http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_calafate#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/El_Chalten#
Day 34 Date : 2 Dec 2008 Refugio Los Cuernos
It was a tough day today and I waked up at 3:30 a.m. and started at 4:00a.m. It was cloudy and cool in the early morning. The sky was completely dark. I went alone and led by my headlamp and recalled a song "千山我獨行不必相送". The trail was easy to follow. The sky had light from 5:42 a.m. The beautiful mountains were covered by clouds. I arrived at Campamto Italiano at 7:00 a.m. The distance covered was 9.5km.
The park office did not open yet as it was really too early. I look around to see any place was suitable for storing my bulky backpack. I saw that there was one put in front of the door. I thought that it was unsafe and decided to carry my pack (20kg) to climb up!
I filled up my water bottle in a river and saw the ice capped mountain "Punta Bariloche France Valley". It was a glacier which was nothing special for me. I walked along the lateral moraine. I could jump over the boulders if I walked without the backpack. Now, it was hopeless to crawl on it.
The sky was clear at 8:30 a.m. The grand granite mountains were silhouetted with blue sky. The scenery was stunning. I hided the instant noodle in the bush in order to decrease the load and hoped to get back on return.
Afterward, I needed to pass through forest and valley. More people overtook me from 9:00 a.m. I was surprised they only carried the small backpack. I arrived at the look-out venue at 10:20 a.m. It was surrounded 360oC by snow-capped mountains. I had to stop for rest there as me left leg cramped after 6 hours-walking.
I took 30 minutes rest there and went downhill at 11:40 a.m. I wanted to arrive at Los Cuernos by 6:00 p.m. Downhill road was not easier than uphill as the moraine was hard to walk. I could not find out the noodle and was back to Camp Italiano at 2:30 p.m. The trail was easier from there. But it was rocky and debris on the way and I arrived at 5:15p.m. It meant that I had walked about 13 hours from the morning.
Full board was $20,000. I paid $US 50 as I did not have enough Chilean cash. A coke cost $2000. It was pricy and liked stealing money from my pocket. I had no choice!
"肉隨針版上!" The dormitory was three storey.
The dinner consisted of soup, chicken rice and desert. The amount was small e and the taste was poor! It was heaven in Grande Paine yesterday and was in devil now. Overprice! Poor quality!
My body hurt in many parts as carrying such a heavy backpack for traveling for long distance. It included back, shoulder, leg and sun burn.
Day 35 Date : 3 Dec 2008 Refugio Chileano
The breakfast was scramble egg, cereals & 2 pieces of bread. The trail was along the lake in the morning. Although there was snowy mountain, it was rather hot. I only wore T-shirt and walked slowly as the distance to Refugio Chileano was only 16km. The trail was along a knoll in the afternoon. The view was much open. I enjoyed the hiking today as there was no need to struggle with time. I arrived at Refugio Chileano at 3:00 p.m. It was in the valley of Ascenio River.
I took a comfortable shower and asked the manager about the look-out point of Torres Del Paine. It was only 2 hours walk. As it was still early, I thought I could be back by 8:00 p.m. I carried the small backpack with camera & water and went at 4:15 p.m. Now it was hiking. My body was light and I was freedom to move without the heavy backpack.
It took me an hour to Torres Camp at 5:10p.m. and turned left to hike uphill on the moraine. It was various sizes of boulders. I needed to walk along trail but needed to hop over boulders. It was a real hike and sweating all the way. I required to rest for every twenty minutes. There was no view but endless boulders on the way.
I arrived at the look-out point at 6:05p.m. Three landmark granites towers appeared in front of me. They were Torre Norte, Torre Centre & Torre Sur. Now the dream came true. I had seen them many times in the National Geographic Channel. I always said I would be there when I was retired.
I traveled half the earth and walked four days carrying 18kg load. Each days walked 10~12 hours. This dream was hard to achieve. The view was breathing-taking and I sit there for more than 30 minutes. However, the direction of light was not good and I decided to come again in the next morning. I returned at 6:30 p.m. and arrived at hostel at 8:10 p.m. for dinner. I walked for 11 hours today.
Day 36 Date : 4 Dec 2008 Puerto Natales
I waked up at 3:40 a.m. and set off at 4:00 a.m. It took me 1 hour and 15 minutes to Camp Chilean. I was surprised to walk slower even after a rest day. It was faster to hike up on the moraine and it took only 50 minutes. It was such a coincident that I arrived at 6:10 a.m. 12 hours later. There were many people already there. Some carried the sleeping bag.
Now the direction of sun light was in the perfect direction. The view was stunning and much more beautiful. It was worthy walking another 4 hours to come again. I turned back at 6:30 a.m. and came back to hostel at 8:00 a.m.
I started to go downhill at 9:15 a.m. and the trail was very easy. I arrived at Hosteria Las Torres at 11:15 a.m. and took a shuttle bus ($2000) to park entrance. As the bus back to Puerto Natales was at 2:30 p.m., I was free to enjoy sun-bathing, writing diary & rest. It was really a leisure time. I recalled I had finished the W-route using 5 days.
I came back to Puerto Natales at 5:30 p.m. and brought the bus ticket ($10,000) to El Calafate in the bus station. I enjoyed the shower in the Hostel and took a great dinner from a restaurant. I sent an email for booking hostel tomorrow.
Day 37 Date : 5 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The bus picked up at 7:18 a.m. The distance was 352km and would need 5 hour to El Calafate including immigration clearance. I entered Argentina again today.
Omnibus station was in the city centre of El Calafate. I got a map in the tourist centre and walked 15 minutes to the America Del Sur Hostel. It was unluckily that the hostel was full. It was the first time in my trip. They introduced another hostel ($40)for me.
The hostel was not as good as America Del Sur. It also had kitchen for cooking. My room was a 6-bed room and only slept two people. I asked the manager about the activities there. Finally, I decided to go to the glacier by public bus.
The temperature was warm and clam. I only wore short T-shirt to Omni-bus station again to buy the bus ticket ($80) to Moreno Glacier. I also brought ticket ($70) to El Chalten on two days later.
I took a pizza ($20) as lunch at 3:00 p.m. I just walked around few shops as too tired and hungry. One pricy T-shirt cost $50. I brought ham + beacon + pizza as dinner and lunch tomorrow. I came back to hostel at 5:00 p.m. and slept until 6:30p.m.
The manager said she could not book the YHA in El Chalten using internet. I invited her using my phone to book. However, it was full. She helped me to book the Rancho Grande Hostel later. She was very helpful. I strolled outside after dinner. The sunset time was 9:00p.m. It was very charming!
Day 38 Date : 6 Dec 2008 El Calafate
The distance was 78km today. The bus departed at 9:30 a.m. The park entrance fee was $40. The next stop was Puerto Bajo De Las. One-hour cruise to El Calafate was $35 and it was the cheapest tour. The ship could sit for more than 300 people.
The ship sailed close to the glacier. I was unluckily to see the avalanche. The maximum height of the glacier was 50m from sea level. The view was impressive. The cruise ended at 11:45 a.m. The bus continued to the final view point at 12:30 a.m. and would pick me up at 3:30 p.m.
I thought there was no need to use 4 hours. It was just a view point. Therefore, I walked very slowly, took lunch and was waiting for avalanche. Although Moreno Glacier was the largest one in Argentina, it was not amazing to me as I had already seen too much in Antarctica. I felt it was tourist area for all ages.
I recalled Torres Del Paine which was suitable for adventure people only. I had spent 5 days there and stayed one night on different huts. I met a couple from Holland. They spent two days on each hut. One day was walking and the other was for leisure and rest. This was the major difference from Hong Kong.
The most striking venue was three towers in Torres Del Paine. Other scenic points were not spectacular. Most trails walked inside forest without good view and there was no clear signage along the road.
Grande Lodge was good among five huts. Most were poor facilities with pricy charge. For instance, $25HK a 600ml water & HK$40 a pack of chocolate. The food were small amount. "五粒星收費， 二粒星服務。" I think two days was enough in travelling Torres Del Paine and stayed one night at Italiano Refugio.
Day 39 Date : 7 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I took the bus "Chalten Travel" to El Chalten. The distance was 220km. The bus departed at 8:10 a.m. A fat lady sat beside me. I was lucky that the bus was not full and I could change sit when the bus had started. It was very comfortable I sat for two seats.
The bus drove 90~100km/hr on the paved road in the beginning and it was a new one. I had a tea stop in a small hotel at 9:40 a.m. and continued along the Viedma Lake. The Ritz Roy was in the opposite side of the lake. Most people took picture of such amazing view. I arrived at the entrance of El Chalten at 11:30 a.m.
All passengers were required to enter Park Office for briefing and I got a map. I returned to bus and arrived at Rancho Grande Hostel at 12:00a.m. The reception girl spoke quite well English. I was allocated in room 29. The bed cost $50 without breakfast! One word described it "Expansive". However, the room was spacious and had partition for storage of backpack. The window was large but it could not be opened.
I went to downtown to get information after a rest. Ice trekking to Laguna Torre was $360 among all companies. Patagonia Adventura had ice-trekking to Glacier Viedma ($350). I decided to join as it was cheaper than Chile($US 150).
I walked for an hour with finding the bus company "Tasqa" office. I asked the tourist information and was informed that it was only a very small office. The office hour was 5:30~8:30 p.m. Now it was 2:30 p.m. So I came back to hostel and took a rest.
I brought the ticket ($300) to Bariloche 4 days later. The bus ride was about 30 hours and it was a classic bus. Nightmare! No way! There was only two bus companies to offer this route and the other company's price was $360.
I hiked to the Condores Look-out afterward. It was only 25 minutes and I arrived at 6:30 p.m. The village of El Chalten was in my sight. It was pity that Ritz Roy was covered by thick cloud. I went back at 7:00 p.m. Dinner menu set ($26) was steak served with potato + coke. It was very delicious and value for money.
Day 40 Date : 8 Dec 2008 El Chalten
I got a very good sleep yesterday and it was the best in my trip as I was too tired. I only waked up once from 9:30 p.m. to 6:50 a.m. I took a $10 breakfast (unlimited tea + orange juice + 4 pieces of breads) at 7:00 a.m.
I left hostel at 8:00 a.m. and went to Laguna Torre. The trail entrance did not have signage and I need to ask people to confirm it. The first part was uphill and it was easy to walk. The path merged with the north path at 8:40 a.m. and I arrived at the first look-out point at 9:00 a.m.
I could see the Torre which was not El Chalten. Torre meant tower and it was a giant granite cliff cut by glacier. The height of Torre was 3102m. The sky was emerald blue and the Torre was covered with snow. The view was stunning. There had everything except a companion!
The trail was downhill and I arrived (3 hour walk)at CB De Agostai campsite. The time was the same as mentioned in the map. I did not enter the camp and walked to Laguna Torre along the terminal moraine. I arrived at 11:20 a.m. There were glaciers running down from the bottom of the Torre and its shadow was reflected in Laguna Torre. This break-taking was hard to be described in words. Torre had three sharp cut towers while Torres Del Paine was three round-shaped towers. Both were equally stunning.
I had my lunch on the lake shore. I hiked up along the lateral moraine and arrived at other look-out point at 12:30 a.m. Glacier Grande was in a better view there. I returned at 12:50 a.m. I supposed it would faster on return. However, my energy was decreasing fast. It took me 4 hours and I got back to hostel at 5:00p.m. It was 9 hour walk today.
I went to Patagonia Aventura to join Glacier Viedma's glacier walk($350) tomorrow. I had dinner in the same restaurant on yesterday at 7:00 p.m. after shower. The dinner ($30) was fried minted steak + salad + Fanta. It was quite good.
Seems that you're on a tough journey! @o@'''
回覆刪除I couldn't imagine walking for 13 hours a day...you're so stong!
Take care Shum Shum!