South America Trip D78-D90

http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/cshum2008/Aconcagua#

Date 78 15 Jan 2009 Mendoza

I waked up at 7:00a.m. and checked email. I left hostel at 8:45a.m. and arrived at the Hotel Huentala at 9:20a.m. Au said the guide would check our equipment at 10:00a.m. But she came at 11:00a.m.

We paid the trekking permit ($1500). I was back to hostel for a rest until 4:00p.m. when the guide checked our equipment. Most of my equipment was not up to standard. I had to rent :
1. Trouser : $US 20
2. Mitten : $US 25
3. Ice-axe : US$ 25
4. Double boot : US$ 70
5. Sleeping bag : US$ 95
6. Duffle bag : $US 25
7. Grove : $ 13 peso
Total $280 x 90% = $250US

Although the renting price was expansive, their service was very good. I tried several boots to find the suitable one. As the length of ice-axe was not suitable for me, they opened a new one for me.

I took dinner ( included in the package ) at the tallest building in Mendoza. The environment was good but the taste was not so good for $50.

We packed the equipment at night. I needed to distribute luggage to be stored in Mendoza, which would be carried by mule and which would be carried myself. I packed until 12:40a.m. to sleep. Beside me & Au, this expedition also included Carmen who was a Canadian lady. Carmen could speak English, France, Spanish & German and she was the translator between us & the guide.

Date 79 16 Jan 2009 Penitentes (2600m)

The breakfast was buffet style and very rich in the hotel. We went to central market to buy some snack and locker. The guide waited us at 11:00a.m. We set off after storing unnecessary luggage in the hotel. The pick-up mini-van was 19-seated bus carrying 4 of us only. I felt rather deluxe.

I arrived at Penetentes ( 2600m ) at 2:00p.m and stayed in the hotel Hostal Ayelen. This hotel was a decent one and the room was spacious. The dining room was very nice. Lunch was very delicious steak. I took a short afternoon sleep. We went outside at 5:00p.m. and crossed the Mendoza river to opposite side. However, there was a lot of thorn in the plant. We came back after 30 minutes. Dinner was taken at 8:30p.m. There were only a few clients tonight. It was very peaceful to sit in the common room.

Date 80 17 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)

Buffet break was very good and I ate a lot of fruit. A small van pick up at 10:00 a.m. We visited Punte del Inca firstly. It had been a geyser resort a long time ago and there was a train station at that time. I could see the train rail on the way. There were a lot of hawkers selling various stones.

We arrived at Horcones (2880m) which was the entrance of the Aconcagua National part at 11:00a.m. After registration, each was allocated a plastic bag for collecting rubbish.

We set off at 11:30a.m. It was not difficult in the gentle slop. We walked along the river bank in the valley and we were surrounded by high mountains. Each mountain had its shape and colour. We took lunch at 12:50a.m. after crossing river Horcones.

We continued at 1:30p.m. and it was cloudy and windy. We could see the top of Aconacgua in fine weather. The temperature was comfortable warm enough for walk and not too hot for sweating. Walk! Rest ! Walk! I arrived at Plaza de Confluence at 3:50p.m.

The camp site was very large and there was a lot of tents We stayed in the largeest dome which had 24 beds. There was welcoming afternoon tea once when we arrived at the campsite. The tea was richer than the lunch. I also met our mountaineering guide Litto. It was heavy rain in the evening and I thought snowing in the mountain. I stayed in the tent for writing diary.

Dinner was soap + chicken + desert and it was delicious. The temperature was freezing cool outside while it was warm in the sleeping bag (US$ 95). The sky was scattered a lot of stars in mid-night.

Date 81 18 Jan 2009 Confluencia (3320m)

I was surprised that some body came in the tent even in mid-night. I waked up at 7:00a.m. to wash. The tap water was frozen once it was dropped on the ground. I thought the water temperature was far below 0oC. There were many mules carrying the luggage of Chilean group (46 persons) to Plaza de Mule.

When I was packing the daypack, some water was dripping from the top of the tent. It was not raining outside and the water was come from the melting ice on the top. We started at 10:00a.m. to the Plaza de Francia. It was sunshine and gentle breeze. This weather was comfortable.

The path was easy to walk and I took picture of strange flowers. I could see the top of the Aconcagua after 2 hours. There were awesome mountains along the way. I arrived at the look out (4000m) at 1:50p.m. and was the last one as usual. The north face of Aconcagua was right in front of us. The glacier of the Aconcagua was shined by cloudiness sunlight. We had my lunch there.

It took one more hour to reach Plaza de Francia. Litto did not suggest us to go. He led us to see some ice cave and glacier. We returned from 3:00p.m. and took a lot of photo of flowers. We were back to the camp at 5:20p.m.

We met two innocent Canadian girls. They carried a 25 litre backpack without sleeping bag. They did not have guide and any background information of Aconcagua. It seemed that they were cheated by the agent. I had a shower in the toilet. Although it was primitive, it was better than nothing.

Date 82 19 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)

I packed up the pack at 6:30a.m. and put the large backpack to mule. Breakfast was taken at 7:30 a.m. and started at 7:50a.m. I was full of energy in the morning and had similar pace with others. The first part was downhill to a river and uphill after crossing the river.

Litto said that we walked toward the front mountain and turned right to uphill. We walked in a wide open valley and seemed a Gobi Desert. There was some ice on the top of the front mountain. Most surrounding mountains were red color. We came across several streams which were formed by melting glacier. But it was muddy and carried a lot of sediments.

The scenery was the same for the next two hour and we were separated into two groups. I was the solo group far behind them. The distance from the front seemed not to have any change. We turned right and passed by a moraine after 3 hours. I walked along dried river bed and had to cross over streams. The moraine was one by one. The temperature was rather hot even in such a high altitude (3500m). Finally, I arrived at a boulder to have lunch after 4 hours.

The gentle path was finished and the next path was steep climb(1000m). I started at 1:00p.m. The distance among two groups increased as time was going on. In fact, it was not too tough going up but it was demanding to go with their speed. They had finished their rest once I arrived at the resting place. It seemed that I did not take any rest. I decided to walk at my comfortable speed when they disappeared from my sight. I arrived at the Plaza de Mule at 5:00p.m. 9 hour after start with sun burn. I drank up 2.5 litres.

Plaza de Mule was the base camp. There were many companies setting camp there. Almost all space was filled up by tents. Some were large enough for 8 people. Some were dining tents while some were kitchens. I passed through several camps to reach the Aconcagua Trek Camp. We were allocated a 8-people tent. I took dinner at 7:30p.m. and it was hailstorm at that time.

Date 83 20 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)

It was a rest day today. I slept until 9:00a.m. The river rear our tent was frozen. It was freezing cool to brush and wash using ice water. We walked around to visit other tents. Some was for shower (US$ 10). Some provided satellite phone (US$ 2 / min) & internet (US$ 2 / 15 min.). Plaza de Mule seemed to be a village. I went to consult the doctor but he advised us to come again with the permit. We back to tent at 11:00p.m.

Lunch was taken at 1:30 p.m. We went to the only hotel there which was about 30 minutes walk. We passed through some interest ice-formation which was called Penitentes. It was carved by gusty wind.

The hotel was very comfortable. Dormitory cost $US 82 full board a night. Carmen took a shower (US$ 10) there. Internet only charged $US 5 per 15minutes. We returned at 5:00p.m. to consult doctor. My ocean reading was only 74 which was lower than the requirement (80). Doctor suggested me to drink 5 litre of water each day!!

I took a rest before dinner. I drank 4 cups of juice, 6 cups of tea & 2 soaps. I thought it had 3 litres. So I required to go to toilet many times. The toilet was in the other far end of the base camp. We needed to get the key from our tent and walked about 3 minutes on rocky road. It was a box containing the dirty matters and would be cleared & carried away by helicopter. In fact, helicopter did the clearing on each morning.

The scenery was fascinating today. There was a snowy mountain hanging around. The sky was blue scattered with white cloud. Four seasons happened in a day. The golden yellow sunset light shining on the white snowy surface was impressive.

Date 84 21 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m) ~ Canadian Camp (5000m)

It was a load carrying day and would be come back to base camp at night. It was a matter of acclimatization program (walk high and stay low).We set off at 10:30 a.m. to Canadian Camp and passed through Penitentes near our tent. We climbed up along steep slope in the beginning and the weather was fine. I could see the top of Aconcagua and walked slowly and slowly. I was higher than the background snowy mountain gradually. We took a rest near some boulders.

We started again after the rest. I saw many groups of people descending from the slope. Some were going up. The view was grandeur. I continued to hike up in a zigzag way. Au & Carmen sight were disappearing from me gradually. Anyway, I walked according to my own speed. The altitude was 4800m. I could not catch up with them. I needed to take diamox on > 3000m previously. I had not taken any this time even carrying such a heavy in high altitude. I took rest for every 10 minutes, sometimes for 20 steps or even 10 steps! When I climbed over a very steep slope and really needed to sit down to have a longer rest and ate food to recover.

I started solo and lonely again at 2:00p.m. I saw someone from the right hill greeting with me. He was my guide Litto. He had already arrived at Canadian Camp(4850m) half- hour before and told me that 10 more minutes to go there. I unloaded commune food once I arrived at the Canadian Camp. There was some fresh snow on the ground and was very windy. A lot of tents ( mostly was Mountain Hardwear ) were erected there.

Litto said we continued to walk higher to a boulder(5000m)on the opposite slope. I did not have any strength. Anyway, I carried on 5 minutes after they started. I saw they reached the boulder at 3:00p.m. and I was still struggling on the snowy slope. The weather was changed from sunny, cloudy and snowing. When I reached the boulder, they continued to go higher. I could only see their shadow in the heavy snow. I decided to turn back in such a weather condition and thought that 5000m was enough for acclimatization.

Although I was descending, I had to pay extra attention on each step. The double boot was not easy to maneuver. It made my foot hurt in the surface as well as in the ankle. I was back to Canadian Camp within half hour and saw someone took fresh ice from the penitentes. The visibility was extremely low that I could only see only few steps in the front. I walked down slowly & slowly. I could still see people walking with their full load in such a bad weather.

I was back to the boulder at 3:50p.m. and continued going down without stop. I could not see the basecamp as it was misty and snowing. There was many branch of path. I just went down with common sense and could hardly see base camp when strong wind blew out the mist.

I choose a steep path straight down in another junction. I felt something wrong after 10 minutes and had some hesitation as I could not see base camp. Luckily, a guide passed by me and went down. I just followed him and got back to correct road to base camp at 4:50p.m.

I felt very cool as I wore fleece and gortex jacket only. I changed into down jacket and drank some hot water. Au & Carmen come back after a while and we took afternoon tea together. I had some dizziness without appetite and just drinking & drinking.

I took a rest and dinner was at 6:30p.m. Dinner was delicious steak and I drank a lot of water. So I had to go toilet many times until tomorrow.

Date 85 22 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)

I went to body check after breakfast and the reading was only 76. Doctor said 80 was the passing number. I would go no matter irrespective to the reading. I was back to tent for packing the luggage which was very heavy. I thought that it was about 15kg.

I wanted to go to hotel after lunch but it was heavy snowing. I could do nothing but waited in the tent. Wait! Sleep! Seat! Carmen said she would go to the hotel and meet her friend and said that she enjoyed this weather as it was similar to Toronto.

A German came alone at 5:30p.m. He carried about 43kg equipment and planned to climb the summit alone without guide. He stayed in the dormitory $US 10.

I wanted to take shower in the base camp at 6:00p.m. but it was no hot water as no sunshine in the afternoon. I was frustrated as I had not taken shower for 5 days.

The snow stopped at 6:30p.m. after 5 hours snowing. The sky changed into blue again and the scenery was very beautiful. It was too late to go to hotel for shower. I had stayed in the base camp for 4 days. Each day appeared distinctive four seasons. Food and scenery were very good. I had not seen any oriental people.

I made a satellite phone ($US2 /min) to home. Dinner was soap + steak + desert. There had everything in the base camp. Everyone had the same objective: Summit (6962m). The body condition had strengthened daily. I hoped to have breakthrough myself.

Date 86 23 Jan 2009 Canadian Camp (4900m)

We checked the reading in the morning. I was 81, Au was 84 and Carmen was 85. I took a shower before setting off. Unnecessary items were stored in the Plaza de Mule. I thought my backpack was about 16kg. We set off at 11:50a.m. and the weather was good. The distance among us was not great as each was carrying heavy load.

We walked slowly as heavy load was demanding. We took a 15 min. break at 1:00p.m. I set off again and felt dazzle. The breathing was short and quick. The AMS was coming.

We took another break at 2:30p.m. and Carmen said she would hire a porter tomorrow and suggested we shared the price. I thought it would be a good idea. I used every once of energy and rested many times to climb the last slope to reach the Canadian Camp.

Au had already settled everything and rested in the tent. I had headache and without appetite. I just drank some tea and took a rest. Dinner was canned soap and spaghetti. Litto was most hard working. He got ice for melting water once he arrived at the camp. He also prepared tea, dinner and served us even in heavy snowing. The snowing was very heavy and I was full of snow even in a short toilet time.

Date 87 24 Jan 2009 Nido de Condores (5500m)

I felt better after a night. The breakfast was very simple. Three porters arrived at 10:00a.m. Two were taking care of tents and one was for our personal equipment.

We set off at 10:50a.m. after taking group photo. It was still heavy even unloading sleeping bag, sleeping sheet and crampon. I walked in the slope covered with fresh snow. The weather was fine and I required to add sun cream every hour as snow reflection was strong.

I took a short break at 12:00a.m. and walked zigzag uphill. My pace was slowly and left behind others. I caught up them at 2:00p.m. and they finished their break and set off again. I decided to take a break and walked myself.

The camp was right in front of me. But the distance seemed that it did not chang any after walking for a long time. The snow was thicker when I walked higher. The snow changed from soft to hard. It meant that the temperature was much lower. I thought the temperature was -5~-10oC.

I saw Litto at 3:30p.m. and he pointed the location of our tents. It was very tough to arrive at my tent after 4 hr 40 min. walk. I unloaded my pack, drank some water, ate some food and took rest. They went to take photo but I really did not have energy to go. I waked up to toilet and slept again. The headache did not improve.

Nido de Condores had many tents and seemed to be a village. The ground was covered by a layer of soft snow. The temperature was low even with sunshine as it was windy. However, the scenery was stunning especially the sunset. We opened the window of our tent to appreciate the mountain. I felt the real mountaineering in there.

Date 88 25 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)

It was only 300m climb today and we set off at 11:50a.m. As there was heavy snow and icy surface, we wore crampon to walk. I zigzag walked even on the gentle slope in order to save energy. Their shadow was disappeared quickly in my sight. The camp II seemed did not change.

I achieved the height 5650m at 13:30 and had 200m more climb. It was not too bad. But the pacing was extremely slow in later part. I was passed over by other groups and had to stop for every 10 minutes, 5 minutes, 30 steps, 20 steps and 10steps... I arrived at German shelter at 15:50. Other guide told me that German Camp was 20 minutes away. But I was dazzle and very weak.

I set off at 4:00p.m. and saw someone was walking down without backpack. I did not know whose was Litto or not. I met him 10 minutes later. He offered help for taking my backpack. I walked easier without backpack but it was still demanding. I crawled step by step to camp III at 4:30p.m. and I was hardly to stand. It took me 4.5 hours to climb 300m height. Although slower than others (3 hours), I had achieved 5870m which was the new height for me with loading.

I had no appetite in dinner. I had no confidence in summit tomorrow and had to take rest. I hoped they could achieve summit!

Date 89 26 Jan 2009 German Camp (5870m)

It was freezing cool night. I needed to wear down jacket, glove and hat for warming up the body for a moment before going out to toilet. I also wore the boot to go. It was hard to move and just a few steps away from the tent. I needed to drink some water every times. The water vapour of our breathing was condensed as snow inside the tent so I was full of snow when I waked up every time.

The gusty wind liked typhoon signal no.8 and never stop at night. Although I did not eat anything and I did no feel hungry and had a little bit headache.

They set off at 7:00a.m. and I did not have strength to crawl outside to say hello. I hoped that they would success. I left alone in the tent and did nothing but sleeping.

Carmen was turned back from 6200m at 12:00a.m. She took rest in tent. Au had achieved the summit after 7 hours walk and returned 3 hr later. He was back to tent at 5:00p.m.

I stayed inside the tent whole day. I supposed I could have summit trial tomorrow. But Litto said that he provided one chance only. I was really disappointed as I had used much money and time for the preparation. Anyway, it was the destiny of life.

Date 90 27 Jan 2009 Plaza de Mule (4200m)

We set off to descend at 10:30a.m. and would be back to base camp. The time required to climb up were as follows:
Base Camp to Camp I 3.5 hr
Camp I to Camp II 5 hr
Camp II to Camp III 4.5 hr

The weather was fine in the morning and I just walked downhill. I could not see them right after setting off. I met Litto after 1.5 hr. He told me that the game was over and he had called helicopter to take me down. I was really angry. Although I felt tired, I could walk myself with food and water. I continued ignoring his advice. I arrived at Camp II after 2 more hours. It was not so demanding and just walk , rest & drink.

I went to base camp from Camp II without stopping at Camp I. The direct drop 500m was too demanding and tiring as the body was very weak. Finally, I was back to base camp at 3:30p.m. 5 hours after start.

I met the German guy in the late afternoon. He had achieved the summit from Camp II (2:30a.m. start) to summit and back to base camp at 5:30p.m. It was incredible and amazing!