Switzerland Hiking Aug 2006

http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2006/Switerzland#

The Walker’s Haute Route

Introduction

MacLehose Trail was 100 km in length across Hong Kong countryside. The Walker’s Haute Route was 180km in length. It linked up Mont Blanc ( 4807m: The highest mountain in Western Europe ) and Matterhorn ( 4478m : Landmark of Switzerland). I crossed 11 passes, gained more than 12,000m in height within two weeks. The trail was a pilgrimage to the Matterhorn. The Route was walking from Chamonix in France to Zermatt in Switzerland

This time was hiking not trekking. Trekking meant walking in high attitude ( normally over 3000m) with load carried by porter. Hiking meant walking under 3000m and all load was carried by myself. My full backpack was about 18kg while normal luggage weight limit was 20kg only in plane!

Normal day schedule was as follows :
6:00 a.m. Wake-up
6:30 a.m. Breakfast
7:00 a.m. Start ( 6 ~11 hr walking)
4~6 p.m. Finish
10:00 p.m. Sleep
I stayed in single room of hotel in villages or dormitory in mountain huts.

Trail Description

The trail was a good path and well-marked. Signposts were founded at major junctions. It was very easy to follow. The trail not only came across country side, but passed through small lane of villages as well as backyard of local house.

The path might be a well-paved track, narrow lane along hanging valley contouring hanging cliff and went through forest or larch tree.

There were some difficult parts too. I had to walk across scree slope, suspension bridge, hoping over boulders and walk over glaciers. Sometimes, I had to cross over streams, rivers and rapids.

To sum up, the level of difficulty was similar to that of the MacLehose Trail in most parts. I discovered delightful villages and remote hamlets, wander flower meadows and forests, skirt exquisite tarns that turn mountains on their heads and clamber beside glaciers.

Mountain Hut

Mountain huts were located among countryside in a suitable walking distance. There were always stunning views. Although mountain huts were in remote location, they provided modern facilities such as drinking water, electricity, food, coke, beer, wine, modern kitchen, hot water shower,…

It was a base for holiday hikers as well as serious climbers. Dormitory accommodation and half-pension were the norm. Dormitory meant sleeping in a bed in a large room which might be from 2 to 20. Half-pension meant dinner, bed and breakfast. Lunch was provided with extra cost. The price was in the range $350 ~ $500. It was reasonable in Switzerland standard.

Traditional dinner included :
Soup
Salad
Main course : pork, beef, steak or spaghetti.
Desert

The longest day

26 July 2006 Wednesday
Cabane Du Mont Fort to Cabane De Prafleuri
Distance : 14 km, Climb : 886m , Hiking time 10.5 hr.

I woke up at 6:30 a.m. and had a breakfast at 7:00a.m. I set off at 7:45a.m. The first part was along the very narrow footpath to Col de Termin. The trail was a high pass contouring at about 2500m altitude. City La Cable was on the valley below. Grand Clambin mountain and Grand Clambin glacier were on the opposite site of the valley. Some parts were cut by newly formed deep gully. It was difficult to pass as there were many loose debris formed by landslide.

I arrived at path junction with the shorter route at 12:00a.m. and took lunch there. It was already 2 hours behind schedule. The route was very steep from there to Col de Louvie (2921m). The path was along debris and large boulders. There was no formal path and way marks were founded on boulders. I had to hop, climb and crawl over giant boulders. It was very tough even without the 18kg backpack. It was totally exhausted when I reached Col de Louvie at 1:30 p.m.

Col de Louvie to Col de Prafleuri

This was the most difficult part of the day. The terrain was undulating. I had to walk along lateral moraine and terminal moraine. Hopping and climbing down boulders were the normal practice. I was slide down several times in downhill. Moreover, I had to cross two tarns over some protruded rocks.

I had learnt the term “hailstorm” in geography lesson long time ago. I was the first time to encounter hailstorm which was very funny when dropping on my head with dong, dong, dong sound in the beginning. However, it was disgusting for the next three hour!!

Although this part was demanding, I was impressed by glaciers, tarns, streams, rivers and rapids. The landscape was fascinating and there was breathtaking view en route.

I arrived at Col de Prafleuri at 5:00 p.m. Stunning view was covered by heavy downpour. Besides hailstorm, thunderstorm was happening too. Downhill trail became muddy, slippery and became a small river. A small incident made me nervous when I needed to cross a small stream. This stream had changed into a flooding river and rapid as running water was flowing from glacier. I went to and fro to find a safe place to cross. Finally, I chose a level ground to cross in a metre-depth water level. Finally, I arrived at Cabane De Prafleur at 6:15 p.m. and still had time for a shower before dinner.

Wildlife

When I stepped on the grass land, grass hopper would jump forward, sideward and backward. Flowers were small in alpine area. Butterfly was flying among flowers for pollination. I would hear natural bird song from time to time. Cow fed on grass and drank water from water fountains. They had come to smell me. Other interesting animals included chamois, ibex, marmot and mountain goat.

Solitude

As I walked slowing, I set off early in the morning. However, I was overtaken by other hikers on route. Therefore, I was walking alone actually. My companion was the tranquil environment which inspired my deep thought. Sometimes, the tranquility was broken by song of birds, soaring sound of streams, rivers and waterfalls. They were so peaceful as in harmony with one another. I was wondering I was an audience listening philharmonic orchestra in a concert hall.

I recalled my memory on day 11. It was also a very tough day. I had walked already 9 hours after crossing the Moiry Glacier safely. The hut was only 100m above. I crawled up along steep scree slope from the glacier. I found a overlooking place to rest and had my last bread. Although it was raining, freezing cool, windy and exhausted, I really enjoyed sitting there admiring the breathtaking view. My heart was peaceful even in such a tough conditions. My heart was moved by the Chinese idiom. ( 太山崩於前而色不變 )

Threatening experience

Backpack was accidentally rolling 50m downhill.
Climbing up 100m height ladder in a vertical cliff
Close encounter with fighting cow
Walking under thunderstorm
Crossing an overhanging and swinging bridge
Crossing a rapid