy slope. The slope was steep and slippery. I was required to put extra attention to every step. If I slide down to the lake, no one would help me. More rocky and steep were near the top. I needed to climb in last part in order to reach the top at 10:00a.m.
I took a rest on the top to appreciate the surrounding area. There was various shapes of rocks. I could see a small glacier when I crossed the pass. There was a path junction that one was back to Catedral and the other was San Martin Refugio.
The downhill road was a very steep scree slope. Some part was about 80 degree. I could not walk and just slide down. It was very difficult to slide down the plain (1 hours) at 11:00 a.m. I took the early lunch on a boulder. The following part was easy route under the forest. I washed my leg and took a shower in the stream. The water temperature was so cool that I sank into water for 20 second only each time. It was because there was no shower facility in the refugio.
I hiked uphill again after an hour in the plain. The slope changed from gentle, steep to snowy & rocky. The last part was almost vertical and I needed to use every once of energy to overcome it. It took me 2 hours from the plain (1430m) to the pass (1870m). The pass had some snow only. I was the solo person there. I would see the 360 degree mountains neighbors. It seemed that they were belonged to me only! I could see the San Martin Refugio at the lakeside.
The downhill was the same in the morning. It was steep scree slope and took me an hour. Another 15 minutes was required to arrive San Martin. I arrived at 4:15p.m., 8 hours after the start. I was the first one to stay there. The refugio was better than Refugio Frey. One bed cost $30 and $45 for set dinner. More trekkers were coming in the evening.
Date 49 17 Dec 2008 Refugio San Martin
I left the refugio at 6:00 a.m. and wanted to finish by 11:00 a.m. The first part was steep rocky path. The pace was slow. I wore all the clothes as it was about 0oC in the early morning. I wore only one after half hour. I took a rest after an hour. I increased my pace when the path became gentle. My watch showed the temperature was only 8oC and snow was formed in the plant. However, I did not feel cold.
I crossed the mid-way bridge 3 hour after start at 9:00 a.m. The latter part was along the riverside and there was no good view. The trail was boring up and down. Finally, I finished the track at 11:30 a.m.
I realized that the road was gravel when I came to the trailhead. There was no public transport and the closest one was 6km away. I needed to walk as I did not see any people and car. The sun appeared in an unsuitable time. The road was hard and dusty. The weather was hot in such a road without shadow. I did not see any car within next half hour. I was so tired to take a rest near a bridge.
All of a sudden, a truck stopped beside me and they generously offer a lift. They could speak simple English and dropped me in the bus station. I took bus no.20 to the Bariloche bus terminal.
I brought the ticket ($37) to Sam Martin de los Andes at the bus station. I went back to Perikos' Hostel at 2:00p.m. I took a good sleep after shower. Dinner ($40) was taken at a Chinese restaurant and it was not good.
2009年3月25日 星期三
South America Trip D34 ~D40
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Torres_Del_Paine#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_calafate#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_calafate#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008
Day 34 Date : 2 Dec 2008 Refugio Los Cuernos
It was a tough day today and I waked up at 3:30 a.m. and started at 4:00a.m. It was cloudy and cool in the early morning. The sky was completely dark. I went alone and led by my headlamp and recalled a song "千山我獨行不必相送". The trail was easy to follow. The sky had light from 5:42 a.m. The beautiful mountains were covered by clouds. I arrived at Campamto Italiano at 7:00 a.m. The distance covered was 9.5km.
The park office did not open yet as it was really too early. I look around to see any place was suitable for storing my bulky backpack. I saw that there was one put in front of the door. I thought that it was unsafe and decided to carry my pack (20kg) to climb up!
I filled up my water bottle in a river and saw the ice capped mountain "Punta Bariloche France Valley". It was a glacier which was nothing special for me. I walked along the lateral moraine. I could jump over the boulders if I walked without the backpack. Now, it was hopeless to crawl on it.
The sky was clear at 8:30 a.m. The grand granite mountains were silhouetted with blue sky. The scenery was stunning. I hided the instant noodle in the bush in order to decrease the load and hoped to get back on return.
Afterward, I needed to pass through forest and valley. More people overtook me from 9:00 a.m. I was surprised they only carried the small backpack. I arrived at the look-out venue at 10:20 a.m. It was surrounded 360oC by snow-capped mountains. I had to stop for rest there as me left leg cramped after 6 hours-walking.
I took 30 minutes rest there and went downhill at 11:40 a.m. I wanted to arrive at Los Cuernos by 6:00 p.m. Downhill road was not easier than uphill as the moraine was hard to walk. I could not find out the noodle and was back to Camp Italiano at 2:30 p.m. The trail was easier from there. But it was rocky and debris on the way and I arrived at 5:15p.m. It meant that I had walked about 13 hours from the morning.
Full board was $20,000. I paid $US 50 as I did not have enough Chilean cash. A coke cost $2000. It was pricy and liked stealing money from my pocket. I had no choice!
"肉隨針版上!" The dormitory was three storey.
The dinner consisted of soup, chicken rice and desert. The amount was small e and the taste was poor! It was heaven in Grande Paine yesterday and was in devil now. Overprice! Poor quality!
My body hurt in many parts as carrying such a heavy backpack for traveling for long distance. It included back, shoulder, leg and sun burn.
Day 35 Date : 3 Dec 2008 Refugio Chileano
The breakfast was scramble egg, cereals & 2 pieces of bread. The trail was along the lake in the morning. Although there was snowy mountain, it was rather hot. I only wore T-shirt and walked slowly as the distance to Refugio Chileano was only 16km. The trail was along a knoll in the afternoon. The view was much open. I enjoyed the hiking today as there was no need to struggle with time. I arrived at Refugio Chileano at 3:00 p.m. It was in the valley of Ascenio River.
I took a comfortable shower and asked the manager about the look-out point of Torres Del Paine. It was only 2 hours walk. As it was still early, I thought I could be back by 8:00 p.m. I carried the small backpack with camera & water and went at 4:15 p.m. Now it was hiking. My body was light and I was freedom to move without the heavy backpack.
It took me an hour to Torres Camp at 5:10p.m. and turned left to hike uphill on the moraine. It was various sizes of boulders. I needed to walk along trail but needed to hop over boulders. It was a real hike and sweating all the way. I required to rest for every twenty minutes. There was no view but endless boulders on the way.
I arrived at the look-out point at 6:05p.m. Three landmark granites towers appeared in front of me. They were Torre Norte, Torre Centre & Torre Sur. Now the dream came true. I had seen them many times in the National Geographic Channel. I always said I would be there when I was retired.
I traveled half the earth and walked four days carrying 18kg load. Each days walked 10~12 hours. This dream was hard to achieve. The view was breathing-taking and I sit there for more than 30 minutes. However, the direction of light was not good and I decided to come again in the next morning. I returned at 6:30 p.m. and arrived at hostel at 8:10 p.m. for dinner. I walked for 11 hours today.
Day 36 Date : 4 Dec 2008 Puerto Natales
I waked up at 3:40 a.m. and set off at 4:00 a.m. It took me 1 hour and 15 minutes to Camp Chilean. I was surprised to walk slower even after a rest day. It was faster to hike up on the moraine and it took only 50 minutes. It was such a coincident that I arrived at 6:10 a.m. 12 hours later. There were many people already there. Some carried the sleeping bag.
Now the direction of sun light was in the perfect direction. The view was stunning and much more beautiful. It was worthy walking another 4 hours to come again. I turned back at 6:30 a.m. and came back to hostel at 8:00 a.m.
I started to go downhill at 9:15 a.m. and the trail was very easy. I arrived at Hosteria Las Torres at 11:15 a.m. and took a shuttle bus ($2000) to park entrance. As the bus back to Puerto Natales was at 2:30 p.m., I was free to enjoy sun-bathing, writing diary & rest. It was really a leisure time. I recalled I had finished the W-route using 5 days.
I came back to Puerto Natales at 5:30 p.m. and brought the bus ticket ($10,000) to El Calafate in the bus station. I enjoyed the shower in the Hostel and took a great dinner from a restaurant. I sent an email for booking hostel tomorrow.
Day 37 Date : 5 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The bus picked up at 7:18 a.m. The distance was 352km and would need 5 hour to El Calafate including immigration clearance. I entered Argentina again today.
Omnibus station was in the city centre of El Calafate. I got a map in the tourist centre and walked 15 minutes to the America Del Sur Hostel. It was unluckily that the hostel was full. It was the first time in my trip. They introduced another hostel ($40)for me.
The hostel was not as good as America Del Sur. It also had kitchen for cooking. My room was a 6-bed room and only slept two people. I asked the manager about the activities there. Finally, I decided to go to the glacier by public bus.
The temperature was warm and clam. I only wore short T-shirt to Omni-bus station again to buy the bus ticket ($80) to Moreno Glacier. I also brought ticket ($70) to El Chalten on two days later.
I took a pizza ($20) as lunch at 3:00 p.m. I just walked around few shops as too tired and hungry. One pricy T-shirt cost $50. I brought ham + beacon + pizza as dinner and lunch tomorrow. I came back to hostel at 5:00 p.m. and slept until 6:30p.m.
The manager said she could not book the YHA in El Chalten using internet. I invited her using my phone to book. However, it was full. She helped me to book the Rancho Grande Hostel later. She was very helpful. I strolled outside after dinner. The sunset time was 9:00p.m. It was very charming!
Day 38 Date : 6 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The distance was 78km today. The bus departed at 9:30 a.m. The park entrance fee was $40. The next stop was Puerto Bajo De Las. One-hour cruise to El Calafate was $35 and it was the cheapest tour. The ship could sit for more than 300 people.
The ship sailed close to the glacier. I was unluckily to see the avalanche. The maximum height of the glacier was 50m from sea level. The view was impressive. The cruise ended at 11:45 a.m. The bus continued to the final view point at 12:30 a.m. and would pick me up at 3:30 p.m.
I thought there was no need to use 4 hours. It was just a view point. Therefore, I walked very slowly, took lunch and was waiting for avalanche. Although Moreno Glacier was the largest one in Argentina, it was not amazing to me as I had already seen too much in Antarctica. I felt it was tourist area for all ages.
I recalled Torres Del Paine which was suitable for adventure people only. I had spent 5 days there and stayed one night on different huts. I met a couple from Holland. They spent two days on each hut. One day was walking and the other was for leisure and rest. This was the major difference from Hong Kong.
The most striking venue was three towers in Torres Del Paine. Other scenic points were not spectacular. Most trails walked inside forest without good view and there was no clear signage along the road.
Grande Lodge was good among five huts. Most were poor facilities with pricy charge. For instance, $25HK a 600ml water & HK$40 a pack of chocolate. The food were small amount. "五粒星收費， 二粒星服務。" I think two days was enough in travelling Torres Del Paine and stayed one night at Italiano Refugio.
Day 39 Date : 7 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I took the bus "Chalten Travel" to El Chalten. The distance was 220km. The bus departed at 8:10 a.m. A fat lady sat beside me. I was lucky that the bus was not full and I could change sit when the bus had started. It was very comfortable I sat for two seats.
The bus drove 90~100km/hr on the paved road in the beginning and it was a new one. I had a tea stop in a small hotel at 9:40 a.m. and continued along the Viedma Lake. The Ritz Roy was in the opposite side of the lake. Most people took picture of such amazing view. I arrived at the entrance of El Chalten at 11:30 a.m.
All passengers were required to enter Park Office for briefing and I got a map. I returned to bus and arrived at Rancho Grande Hostel at 12:00a.m. The reception girl spoke quite well English. I was allocated in room 29. The bed cost $50 without breakfast! One word described it "Expansive". However, the room was spacious and had partition for storage of backpack. The window was large but it could not be opened.
I went to downtown to get information after a rest. Ice trekking to Laguna Torre was $360 among all companies. Patagonia Adventura had ice-trekking to Glacier Viedma ($350). I decided to join as it was cheaper than Chile($US 150).
I walked for an hour with finding the bus company "Tasqa" office. I asked the tourist information and was informed that it was only a very small office. The office hour was 5:30~8:30 p.m. Now it was 2:30 p.m. So I came back to hostel and took a rest.
I brought the ticket ($300) to Bariloche 4 days later. The bus ride was about 30 hours and it was a classic bus. Nightmare! No way! There was only two bus companies to offer this route and the other company's price was $360.
I hiked to the Condores Look-out afterward. It was only 25 minutes and I arrived at 6:30 p.m. The village of El Chalten was in my sight. It was pity that Ritz Roy was covered by thick cloud. I went back at 7:00 p.m. Dinner menu set ($26) was steak served with potato + coke. It was very delicious and value for money.
Day 40 Date : 8 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I got a very good sleep yesterday and it was the best in my trip as I was too tired. I only waked up once from 9:30 p.m. to 6:50 a.m. I took a $10 breakfast (unlimited tea + orange juice + 4 pieces of breads) at 7:00 a.m.
I left hostel at 8:00 a.m. and went to Laguna Torre. The trail entrance did not have signage and I need to ask people to confirm it. The first part was uphill and it was easy to walk. The path merged with the north path at 8:40 a.m. and I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:00 a.m.
I could see the Torre which was not El Chalten. Torre meant tower and it was a giant granite cliff cut by glacier. The height of Torre was 3102m. The sky was emerald blue and the Torre was covered with snow. The view was stunning. There had everything except a companion!
The trail was downhill and I arrived (3 hour walk)at CB De Agostai campsite. The time was the same as mentioned in the map. I did not enter the camp and walked to Laguna Torre along the terminal moraine. I arrived at 11:20 a.m. There were glaciers running down from the bottom of the Torre and its shadow was reflected in Laguna Torre. This break-taking was hard to be described in words. Torre had three sharp cut towers while Torres Del Paine was three round-shaped towers. Both were equally stunning.
I had my lunch on the lake shore. I hiked up along the lateral moraine and arrived at other look-out point at 12:30 a.m. Glacier Grande was in a better view there. I returned at 12:50 a.m. I supposed it would faster on return. However, my energy was decreasing fast. It took me 4 hours and I got back to hostel at 5:00p.m. It was 9 hour walk today.
I went to Patagonia Aventura to join Glacier Viedma's glacier walk($350) tomorrow. I had dinner in the same restaurant on yesterday at 7:00 p.m. after shower. The dinner ($30) was fried minted steak + salad + Fanta. It was quite good.
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