South America Trip D59_D68

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Date 59 27 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica

I waked up at 6:30a.m. and took MTR from Los Heros to University de Santiago station. It took 10 minutes for travelling 4 stations. The MTR ticket was about $HK 3.8 and valid for the whole route.

The bus came at 7:20a.m. and it was double deck one. The lower deck was cama-class while it was semi-cama in the upper. I had not seen whole cama class bus in Chile. Simple breakfast was served in the bus.

I slept once the bus started. I saw the Pacific Ocean when I waked up an hour later. I was moved by it as I lived in the other side of the Pacific Ocean. The bus drove along the Pan-America Highway which was from Alaska to Ushuaia. The right hand side was semi-desert on the way. I arrived at La Serena at 13:30, Vallenar at 5:00p.m. & Copiapo at 6:50p.m.

Date 60 28 Dec 2008 Santiago ~ Arica

The bus stopped in Antofasgasta at 2:30 a.m. and three people boarded. The bus took a tea stop in Iquique at 8:00a.m. I was still hunger after eating peach. I brought sandwich & coffee ($1,000) outside bus station. The hot meal was excellent. The toilet had machine for collecting fee($200). I arrived at the Arica at 1:00p.m.

The bus station was 1km from city center and I could not find the location of bus station. Therefore, I took a taxi ($1,600) to the Hostal del Sol. Single room cost $9,000 a night with private toilet.

I asked the reception about bus information to Putre. However, she did not understand English. So I took collective taxi ($450) to bus station to ask. Some bus companies said 1:00p.m. or 2:00p.m departure. One people told me to find the company La Paloma. But I could not find it for 30 minutes. I returned to the international terminal to buy ticket ($4000) to Putre. But she said that bus only stopped at the road junction and I needed to walk 4km to Putre. I hoped I did not have mountain sickness.



Date 61 29 Dec 2008 Arica ~ Putre

I went to Jesus Statue on the small hill in the morning. I could see the harbour on the Pacific Ocean. The view was nice. I went to downtown in 21 de Majo street. It was cool on Sunday yesterday. Now it was hot as all shops were opened and it was really a city. The product was targeted at local people and some were for Bolivar and Peru. There were Chinese restaurant and grocery. They also sold instant cup noodle, 豆豉鯪魚和珠江僑牌生油.

I came back to hostel at 10:50a.m. I stored the luggage after checking and sent email. I set off for lunch at 12:00a.m. As dinner was too cheap ($2300) yesterday, I went to a better restaurant for lunch ($4300) that was bread + salad + carne + rice + juice. It was very delicious and full. I collected luggage from hostel at 1:00p.m. and walked(30 minutes) to bus station. I was totally wet as it was hot desert city.

The bus arrived at 2:30 and departed at 2:40 p.m. There were only two passengers in this double deck bus. It seemed that I chartered the bus and was a VIP. The first 20 minutes road was on the plain desert. The bus climbed uphill later and the speed could maintain 70~80km/hr as the road condition was good. I slept for a while and waked up later at 3500m.

The bus dropped me down at the road junction to Putre at 5:20p.m. I needed to walk 5km with my 23kg at 3800m. I hoped to finish within 1.5 hour. But I thought I would get a lift on the way. I met a truck and luckily to have a lift after 20 minutes walk. He dropped me down on the main road after 5 minutes.

I stayed in La Paloma Hostel ($7000) and asked several travel agents in the main street. I was surprised that I was the sole traveller today. Finally, I needed to charter a 2-day tour in "Tour Andino". The manager was sincerely to help me. The price was $120,000, super price. In fact, the price was the same for two people, 50% save! It included a four-wheel drive truck and a driver. The tour would visit Termas Jurasi, Chucuyo, Parinacota, Lago Chungara, Salar de Surire,...


Date 62 30 Dec 2008 Putre ~ Salar de Surire

I went to Tour Andino at 7:00a.m. A young boy opened the office at 7:10a.m. He was the driver as well as guide. We departed at 7:40a.m. under cloudy sky. It climbed to 4200m- pass within half hour. It was snowing and the ground was covered with fresh snow.

The first tourist point was local trap for llama. It was so cool that I needed to wear down jacket. The truck drove into the main road and changed into a small road later. We went into temperate grassland where I saw much more Alpaca, Viscuna & llama. They were wild animals and freedom to go anywhere in this protected area. I also saw some abandoned village. We went back to main road to Village Guallatini. There was a small chapel but no one was there.

I arrived at Salar de Surise at 1:00p.m. It supposed to be large. However, I saw it was not too great. We made registration at the park office. They said that it was closed from today until 5 Jan. How come! It was the only accommodation there and I needed to turn back today. I explained that I came from Hong Kong and requested them to give a special permission. The officer gave us permission after making a radio call. The accommodation was tidy and clean. I and my guide were the only persons tonight and the officer has left for holiday.

We started the tour to salt lake circle, mainly watching flamingoes. It was fascinating to see from far away. They would fly away when I moved closer. I could only take good photos far away. There was many viscuna too. The tour had several stop on the lakeside and back to park office after four hour. The attitude was about 4200m and I was some syndrome of mountain sickness. I had to take a rest before dinner. We could use the kitchen and prepare simple diner. It was complete silent outside.

Date 64 31 Dec 2008 Salar de Surire ~ Putre

I waked up at 7:00a.m. in the new year eve of 2008. We returned on the same road. The sunshine was very strong but it was cloudy in the surrounding mountains. It was temperate grassland along the road and the grass was short and small. The truck turned into a small road after crossing Guallatiri village and took a break near a little geyser.

We wanted to leave after a short break. However, the engine could not be started. We tried to push the truck to start and it was too heavy to move in 4300m. We hopelessly rested after 15 minutes effort. It was luckily that a police petrol car passed by and three police got off the car to offer help. The truck was easily moved by four people and the engine was started immediately.

We continued the winding road over many mountains. Mt. Parinacota was partly seen under the cloudy sky. Surrounding mountains were much more beautiful. I still could not see the Mt. Parinacota in the look-out point. We went to Lagunas Cotacotani after lunch. It consists of many small blue colour lakes. Our truck was hard to ride on the rough road and stop at the end of the road. We walked 15 minutes to another look out point. I needed to put extra effort in climbing a small knoll. The Mt.Parinacota (6350m)and Pomerape(6240m) could be seen in good weather. It was pity that the weather was cloudy. The guide told me that I walked along the lakeside and he went to take the car. I had walked for 20 minutes without meeting him and led astray. Finally, I used my common sense and followed the cycling track to meet my guide again.

We visited Parinacota village later and there was a little church that was nothing special. Las Cuevas was the last place. It was a cave that was home for people in 9500 years ago.

As I could not see the view of Volcano Parinacota, I booked the driver to go again tomorrow if the weather was fine. I stayed in Cali Hostel ($6000) which was better than La Paloma. Although it was cloudy in the last two days, it had not rained. The wild life was rich and the highlight were
Viscuna : fast runner ;
llama : slow walker ;
Alpaca : black and different from Peru and infinite many flamingoes.

Although the number of flamingoes was less than Kenya, I could see them in various places. They were very beautiful when they were flying.

I took dinner in an expansive restaurant which was only one still opening in the eve of 2009. The dinner ($11000) consisted of salad, llama steak and tea. Salad was quite good. The meat of llama was similar to beef.



Date 63 1 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama

I waked up at 6:30a.m. and the weather was fine. I waited the tour guide at 7:30a.m. and he turned up at 8:30a.m. But he said that he would not go. However, there was 6 people would go Parinacota. I could join them and chartered a bus to Arica in the evening. Parinacota trip was ($11000) and $5000 to Arica.

We set off the day tour at 9:30a.m. but the sun was disappeared after 20 minutes. I could see viscuna, llama & alpaca and arrived at the Chungara Lake at 11:30a.m. Although it was sunshine, I still could not see the Volcano Parinacota. I took some picture of flamingoes in the lake. We visited Parinacota village in the afternoon. It was hailstorm when I arrived at the village and everything was white while it was blue yesterday. The summit of Parinacota was seen on the way back. It was like 『一天有四季』.

I came back to Putre at 2:30p.m. and left at 4:30p.m. The van arrived at Arica international bus station at 7:00p.m. I brought the last bus ticket ( Tur bus $16200) to San Pedro de Acatama. Luggage was stored ($1000) in the bus station and walked (30 minutes) to downtown for dinner. Most restaurants were closed on New Year Eve. It was hard to find a local food stall for dinner. I ordered chicken soup set dinner and beef soup set($3400).

I walked back to bus station after dinner. But I was astray in night and had to ask local to find out the right direction to bus station. I arrived at 9:10p.m. and the bus departed at 9:30p.m. It was full and my seat was near the toilet.

Date 65 2 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama

I was awaken up in the bus at 3:40a.m. All passengers were required to get off the bus and luggage was checked. I was surprised there existed such a crazy thing that people travelling within their country needed to be checked in mid-night. In fact, the checking was not serious!

I arrived at Calama at 6:40a.m. It was more incredible that the bus had to wait until 8:00a.m. to go to San Pedro. Finally, I arrived at 11:00a.m.

San Petro was an oasis. I walked through the main street which was full of travel agents and restaurants. When I arrived at Hostal Eden Atacama, it was full today. I asked two more hostels and stayed in Hotel Licancabur. A single room cost $8000 with shared bathroom. The room was small with only one lamp. The hotel did provide electric converter so I had to buy one($2000).

I asked several agents to plan the activities in the following days and choose the "Cosmo Andino" agent.
(a) El Tatio Geyser $22500
(b) Altipano Lakes $32500
(c) Tovohill trek (5604m) $50,000

The total price was only $105,000 while ice climbing was pricey $100,000 in Grey Glacier and it was only 2 hours.

I had a lunch ( $4950 )in a decent restaurant. Laundry charge was $2500. I also brought some grape and apple. The price was slight higher than Santiago. However, the internet charge ($500 / half hour )was more expansive. But the speed was very slow and I only send 2 mails in 15 minutes. Ticket to Salta was $28,000.

I searched through San Pedro without finding a cheap restaurant. I brought a BBQ chicken ($2000) as dinner. I took a leisure walk after dinner. There were several agents offering 4-days-trip to Bolivar (US$ 135). However, Hong Kong people required visa to enter the Bolivar. The agent helped me to asked whether I could enter Bolivar tomorrow. Maybe, I needed to pay US100 as corruption fee to enter.

Date 66 3 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama

The tour bus picked me up at 7:15a.m. and the first stop was Laguna Chaxa which was a salt lake and the entrance fee was $2000. The altitude was 2800m and the main attraction was flamingoes. However, the number of them was less than Parinacota. They were not afraid of human so I could easily take photo. The breakfast was rich and full including coca tea, tea, coffee, bread, cheese,.. and various jam.

The second stop was a little village Camar at altitude 3200m. The main highlight was a chapel which had white-colored wall. The sky was blue with beautiful cloud. The scenery was fascinating. This stop was good for acclimatization.

The bus climbed uphill to 4200m. The land was covered with pale yellow colored grass which was short. The volcanoes were shadowed by cloudless blue sky. I paid $2000 as the entrance fee for the Laguna Miniques & Miscanti. I could see them once I passed through the entrance gate. They were as beautiful as heaven and I arrived at 11:50a.m.

I got off at Laguna Miscanti which was a salt lake with emerald blue colour water. The mountain Miscanti (>5000m) was just beside the lake. I walked from there to Laguna Miniques and took many photos on the way. I was impressed by such a stunning view that I had not seen before. The lunch was offered at the Laguna Miniques and it was the same standard.

We stopped at the town Tocanaco on return journey and was back to hotel at 5:00p.m. I went outside to find a budget restaurant to have dinner after a rest. It was difficult to find a set menu at $5000~6000. I brought a take-away fried chicken ($2000) to eat.

When I was searching the dinner, I came to the "Coloque Tour" agent. It had the 4-days tour ($US125) to Bolivar. However, I needed to entry visa. The tour manager said that some Hong Kong people could enter Bolivar without any problem. The possible entry fee might be US$ 100. Therefore, I booked the tour on 6~9 Jan 2009 which had 4 Germans and me.

I would climb Toco Hill (5604m) tomorrow. I had not hike for more than a week since the Pucon and felt a little bit 頹廢。I was sight-seeing in recent days and saw the traditional tourists instead of trekkers. I hoped it was better tomorrow.

Date 67 4 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama

The guide picked up at 7:15a.m. Beside me, there were 2 girls and one male. But we did not have too much conservation. The ladies were young and beautiful.

The four-wheel drive truck was new and drove along the road to Bolivar. We turned into small road near the boundary. The truck was winding uphill for another 30 minutes. We arrived the starting point (5200m) at 8:40a.m. I did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness as I took 2 dosages of diamox.

We set off at 8:50a.m. and I thought that it was not difficult as it was only 400m climb. But I was afraid of the altitude. The truck took me from 2400m to 5200m within an hour that I had not tried before.

The path was along gentle slope. There was snow crystal on the ground. I was the slowest one as usual. The guide was so kind as to take care of me from time to time. He told me that we had sufficient time and no need to hurry. I took rest for every 20~30 minutes. I could see the mountain of Bolivar. It was surprising that there was no snow in such a high altitude. It had only yellow colour grassland and gray colour clay. I felt boring in this scenery. The guide led us along the gentle slope. I was surprised that other people were walking so fast and did not have any syndrome of mountain sickness. But I had to take rest from time to time.

I reached the summit (5604m) at 10:40a.m. We celebrated together. They were very excited but I did not have any feeling. Although I reached the highest point since in South America, it was too easy and boring on the way. I recalled climbing the Volcano Lanin(3776m). I needed to wear crampon and ice-axe to climb screed slope, snowy slope to reach the summit( 12 hours ). The hiking experience was wonderful.

I went back to hotel at 1:10p.m. and felt some headache. It was because of the delayed syndrome of AMS. It was improved after rest. I went to bus company to change the ticket to Salta. However, there was no seat on 11 Jan. I get back the money at 85% discount and went to Pullman company to buy ticket ($38000) on 11 Jan. These two companies had the same departure time and date. But there prices had significant difference ($38000 & $28000).

The tour bus picked me up at 3:30p.m. to Moon & Dead Valley. The first stop was a look-out for seeing the folded mountain. I thought it was nothing special. The second stop was at dead valley. We walked toward the end of road and walked down along the sand dune. The view was very nice. The last stop was the Moon Valley which was descried as the moon surface. But I thought it was over exaggerated and waited until the sunset. The color turned golden yellow. However, the landscape on the Radicum in Jordan was much more beautiful. I went back to hotel at 9:00p.m. The tour (less than HK$100)was value for money.


Date 68 5 Jan 2009 San Petro de Atacama

The tour bus picked me up at 4:10a.m. with the same tour guide who was very hard working as he left me at 9:00p.m. and had to wake up at 3:00a.m. The bus needed to pick-up all passengers and the drive to the geyser was about 1.5 hour & 90km. We did nothing but slept.

Although it was freezing cool (1oC) outside the bus and sat uncomfortably, I slept until the bus stopped. We arrived at the entrance of Geyser Del Tatio at 6:00a.m. The tour guide prepared the passenger list for collecting entrance fee.

We took the early breakfast in the geyser. The tour provided a short explanation after the breakfast and I walked myself later. The geyser was only a few meter high and the colour was pale yellow. I thought it was monotonous and the Yellow Stone Country Part in USA was much better. I took the geyser bath in a primitive pool. The air temperature was about 1oC while water temperature was 37oC. The pool was small and jammed with a lot of people. It was meaningless to take early start (4:00a.m.). It was necessary only if watching sunrise.

We visited Cactus Valley on the way back. There was various shape of cactus and it was large. Some were 2 times higher than me. It was the first time to see such a large number of cacti.

I came back to hotel at 1:00p.m. and had a sleep after lunch. I sent mail at $250/15minutes and had hair cut ($3000) which was short and nice. I prayed that I would came into the Bolivar (US$ 100) tomorrow.