South America Trip D50_D58

http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Lanin#
http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2009/Pucon#

Date 50 18 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes

The bus left at 9:00 a.m. to San Martin. It was a small bus only. I took a tea break in Confluencia. There were mountains and lakes on the way. The terrain was varies and it was scenic one. 『山明水秀』 It was quite different from Patagonia. The second stop was Junin de los Andes. I could see the Volcano Lanin on the way.

I arrived at the San Martin at 1:30 p.m. I asked the bus schedule to Pucon (Chile). There was one bus ($75) at 6:00a.m. daily. I walked 15 minutes to Puma YHA. The room was good. I asked the manager about the information of Lanin. She just recommended me to ask the tourist information.

I asked several agents and they did not have departure tomorrow. One agent had departure on 21 Dec. The price was $950 for a two-day trip. Extravagant!

As there was no scheduled activities tomorrow, I went out to walk after dinner at 9:00p.m. I was seldom to have night walk. It was because the tight schedule and tiring body. Normally I slept at 9:30p.m. Some shops still opened at such time. I brought $59 a slipper. I went back at 10:30p.m. and saw a group of people checked in at 11:00p.m. They were local people.

Date 51 19 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes

I waked up at 8:00a.m. and had a very good sleep. There was no schedule activity and no need to take bus. The body resumed the energy. I rented a bike from Adventure Store at 9:20a.m. The mountain bike was 18-speed. The price was $30 half-day including helmet, pump, spare tire and lock. The shop manager suggested the 50km circuit.

The first part was uphill along Lacar Lake. It was cloudy without sun. The weather was good and the scenery was fine. I did not cycle for a long time. The slope was not too steep to handle but I had to take more rest for every half hour. I decided to take a shorter route after two hour cycling. It was not the ability to cycling 50km circuit. I wanted to save energy for climbing Volcano Lanin. Downhill was along the gravel. Although it was downhill, I needed to use extra energy to control the speed. Finally, I came back at 12:20a.m.

I went to supermarket at 3:00p.m. I had plenty of time to look various food and goods in it. The beef & steak (HK$ 30/kg )were cheaper than ham & beacon. I brought steak for dinner. The afternoon sleep was very sweat today.

I went to Yuco agent to book the Sunday tour ($950)to Volcano Lanin. I needed to take the public bus to Junin de los Andes at 8:00a.m. The local guide would pick up at Junin de los Andes. I paid 20% as the deposit.

Date 52 20 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes

It was a free day today and was raining in the morning. I took boat($38 return ticket) to Quila Quina when the weather was fine at 1:00p.m. The boat ride was half-hour and had 5 passengers only. The voyage was surprising rough in the lake. There was a nice restaurant in the pier.

It was raining when I arrived at the Quila Quina. I went around the campsite and to the waterfall. It was very boring and cool in such weather. I came back to the restaurant to have a cup of tea($8) or to rent a place to rest. It was not easy to wait for the return boat at 4:00p.m.

I brought the bus ticket ($75) to Pucon at 23 Dec and sent email ($2/hr)from the bus station. When I came back to hostel, a Norway people was confirmed to go to Lanin with me tomorrow.

Date 53 21 Dec 2008 San Martin de los Andes ~ Volcano Lanin

I waked up at 6:30a.m. and prepared breakfast myself. I left hostel at 7:30a.m. and arrived at bus station at 7:50a.m. The bus left at 8:00a.m. and arrived at Junin de los Andes one hour later.

I could not see the local agent when we arrived. The guide arrived 15 minutes later. Besides us, two more Argentina people from Buenos Aires were in the group. The van arrived at the park office of Volcano Lanin at 10:30 a.m. We were allocated with helmet, gaiter, ice-axe & crampon as well as some common food.

We set off at 10:50a.m. The first leg was gentle path through the forest. The second was moraine desert from 11:40 to 12:30 a.m. where I could see the whole picture of Lanin. The third leg was uphill along rocky path and it was not difficult. I took two rests on the way. We met some snow on the path just before the campsite and arrived at Refugio Militar Nuevo at 4:10p.m. I thought it was a hut with bed & kitchen. However, it was a hollow barrel only. We just laid down my sleeping sheet in ground for sleeping. There was two soldiers on-duty.

We went to the glacier for collecting icy water after rest. The guide was responsible for cooking. The Refugio was surround by ice and snow. It was freezing cool at night especially I went to toilet at mid-night as I needed to take outside in the glacier. We slept at about 9:30p.m. and would wake up at 3:00 a.m.

Date 54 22 Dec 2008 Volcano Lanin Summit Ascent

We ( 4 climbers + 1 guide + 2 solders ) slept inside the barrel. The ground was cement inside the barrel. All ,except one, had carried sleeping mat for sleeping. I did not feel cold as I wore down jacket. One said it was freezing cool as he did not have sleeping mat.

I waked up at 2:30 a.m. and awaked up the guide at 2:40 a.m. The guide just prepared some tea, cake & cheese as breakfast. We set off under the twilight stars at 3:50 a.m. I arrived at the water collection place 10 minutes later. We wore the crampon and walked on the icy slope. The surface was hard ice and was easy to walk on it. The guide walked very slow and always zigzag on the way even in a gentle slope. We took a break at 5:20 a.m. on a rocky spur after an hour.

We carried on the slope in the right hand side. Although the slope was 45oC, I just walked slow and was the last one as usual. Another break was at 6:10a.m. One of us, Norway, had been a solder. Although he was more than 50's, his body was very fit and walked fast. Our guide ( Marco ) kept a good pace and always look at me from time to time. He was very professional and also had been a guide in Aconcagua Trek.

We put off crampon and followed the spur uphill. The path passed through loose rocky spur and snow on the way. It was really tough and demanding. It requested your every once of energy. The sun rose at 6:30a.m. and the sky was golden colour shinning on the crystal white snow. There was a giant snowy slope in the front and twilight stars on the sky. This stunning view was impressive.

We arrived at a platform to take a break at 10:00a.m. The top seemed that it was very close. We carried on a very steep spur. I was so tired to take a break after 15 minutes. The following snowy slope was much steeper. It was easy on zigzag pace. We met another group of trekkers returning at 12:00a.m.

The guide said that the most demanding was finished. The last part was gentle snowy slope. The ice crystal had various shape. It similar to the surface of moon. The strong wind blew up snow surface similar to the sand on the beach.

I was still struggle in walking, resting, walking, resting,... The higher I climbed, the more windy & the more harder snow. Marco waited me just before the top. I waved up both poles and passed through him to achieved the summit at 1:00p.m.

Others were taking photos. 360o view was in my sight. One side was Argentina & the other was Chile. I could also see Volcano Villarrica. The ice crystal was much more beautiful and extremely pure. I walked 7 hours from base camp and climbed 2330m to 3776m. I needed to climb 2 great snowy slopes and 3 steep spurs.

I almost drank all 2 litre of water and felt dehydrated. It was not fast downhill as the trail was very tough. I only saved the rest time. We retreated along the same path. It was very difficult to go down along the spur. I just crawled down step by step and I cramped down many times in order to finish on spur.

The next part was snowy slope. No need to use crampon as the snow was soft now. But it was much more difficult to walk and used up extra energy to complete it. It was difficult to finish to descend 600m at 2:00p.m. using 3 hours. I needed to descend 600m more to return to refugio. I did not know when I could finish.

When we reached another snowy slope, Marco taught me to ski/ slide down and used the ice axe to control the speed. I was nervous at the beginning and could handle it quickly. It was very funny and I tried to make it slide faster. Most people were also sliding down. It was easy and fast to finish a slope and walked to other side and slide down again. We arrived at the water collection point again after 30 minutes. I drank some water and refill the water bottle. Finally, we came back to base camp at 3:00p.m. using 4 hours.

We took a rest and had a tea & food. We descended at 4:00p.m. and arrived at trailhead at 6:30p.m. The van pick up half hour later and brought ice-coke and food for us. I was back to Junin de los Andes at 8:30p.m. The bus departed to San Martin at 10:00 p.m. so I had dinner at Junin. I went back to Puma Hostel at 11:00 p.m. and still needed to pack up luggage. Finally, I slept at 12:30p.m. and would waked up early to catch 6:00a.m morning bus.

I had walked 14 hours today. ( 7 + 4 + 3 hours ) and only slept for 4 hours.
Uphill 1440m and down hill 2500m. Totally Exhausted!!

Date 55 23 Dec 2008 Pucon

I waked up at 5:00a.m. The breakfast was 2 breads and a cup of tea. I walked to the bus station and got on bus at 6:00a.m. I slept once I sit as I had only slept 4 hours for consecutive 2 days. The first stop was Junin again. I was awaked up as I sit the wrong seat. I slept again once the bus start and waked up again when the bus was near volcano Lanin. Most passengers took photos and said it was so beautiful. But they did not know that I was in the summit 24 hours ago.

I cleared the Argentina Immigration(40 min.) at 8:30a.m. and was followed by Chile Immigration at 10:00a.m. All luggages were scanned one by one by x-ray. No fresh vegetable and meat were allowed to carry into Chile. However, I had forgotten to take out the cucumber from my pack. They found it out and I was treated as prisoner. They confiscated my passport and sent me to see their supervisor. I explained the reason but he did not accept it. I was fined $US 200. They prepared several documents for me to sign. The process took about an hour. The bus waited for me. All clapped hands when I got on the bus an hour later. I felt very sorry for their patient.

The bus drove along the gravel road for another hour to a small town. It was much faster when the road turned into paved one. I arrived at Pucon at 1:00 p.m. and walked 10 minutes to the Ecole Hostel. One bed cost $10,000 (HK$ 130) excluding breakfast. My bed was in a 3-bed room at 2/F. It was nice to have a balcony outside. I could relax and write diary. Ground floor was a nice restaurant.

I asked information in the reception and went out for lunch. A set lunch (Chicken rice + salad + tea) cost $ 3300. It was half price as in Argentina. O'Higgins street had many tour agents. I decided to go rafting in Upper Trancurna River (Class IV, $28,000). I would also climb Villarrica ($40,000) on 25 Dec.

I came back to hostel at 4:00p.m. and took clothes to laundry ($3500). I had a sleep for 1.5 hour and sent email later. I had dinner in a decent restaurant. The set menu (bread + soup + steak + rice + tea) cost $3500 only. It was excellent quality and unbeatable price.

I asked the Pullman bus company about the schedule to Santiago. It departed at 21:00 and would arrive at 7:00 a.m. I would buy it on 25 Dec or stayed one more day there.

Date 56 24 Dec 2008 Pucon

I came to the rafting company at 10:00a.m. However, two clients did not turn up and they said that we could not set off. I was asked to wait for more clients as the minimum number was 4. It was luckily that 2 more local people joined and we set off at 10:30a.m. We arrived at the starting point after 40 minutes drive.

I jumped into water at 11:30a.m. The water was cooler than Bariloche. We were taught some basic skill and order in the beginning. They included "Forward, backward, highside left, highside right, position, fast forward...".

One camera girl took pictures at some scenic point. The rapid was one by one. One giant rapid was very dangerous. We were required to take off and walked on land to pass over it. We came to a cliff and jumped into the river one by one. It was the first time for me to jump and swam into the boat again. The rafting finished after an hour.

I had rafted two times in S.A. trip. The rafting was class IV today. But I found it was not very difficult. I brought the rafting photos($5000) and came back to hostel at 1:40 p.m. I booked the tour to Villarrica Ascent ($40,000) tomorrow after a rest. They provided all equipment (rucksack, ice axe, boots, jacket, mitten, plaster).

Date 57 25 Dec 2008 Pucon

I arrived at the tour company "Aguaventura" office at 7:00a.m. and departed at 7:30 a.m. The tour had 16 persons and carried by two vans. The van arrived at the trailhead at 8:10a.m. and we set off at 8:30a.m.

The starting point was the ski resort tram station which did not open. The first leg was soft rocky trail and was not difficult to walk. We took a break at the tram upper station after an hour. My zipper in the top of my backpack was opened and my Swiss army knife was lost. I did not know when it dropped. The knife was brought in Switzerland and accompanied me for 20 years.

It was bad luck in Chile:
(a) Lost towel in Torre del Paine
(b) Find $US 200
(c) Hurt fingers in rafting Pucon
(d) Lost swiss army knife

I walked on snowy slope later. The snow was soft and I needed not wear crampon. It was not difficult to follow the footprint of guide. They always walked in zigzag in any slope. We were separated into faster and slower groups. I was belongs to the fast group. We climbed the slope one by one and took break every 40 minutes. They started to walk once I arrived at the resting place.

I arrived at so called summit at 1:20p.m. 5 hours from start. In fact, I was not the summit and thought that it was 40~50m below the summit (2847m). It was because toxin gas was emitting from the volcano so we were not allowed to go. I took many photos and changed special equipment: Tough trouser, sweater, mitten, helmet & plaster skate.
I liked an alien! The equipment was required for sliding.

The guide taught us some basic skill and I followed to slide. Some slope was so steep that I needed to use ice axe to decrease and stop. Sometimes, I used the plaster skate to increase the speed. All my body was filled with snow and it was very funny and interesting. I took 1.5 hour to slide down.

I went back to Pucon hostel at 3:30p.m. and brought 9:00p.m. Pullman bus ($18,000) to Santiago. Dinner was taken in Ecole Hostel. I walked to the bus station and the bus was a new one. Cama-class was extremely comfortable. The bus departed sharply at 9:00p.m.

Date 58 26 Dec 2008 Santiago

I had a very good sleep in last night and arrived at 7:00a.m. The bus station was very large. I made a call to YHA to make the reservation and walked for 30 minutes. The main road was wide and the local city bus was new & modern. However, the street had many rubbish and a lot of graffiti in walls.

I came back to bus station after check-in and rest. The bus to Arica (Tus-bus $47,000) departed at 7:40a.m. tomorrow. I took a MTR($400) to downtown. The main square was surrounded by parliament and government house. It was similar to other capitals. Lunch was mussel soap rice($2500) and the taste was no good.

The hostel was modern and had spacious common area. I stayed in a 6-bed ($10,000) room and each had one locker in the room. 5 computers were free to use but the speed was very slow. The reading room was large and had a good collection of books.

All toilets had to charge ($200~$500) even in restaurants in Chile. I had not seen any beautiful ladies for the past 10 days. They were short and black in colour. The Argentina girls were much more beautiful.